A future traveller reflects: “The Galápagos Islands? Sure! That's where I'll spot giant tortoises, marine iguanas, and Darwin’s celebrated finches". These are indeed some of the iconic wildlife species. Yet one of the most frequent—and often most surprising—wildlife encounters in the archipelago takes place underwater:  Sharks.

“Sharks? I’m not sure I like the sound of that!” is a common reaction when the idea of swimming alongside them is raised. The concern is understandable, but largely misplaced. Sharks in the Galápagos are notably calm and uninterested in human contact. For many first-time snorkelers, their initial encounter with a Galápagos shark becomes one of the most vivid and memorable moments of the trip. The key is to quiet the reflexive fear shaped by decades of sensational films and headlines, and to observe these animals with composure. After a sighting or two, most visitors find their apprehension replaced by confidence—and even a touch of swagger—when another shark glides past.

The very common white-tip reef shark

This confidence should never translate into pursuit or interference. As with all wildlife interactions in the Galápagos, National Park regulations require visitors to keep a minimum distance of two metres (just over six feet) from any animal. Move closer than that, and a shark will almost certainly swim away. It has no interest in confrontation and prefers not to be disturbed.

The species you are most likely to see while snorkeling is the white-tipped reef shark. Shy and relatively small—rarely longer than about 1.6 metres (5 feet 2 inches)—these sharks typically rest on the seabed during daylight hours and hunt at night, feeding on fish, octopus, and crustaceans.

With a bit more luck, you may glimpse the unmistakable silhouette of a hammerhead shark. While they are most commonly associated with the remote northern islands of Darwin and Wolf, destinations primarily visited by dedicated scuba divers, hammerheads do range throughout the archipelago. In the Galápagos, they can reach lengths of up to five metres (around 15 feet) and are often seen schooling in impressive numbers.

We don't think we need to tell you what kind of shark this is!

And if fortune truly smiles on you, there is the possibility—slim but thrilling—of encountering a whale shark. The largest fish in the ocean, reaching up to 12 metres (40 feet), this gentle giant feeds exclusively on plankton and has no teeth to speak of. Though most frequently observed near Darwin and Wolf Islands, occasional sightings do occur elsewhere, even for travellers not on scuba-focused itineraries. Hope springs eternal.

A snorkeling encounter with a whale shark is rare - but among the most thrilling experience you can have in Galapagos

Statistics further underscore just how unfounded the fear really is. Over nearly six decades, only nine shark-bite incidents have been recorded in the Galápagos. Just three involved snorkelers (remember, on average, there must be up to 1,000 snorkelers in the water, ever day of the year); the remainder were linked to surfing or fishing activities. Quite simply, you are far more likely to be bitten by a neighbourhood dog than by a shark in these waters.

So relax, take it in, and enjoy the experience. When you return home, you can confidently say—truthfully—that you swam with sharks in the Galápagos and loved every moment of it.

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The seasonal flooding of the Okavango Delta is one of Africa’s most distinctive hydrological phenomena (this phenomena is behind the Delta’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site). Unlike most floodplains, the Delta’s waters do not originate locally but arrive from the Angolan Highlands, where summer rains fall between November and March. These rains feed the Cubango and Cuito Rivers, which combine to form the Okavango River and begin a slow, gravity-driven journey of more than 1,000 kilometres (600 miles) southward. Because the Delta is an inland basin with no outlet to the sea, the water spreads outward across a vast fan of channels, lagoons, and floodplains, with much of it ultimately lost to evaporation and transpiration rather than runoff.

The timing of the flood is counter-intuitive. Although rainfall peaks in Angola during the southern summer (Nov-Mar), the floodwaters typically reach the upper Delta in April and progress south and west through May, June, and July, often peaking in August. This delay is due to the extremely gentle gradient of the river system and the absorptive capacity of the Delta’s sands and vegetation. As the dry season tightens its grip on Botswana, the Delta paradoxically becomes wetter, transforming arid grasslands into a mosaic of navigable waterways precisely when surrounding regions are at their driest.

For wildlife, this seasonal inundation is the engine that drives abundance and movement. As waters rise, fish populations explode in newly flooded areas, attracting birds in extraordinary numbers, from herons and storks to African fish eagles. Large mammals respond dynamically: elephants, buffalo, red lechwe, and sitatunga concentrate along flood edges where grazing is lush and permanent water is assured, while predators such as lions and wild dogs exploit these predictable movements. The flood effectively redistributes life across the Delta, creating shifting zones of productivity that sustain one of Africa’s richest wetland ecosystems.

For visitors, the flood cycle profoundly shapes the experience, and April–May offers particular advantages. This period marks the early arrival of the waters, when channels begin to open but the landscape remains vividly green from the recent rains. Wildlife is widely dispersed and in excellent condition, birdlife is at its most diverse with both resident and late-departing migrants present, and temperatures are more moderate than in the deep winter months. Importantly, visitor numbers are typically lower than during the peak June–August season, allowing for a more tranquil, exploratory experience that combines early mokoro access with outstanding photographic light, fresh vegetation, and a palpable sense of seasonal transition within the Delta.

CNH Tours has partnered with Dr. Karen Ross, a 30 year Okavango Delta wildlife conservation veteran, to design the ideal trip to this region.  Karen was instrumental in assembling the nomination for UNESCO World Heritage status, and has been called the “Champion of the Okavango” by the National Geographic magazine.  Karen has been leading our tours since we first started offering them in 2022.  We run one or two trips a year to this magnificent part of the world - get all the information here.  

Are you interested in joining us on this trip?
Our Okavango-Kalahari trips tend sell out quite quickly.  If you would like to be among the first to be informed when we publish the details of our upcoming trips and open them up for bookings, sign up to our "keep me posted" list.   

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The Panama Hat: An Ecuadorian Craft with Deep Cultural Roots

Despite its name, the Panama hat is not Panamanian at all. It originates in Ecuador, where it has been woven for centuries from the finely processed fibers of the toquilla palm (Carludovica palmata). The misnomer arose in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when these hats were exported via Panama and worn by travelers, canal workers, and public figures passing through the isthmus. Over time, the name stuck, obscuring the hat’s true geographic and cultural origins.

toquilla palm (Carludovica palmata)

The craft reached its highest refinement along Ecuador’s coast and highlands, particularly in towns where weaving knowledge has traditionally been passed down through families. This continuity of skill, technique, and cultural meaning was formally recognized in 2012, when UNESCO inscribed traditional toquilla straw hat weaving on its UNESCO Representative List under the Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The designation underscores that the value of the Panama hat lies not only in the finished object, but in the living traditions, social practices, and artisanal knowledge behind it.

For travelers heading to the Galápagos, the Panama hat is more than a practical sun-protection accessory. It is a tangible link to mainland Ecuadorian culture, reflecting the same themes of stewardship, patience, and respect for natural materials that underpin conservation efforts in the islands themselves.  If you plan on bringing one to the islands and wearing it on your excursions - be careful it won't blow away in the wind! 

How to Tell the Difference in Quality

Quality in a Panama hat is determined by craftsmanship rather than branding. The most important indicators include:

• Weave fineness: Higher-quality hats have a tighter, more uniform weave. When held up to the light, a fine hat will show small, evenly spaced patterns with no visible gaps or irregularities.

• Flexibility and finish: A well-made hat should feel supple, not brittle, and should return to shape after gentle bending. The surface should be smooth, without stray fibers or rough spots.

• Time invested: Superior hats can take weeks or even months to weave, often completed in humid conditions to prevent the fibers from breaking. This time commitment is directly reflected in quality and price.

• Origin transparency: Reputable sellers can usually explain where and how the hat was made, and by whom. Mass-produced “Panama-style” hats woven elsewhere lack both the refinement and cultural lineage of authentic Ecuadorian pieces.

Weave styles - what do they indicate?

The Circular Center (“Roseta”)

A perfectly circular center, often with a subtle spiral pattern, indicates a hat that was hand-woven from the crown outward. This center point is called the roseta. In traditional Ecuadorian practice, the weaver begins at the very top of the crown and works slowly outward and downward, shaping the crown and later extending the brim as a continuous weave.

This method is labor-intensive and technically demanding. The finer and more symmetrical the roseta, the more skilled the weaver. High-grade Panama hats—especially those recognized under Ecuador’s traditional toquilla straw weaving—will almost always show this clean, circular center.

Very fine weave with a perfectly circular center (left) is the mark of a high quality hat.  The artisan will have spent weeks working on that hat.   The coarsely woven hat on the right still looks marvelous - but is a different piece of work altogether.

The “Ring” or Embossed Band

When you see a distinct ring or embossed-looking band around the top of the crown, it usually means one of two things:

1. The hat was woven starting from the brim upward, with the crown finished last and closed off with a visible join; or

2. The hat was machine-blocked or partially machine-woven, with pressure applied during shaping that leaves a circular compression mark.

In both cases, the ring reflects a shortcut in construction. While such hats can still be serviceable and attractive, they are generally less refined, quicker to produce, and not considered top-tier examples of the craft.

Why This Matters for Purists

For hat aficionados,

• A clean, circular roseta signals traditional technique, higher craftsmanship, and closer alignment with the practices recognized by UNESCO under its Intangible Cultural Heritage Convention.

• A visible ring or embossed band suggests industrial assistance or simplified weaving, often associated with lower prices and export-market hats.

In practical terms, if you turn a Panama hat upside down and see a tight, elegant spiral at the crown, you are looking at the hallmark of a serious handwoven hat. If you see a flat ring or abrupt transition, you are looking at a different—and usually lesser—method of construction.

This is one of the few quality tests that can be done instantly, without tools, labels, or expert jargon—useful knowledge for any discerning traveler.

Here is an overview of typical price ranges for Panama hats in Ecuador, based on reported retail and artisan pricing (all in USD unless otherwise noted):

1. Lower-quality / mass-produced toquilla hats
• Hats made quickly or with looser weave can be inexpensive, often US$15–$30 when sourced in local markets. 

2. Standard artisan Panama hats
• Many hand-woven traditional toquilla hats you’ll see in markets, shops, or atelier boutiques in Ecuador are priced roughly $125–US$170 for everyday quality weaves. 

3. Mid-to-high grade artisan hats
• Better quality hand-woven pieces with tighter weave and better finishing often range from US$200–$500 in Ecuador retail outlets. 

4. Premium and superfine Panama hats
• Hats woven with extremely fine straw and high stitch counts—sometimes taking months to complete—can sell for several thousand dollars or more. Reports indicate that exceptionally fine pieces can go as high as US$7,000 or beyond (some individual collectors even mention prices well above this for museum-quality pieces). 

Notes for Visitors

• Quality strongly influences price: tighter weave, more stitches per square inch, and smoother finish all drive costs upward.

• Haggle gently at artisan markets, especially outside formal stores; prices aren’t fixed.

• Very low prices often mean machine-assisted or low-grade weaves that lack the finesse of traditional craftsmanship.

This range gives you a sense of what to expect as you browse Panama hat vendors in Ecuador—and how pricing correlates with technique and heritage craftsmanship.

MEN:  It's time to dump the unflattering baseball cap! (women look great in them too!)

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TAPATI:  Be part of the biggest cultural festival in the Eastern Pacific

CNH Tours’ yearly trip to Chile’s Easter Island (known locally as Rapa Nui) has you spend more time on Easter Island that most other travel companies offer. 

Why? 

Because we time our trips to coincide with the annual Tapati festival – the largest cultural event in the eastern Pacific.  Doing so allows our guests to enjoy an enriching mix of  archaeological wonders that speak to the island’s mysterious past with the lively and colourful manifestations of island life that illustrate the present day vigour of Easter Island native culture.

We’ve all heard about the famous Moai statues that dot the island – and these sentinels are what draws over 100,000 visitors to this remote island every year.  But few have heard about the Tapati festival.

What is the Tapati festival?

The Tapati Rapa Nui festival is an annual cultural celebration held each February on Easter Island. Rather than a spectacle designed primarily for visitors, Tapati functions first and foremost as a community event—one in which islanders actively reaffirm their language, customs, and shared history. For travelers considering a visit, the festival offers a concentrated window into contemporary Rapa Nui life, rooted firmly in tradition rather than performance for its own sake.

At its core, Tapati is about cultural continuity. Events revolve around ancestral practices such as traditional dance, chanting, body painting, stone lifting, and canoeing, many of which draw directly from pre-contact Polynesian traditions. These activities are not reconstructed abstractions; they are taught within families and community groups, often with elders guiding younger generations. In this sense, the festival reflects an ongoing, lived effort by Rapa Nui people to preserve and transmit their heritage in the face of globalization and historical disruption.

One of the most striking aspects of Tapati is the scale of local participation. Large segments of the island’s population take part, often organized into teams supporting competing candidates for festival queen—though the title itself is secondary to the collective effort involved. Preparation can span weeks or months, with families contributing time, skills, and resources. For visitors, this means encountering a community deeply engaged with itself, rather than observing a small group performing on behalf of the rest.

For travelers who value cultural context and authenticity, visiting Easter Island during Tapati can be rewarding, provided expectations are calibrated appropriately. Accommodations book early, daily life adjusts to the festival rhythm, and not every event is staged with tourists in mind. That said, Tapati offers a rare opportunity to witness how cultural preservation operates at a community scale—less as a museum piece, and more as an active, participatory process shaping island identity today.

Do you want to experience it for yourself?

CNH Tours organizes an annual trip to Easter Island, having you spend 5 days there in early February.  Our trips include a few days in and around the country’s capital, Santiago, taking in cultural highlights (including some wine tasting of course).  Our trips also offer fascinating extension options to those keen on getting a bigger taste of this diverse country.  These include a few days in the Atacama (the world’s driest desert – in the northern extremes of the country) and a few days in Patagonia – in Chile’s southern extremes.

Our 2026 trip sold out a long time ago… but we will soon be publishing the details of our February 2027 trip.  Sign up below and be among the first to be informed of the trip once the details have been published and we open it up for bookings. 

KEEP ME POSTED ON YOUR FUTURE EASTER ISLAND TRIPS

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Today, December 6th, marks the end of the "Fiestas de Quito" (Quito festivals/parties). The Fiestas celebrate the foundation of the city by Spanish colonists back on 6 December 1534.  That's almost half a millennium ago! 

Quito, the capital of Ecuador, holds the distinction of being one of the very first cities declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. Its historic center is considered one of the best-preserved in the Americas, a compact maze of plazas, steep streets, and colonial buildings framed by Andean peaks. For travelers passing through on the way to the Galápagos or into the highlands—Quito offers a rare opportunity to step into layers of history without straying far from modern comforts.  We often say that Quito is the prettiest capital city in all of South America.  

The heart of the UNESCO area is the Centro Histórico, anchored by the Plaza Grande. Here, elegant arcades, government palaces, and the gleaming white cathedral form a centuries-old civic hub. A short walk away, masterpieces like the Church of La Compañía de Jesús showcase the astonishing Quito School of Art, where European baroque techniques blended with Indigenous craftsmanship. For a quick but rich visit, even a single hour wandering these streets leaves an impression of cultural fusion and architectural sophistication.

Quito’s heritage also includes living traditions. Indigenous markets, family-run bakeries, and long-established cafés give the historic center its rhythm, and you’ll likely see locals filling plazas at all hours. If you're passing through, consider timing your visit for late afternoon, when the golden light sharpens the details of carved facades and the city’s hills glow. Museums such as Casa del Alabado or the City Museum provide insightful context without requiring a long time commitment.

Because Quito sits at 2,850 meters, visitors should take things a little slower—perfect for a leisurely stroll or a relaxed meal overlooking the skyline. For a panoramic perspective of the UNESCO zone, ride the TelefériQo or head up to El Panecillo, where the winged Virgin statue overlooks the old city. Even with limited time, Quito rewards curiosity: its blend of history, culture, and dramatic Andean scenery makes even a brief stop memorable.

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Galápagos in December: Warm Seas, Wildlife Surprises, and Smooth Sailing

December is a wonderful time to visit the Galápagos - it feels like spring!  The month marks the gentle transition from the cooler, drier and generally more overcast months of the "garua" season into the warm-season rhythm. Days are pleasantly warm, evenings are mild, and the possibility of an occasional light shower brings a fresh, tropical feel without getting in the way of your adventures.

At sea, conditions tend to settle nicely. Winds ease, the ocean calms, and chop is less frequent.  The water also begins to warm, making snorkeling a joy—clear conditions, comfortable temperatures, and plenty happening below the surface.

Wildlife takes its cue from the changing season. Sea turtles begin their courtship rituals in shallow bays, giant tortoise hatchlings may be emerging in the highlands, and many birds shift into more active phases of their breeding cycles. Whether you’re on deck watching frigatebirds soar or slipping into the water beside a curious sea lion, December brings a sense of renewed energy to the archipelago.

Do come prepared for the strong equatorial sun—hats and sunscreen are essential—and a light rain jacket is handy for those occasional passing showers. But otherwise, December offers a wonderfully balanced blend of comfortable weather, lively wildlife, and great conditions for a ship-based exploration.

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We estimate that on average, somewhere around 1,000,000 pictures are taken in Galapagos every day.   We also bet that of these, 995,000 will be forever relegated to the jumble pile of pictures piling up in the memory chip recesses of cell phones.  

It's far too easy to snap away, all day long.  It demands a lot more discipline to curate those pictures once you've collected them. 

But curating can be a lot easier if the raw material with which you are working, the pictures you've taken, are already mostly good ones.   

Quite a few Galapagos-bound people are thinking ahead, wondering how they should prepare themselves to improve the odds of capturing wonderful images.  To help with that, we've put together a short 2-page document entitled: 

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

You'll find advice from seasoned professional photographers, both Galapagos residents and visitors.   

If you're a very passionate photographer, considering joining our dedicated 15 day photography trip with internationally-acclaimed and award-winning Galapagos photographer Tui De Roy. 

MORE PHOTOGRAPHY TRIP INFO HERE.

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Our Okavango-Kalahari trip is quite popular.  The 16 spaces on this intimate trip typically sell out quite quickly. Our 2025 trip sold out 10 days after we opened it up for bookings.  Our 2026 trips (2 of them) sold out within  5 days and 21 days respectively. 

Our April 2027 trip was opened up for bookings on the 15th of October (2 weeks ago) and 10 spaces have already been booked, leaving only 6 available spaces.  

Why is this trip so popular?  Here are some of the reasons:

1) It's designed AND led by Dr. Karen Ross - "The Champion of the Okavango" according to one National Geographic article.  Karen did her Ph.D. in wildlife ecology and spent 30 years of her life working on conservation issues in the Okavango.  You could hardly find anyone more qualified to design and join you on this trip. 

2) Small group:  The three lodges we use in Botswana (Okavango panhandle, Okavango delta, northern Kalahari) cater to 16 people only. Your time in these unique ecosystems will be very intimate.  You will most often see no other safari vehicle but your own as you explore remote nooks and crannies of expansive landscapes, on the lookout for all kinds of wildlife.  

3) No cutting corners on comfort:  We've chosen to work with the most comfortable safari lodges in Botswana, ensuring that after a long day out on game drives, you'll have a very comfortable home to return to and you'll enjoy wonderful meals.   

4) Four UNESCO World Heritage sites:  We worked to include four such sites in your itinerary:

• Cape Floral Region Protected Areas around Cape Town, South Africa
• Mosi-oa-Tunya/Victoria Falls, in Zimbabwe
• Tsodilo Hills in Botswana
• Okavango Delta in Botswana

Each has been recognized by the international community for their outstanding natural and/or cultural heritage considered of importance to all of humanity.  If you care to arrive a day early, you can also include Robben Island World Heritage site in Cape Town - where Nelson Mandela spent many years incarcerated. 

See all the details here and book your trip here if you'd like to join us in 2027. 

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HOW TO PLAN FOR A SHIP-BASED VISIT TO GALAPAGOS?

Thinking about a ship-based visit to the Galapagos islands? We firmly believe (along with just about all other people who have done both a ship-based and a land-based visit) that this is a much superior way to expose yourself to the best of what Galapagos is world famous for.  

On-line searches for a good ship-based experience typically result in an overwhelming amount of conflicting and confusing results ("I'm absolutely overwhelmed" are typically among the first words we receive from people reaching out to us!).   Before you start your search, we suggest you consider the following criteria.  Try to identify your preferences, and with that in hand, you can start looking around, and compare options. 

1) Your budget. Prices range from about $500 /person/day to $1,500/person per day (more if you absolutely must). You generally get what you pay for (on-board service, guide quality, food, space etc..), with some exceptions - but remember, while everyone likes luxury, Galapagos is about the off-ship experience.   You can have just as wonderful an off-ship experience at $500 / day as you would at $1,500 / day.  Something to consider.

2) Cruise length:  How many days on board?  A standard cruise is 7 nights / 8 days on board. That gives the ship ample time to carry out a more adventurous journey, straying further away from port / towns.   Remember, an “8 day” itinerary consists of only 6 full days at sea. You typically embark early in the afternoon, giving you time for 1 activity on day 1, and disembark by 8 or 9AM on the last day.  Some ships program activities early on the last day (before disembarkation at the airport), some don’t. 

3) Itinerary quality:  Is your longer itinerary interrupted by the ship having to return to port to pick up / drop off passengers on shorter segments, or is it uninterrupted, allowing the ship to venture further out?   Does the itinerary have “filler” periods, with “whale watching” as an activity for an entire morning or afternoon as it sails to its next destination?  Does it have you visiting towns too frequently (presuming you didn’t go on an expedition cruise to spend time in towns)? See our detailed article on how to identify a good Galapagos ship itinerary.

4) Time of year:  Hot / sunny season is from Jan – April.  Seas tend to be calmer, warmer, vegetation greens up due to occasional short-lived downpours.  Can be oppressively hot for some – but getting in the water is more welcoming.  Cooler / cloudier (garua) season: June – November.  Seas can be choppier, they are cooler, and greater predominance of overcast skies with occasional fine mists, especially in the mornings / afternoons.  Those not into hot temperatures may prefer.  Wildlife is great all year long.

5) Ship size:  Most ships carry 20 or fewer guests.  These ships will make for a more intimate experience, not imposing themselves on the landscape, and being more versatile in getting guests off/on board, more easily making the best of unexpected situations.  The largest allowable ships (100 guests – about 4-5 of them), will ride the chop better of course.  They tend to be all in the luxury category. 

6) Guide to Guest ratio: National Park rules require that no more than 16 guests accompany a certified naturalist guide.  For this reason, many ships carry 16 guests, for a 16:1 guest to guide ratio.  Of course, a smaller ratio means you'll have a more personalized / intimate / versatile relationship with your naturalist guides.  For this reason, some ships will have 2 guides on a 16 passenger ship, for an 8:1 ratio of guests to guides, and 20 passenger ships will usually carry 2 guides, for a 10:1 guest to guide ratio.  Smaller ships carrying 12 or 14 guests will typically have 1 guide, for 12:1 or 14:1 guest to guide ratio. 

6) Ship reputation: While the overall quality of service has improved tremendously since we first started helping people organize their Galapagos trips 26 years ago, it’s still a good idea to carry out your due diligence before making a final decision on a ship.  Ask around... ask us, we'd be happy to help. 

We hope this helps getting you started - we are here to help you along with you decision making. 

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We're running 2 trips in 2026 and they are nearly sold out (2 spaces our our May trip, and 4 on our July trip remain).  Our 2027 trips were just opened up for bookings.   

PHOTO/ART ZEN TOURS: All the info and booking 

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CNH Tours offers a variety of options for visiting the most accessible northerly point on the planet - the Svalbard Archipelago.  Beyond fascinating Arctic landscapes, inhabited by rich and diverse land and marine wildlife, the archipelago has a unique human history worth getting to know before travelling there. 

Perched halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole, Svalbard might seem like a windswept wilderness untouched by politics. But look closer, and you’ll find that these icy islands tell a story of exploration, international agreements, and subtle geopolitical maneuvering.

From Whalers to Miners

Humans first came to Svalbard in the late 1500s, when Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz recorded his sighting in 1596. Within decades, European nations — especially the Dutch, English, and Danes — were sending ships north to hunt whales in the surrounding seas.

By the late 1800s, another resource drew people here: coal. Norwegians, Russians, Americans, and others set up mining camps, each staking informal claims in this lawless Arctic frontier.

The Svalbard Treaty of 1920

After World War I, the question of who “owned” Svalbard came to a head. The Svalbard Treaty, signed in Paris in 1920, gave Norway full sovereignty — but with a twist:

• Citizens and companies from all treaty signatories have equal rights to live and work here.
• All taxes collected on Svalbard must be spent locally.
• The islands must remain demilitarized — no bases, no troops, no fortifications.

Today, more than 40 countries are signatories, including Russia, the United States, Canada and China.

A Tale of Two Towns

Norway’s main settlement, Longyearbyen, is a hub of tourism, research, and Arctic adventure. But head west, and you’ll find Barentsburg, a Russian mining town that feels like a slice of the Soviet past. Its coal mine is still active, though more as a symbol of Russia’s presence than a major economic engine.

Location of Barentsburg - about 50kms/30miles SW of the main town of Longyearbyen

This unusual arrangement — a NATO country hosting a Russian community in the Arctic — is one of the quirks created by the Svalbard Treaty.

Russia Town: Barentsburg, on the Svalbard Archipelago

Modern Geopolitics in the High North

In recent years, the Arctic has gained strategic importance as sea ice retreats and shipping lanes open. Svalbard’s location along these emerging routes gives it fresh relevance. While the treaty keeps it demilitarized, both Norway and Russia keep a watchful eye here. Fishing rights, environmental regulations, and potential oil and gas exploration all occasionally spark diplomatic friction.

For visitors, Svalbard remains one of the safest and most peaceful places in the Arctic. But knowing its history — and how this remote land became a stage for global diplomacy — adds a fascinating dimension to any trip.

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CNH Tours organized an event in Victoria British Columbia (31 July) in support of the Charles Darwin Foundation. Great venue, great food and good conversations.

The “Global Gathering for Galapagos” to celebrate the 65th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Foundation and its incredible conservation research & accomplishments was held in Metchosin, BC (near Victoria) Canada. Events were held in 65 locations around the world to raise funds & awareness (we raised nearly $3,000). 

CNH Tours co-owner Heather Blenkiron, with the help of our Antarctica travel advisor (and Victoria resident) Kathy Haesevoets led the organization effort for this lovely event at the bucolic Bilston Creek Lavender Farm.  Heather and her husband Marc said a few words, and ceded the podium to Michael Jackson, who outlined some of the great work the Foundation is doing. We watched other events around the world via a live-streaming platform.  There was a lengthy Q&A session.  It was great to see friends, former guests and even a Galapagos ship owner and make some new connections with those who are passionate about Galapagos conservation.

From the Darwin Foundation:  “We are celebrating this 65th anniversary milestone alongside our community of donors at the Houston Zoo, a long-standing ally and supporter of our work in the Galapagos. Together, we will raise awareness, turn reflection into action and show how conservation in the Galapagos inspires global change.”

L-R: Kathy Haesevoets (Antarctica Trave Advisor); Heather Blenkiron & Marc Patry (CNH Tours co-owners) and Michael Jackson

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal 

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That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been saved from being released into the atmosphere due to our trips from January to June 2025 - thanks to CNH Tours' participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.  

The Gold Standard is rated as among the top best carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  For Galapagos, this amounts to the CO2 emitted by the domestic flight to the islands and to those emitted by the expedition cruise ship.

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide.

Eleven expert-crafted guides help travelers make the most of their journey to the Enchanted Islands

Travelers preparing for  (or just contemplating) a trip to the Galápagos Islands can now rely on a single, expertly curated online resource to plan every aspect of their adventure. CNH Tours offers a practical Resources page (https://www.cnhtours.com/resources.aspx) that covers everything from wildlife viewing to ship selection—with nine indispensable tools designed to enhance the visitor experience.

The page includes:

1. Reading List – A carefully selected collection of books and articles for those wanting to understand the natural and human history of the Galápagos before they arrive.

2. Tipping Guidelines – Clear and culturally appropriate advice on how to show appreciation to guides and crew, removing the guesswork for travelers.

3. Travel Insurance 101 - If you start looking into the details, travel insurance can be pretty complicated. Are you getting the right coverage? Enough of it? We've assembled this short guide designed to help you understand what it's all about.

4. What to Pack – A practical and detailed packing list tailored to the unique conditions of a Galápagos expedition, ensuring travelers bring what they need—and nothing they don’t.

5. Photography Tips from the Experts – A 14-point checklist for capturing the islands’ stunning wildlife and landscapes, from sea lions to sunsets.

6. When to Go – The Wildlife Calendar – A month-by-month breakdown of wildlife activity, helping visitors align their trip with natural events like sea turtle nesting or blue-footed booby courtship.

7. Bringing Kids to Galápagos – Insightful guidance for families considering a Galápagos adventure, with tips on age-appropriate expectations and onboard dynamics.

8. Where Darwin Stopped – A unique research piece identifying the exact locations Charles Darwin visited during his pivotal 1835 expedition aboard the HMS Beagle.

9. Ship Classes Defined – A plain-language explanation of ship classifications in the Galápagos, helping travelers make informed decisions about comfort and budget.

10. 10 Things to Do in Puerto Ayora – A locally informed guide to the top activities in the islands’ main town, including highlights like the fish market and Tortuga Bay.

11. What's the Best Flight Route to Ecuador?  We get this question a lot. From Anchorage, London, Chicago, Montreal, Singapore…. to Ecuador... What's the best flight route?

Whether it’s understanding the islands' endemic species, choosing the right boat, or finding the best snorkel spots, CNH Tours’ Resources page ensures that travelers arrive well-informed and ready to experience the Galápagos with insight and confidence.

"We created this hub to help travelers deepen their connection with the islands, even before they set foot there," says Marc Patry, co-owner of CNH Tours and a former staffer at the Charles Darwin Research Station.

For anyone heading to the Galápagos, CNH Tour’s Resources page is more than a helpful tool—it’s the first step in a more meaningful journey.

EDINBUGRH, UK  June 1956

Following several reports on the growing concern over...

"..the precarious situation of various species of fauna and flora endemic to the Galápagos Islands..."

and by

"... reports in the press of plans for the large tourist and economic development of the resources of the Galápagos Islands", 

the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), passed a resolution recommending...

"... that qualified naturalists should be encouraged to visit the Galápagos Islands to make a survey and ecological studies of the fauna and flora and express their hope that facilities will be provided by the Ecuadorian Government or through some form of international technical aid so that a small housing unit or laboratory might serve as a base for such scientific work"

NEW YORK, 5 July 1957

On 5 July 1957, accompanied by an illustrator and photographer from Life Magazine,  Irenäus Eibl-Eibesfeldtand (Austrian native, working at the Max Planck Institute for Behavioural Physiology) and Robert Bowman (native Canadian, professor of comparative vertebrate anatomy, ornithology, and island biology at San Francisco State University) depart by airplane from New York City for Guayaquil, Ecuador.

PARIS, 10 October 1960

Professor Robert Bowman delivers his report to UNESCO.  

A BIOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE OF THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS DURING 1957

For anyone out there keen on the history of Galapagos conservation, Professor Bowman's report is fascinating reading.  

Tui De Roy, our Galapagos Travel Photo Tour Expert, Honoured

We are delighted to share the welcome news that our Galapagos Photo Tour leader, Tui De Roy, was recently selected by her peers as the 2025 recipient of the North American Nature Photographers Association’s Lifetime Achievement in Nature Photography Award. 

To be publicly acknowledged for a lifetime’s passion is something that is not new to Tui De Roy.  Previous accolades that distinguish her as THE Galapagos photo expert include the North American Nature Photographers Association’s ‘Outstanding Photographer of the Year’, Sea Shepherd Conservation Society’s award for ‘Courage and Active Service’ and an ‘Honorary Park Ranger’ medal from the Galápagos National Park. 

Tui receives her bouquet at last month's North American Nature Photographer's Association annual meeting

Tui honed her craft in the Galapagos Archipelago, her home from 2 years of age until her mid-20’s. At that time, she set out to capture a broader range of iconic nature destinations through a conservation lens, expanding her photographic horizons, and documenting the natural world she encountered in dozens of books and journals. Despite a lifetime of traversing the planet, Galapagos, she is considered a champion for conservation in the islands, remains a place Tui De Roy still considers home.  Marrying her passion for wildness, photography and conservation, Tui’s latest project involves 13 major international photography expeditions in preparation for a new book on SEA TURTLES of the world. 

START PLANNING YOUR GALAPAGOS PHOTO TOUR NOW

We are proud to have worked with Tui De Roy for the last 10 years to offer our hallmark Tui De Roy Photo Tour.  Designed for the photographer and non-photographer alike, the tour offers a slower pace to immerse oneself in the wildlife experience, take advantage of early morning and late afternoon light, and experience the islands through the eyes of one of it’s most cherished residents. Frame by frame, Tui assists our Photo / Art Tour guests in capturing the most iconic species, vistas and landscapes possible over a slow 15 day circumnavigation on the lovely locally owned and operated, Anahi.

We welcome you to join Tui De Roy as your personal photo tour leader, together with two stellar hand-picked naturalist guides, on our circumnavigation of the Galapagos Archipelago!

CNH Tours is proud to announce that Kelsey Bradley, our senior associate for Galapagos, was elected as a governing member of the Charles Darwin Foundations General Assembly during the Foundation’s annual general meeting earlier this week.

The General Assembly is the highest governing body of the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF), and its governing members play a pivotal role in guiding the organization's strategic direction and ensuring effective governance. Comprising scientists, government officials, members of partner institutions, and representatives from the Galápagos community, the Assembly is responsible for:

• Electing the Board of Directors: The Assembly selects members who oversee the Foundation's operations and strategic initiatives.
• Establishing Policies: It sets organizational policies that align with CDF's mission to conserve the Galápagos Islands through scientific research and conservation efforts.
• Approving Budgets: The Assembly reviews and approves the annual budget, ensuring financial resources are allocated effectively to support various projects and programs.
• Conducting Annual Meetings: These meetings serve as a platform to review the year's achievements, discuss challenges, and plan for future activities.

By fulfilling these roles, the General Assembly ensures that the Charles Darwin Foundation remains aligned with its mission and continues to make impactful contributions to the conservation of the Galápagos Islands.

Kelsey began her relationship with the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF) through a chance encounter in a café on San Cristóbal Island, where a conversation with economist Juan Carlos Guzmán led to an invitation to volunteer at the Station. She started in the Technical Assistance department, initially contributing to Project Floreana before it was paused, and was later integrated into various areas of the Foundation's work—from field activities in the highlands to strategic project analysis. Eventually, she returned to the CDF as a staff member during a difficult financial period, taking on responsibilities in the fundraising department. When the Grants Manager retired in 2016, she ensured continuity by leading the department until new staff could be hired.

Kelsey left the Foundation in 2018 and returned to her home town of Ottawa, where she joined us at CNH Tours.  

Kelsey joins Marc Patry, CNH Tours co-founder of CNH Tours, who is also a governing member of the Charles Darwin Foundation.  

CNH Tours remains convinced that the more you prepare for your trip, the more you will get out of it.  While being prepared includes packing appropriately, checking on any vaccination requirements and of course, ensuring your passport is valid, we are also convinced you should do your best to prepare your mind.   Catching up on a few key books that address some of the issues / stories most pertinent to your destination is an excellent way to do that.   

We've assembled a short list of guide, fiction and non-fiction books for your consideration.  Reading any one or two of them will surely provide that much more depth to your experience.   Do not hesitate to recommend any books you think should be on our list.

MADAGASCAR READING LIST

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal 

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We get this question a lot.  From Anchorage to Quito, or Reykjavik to Antananarivo.  What's the best flight route?  

What's the best way, from A to B?

There is no single “best” flight route that suits everyone, because so many factors come into play when booking travel. In other words, it really does depend on what matters most to you personally. Here’s a deeper look at the key factors that can influence your decision:

• Number of Connections: Some travelers prefer to have as few connections as possible. A direct flight might be the most convenient, but it’s not always available from your home airport, or it might be more expensive. For others, a longer layover may be worth it if it significantly reduces costs.

• Price: Budget is a big factor. Travelers often balance convenience with price. For example, a direct flight may be more expensive, while a flight with one or two layovers can be much cheaper.

• Departure and Arrival Times: The time you leave and arrive can make a big difference. You may want to arrive early in the day so you can make the most of your time at the destination, or you might prefer an overnight flight to save on hotel costs.

• Stopovers and Interesting Layovers: Some travelers enjoy routes that allow for a longer stop in another city, turning it into a mini trip within a trip. This can be a great way to explore a new place without buying a separate ticket.

• Airline Loyalty Programs: Frequent flyers might prioritize routes with airlines that offer them the most value in terms of points or status upgrades. If you’re a member of a loyalty program, booking with a partner airline can also bring you added perks.

• Reliability and Flexibility: Some airlines have better reputations for punctuality, fewer cancellations, or more flexible policies on changes and cancellations. This can matter a lot, especially if your plans might shift.

At CNH Tours, we typically start by using a comprehensive booking site like Expedia. These platforms show a broad range of airlines and flight options, helping us see the possibilities side-by-side. Once we identify a promising option, we double-check directly with the airline’s website for accuracy and to make sure we’re seeing the most up-to-date schedules and fares. We usually book directly with the airline—this is key—because in our experience, it’s easier to resolve issues or make changes if something goes wrong when you’re dealing directly with the airline, rather than through an intermediary booking site.

Ultimately, the best route for you will come down to balancing these factors—price, comfort, convenience, airline loyalty, and peace of mind—according to your own travel priorities.

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal 

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