The ship we charter for our Active Galapagos trips is 91% sold out for 2027.   It runs 49 weekly departures / year (reserving 3 weeks for annual maintenance and re-fitting).  The Samba has 7 berths – for a total of 49 x 7 berths = 343 possible berths available in the year.

Currently, only 31 berths remain available, with the first availability not until July. 

If you are keen on booking an Active Galapagos trip on the 14 passenger Samba for next year, act quickly – or better yet, to have a wider range of choices on dates an itineraries that fit your agenda, now is the time to book a trip in 2028.

We first started running "ACTIVE GALAPAGOS" trips in 2005, aboard another ship.  Not satisfied with the responsiveness of the owners, we were open to finding another ship that was more aligned with our vision.  We met up with the Samba owners in about 2007 and booked 2 weeks for our Active Galapagos trips on it.   

Within just a few years, we were up to 8 weeks, then 12... and now, we have almost the entire year on the Samba available for our Active Galapagos departures.   

Several kayaks on board, stand-up paddle boards, early morning excursions, late afternoon lingering, plenty of snorkeling and taking your time on the trails, walking them to the very end.  When booking an Active trip on the Samba, you can be pretty much guaranteed to be with a group of people just as keen as you are to get the absolute most of every moment of your time in the islands.   

"After day three...we were exhausted!" recounts Joyce, from Alaska.  "But it didn't matter... we had to just get up and keep pushing because every day was so exciting and so different" (you can watch the video where she says this right here).  

We still have several availabilities over the usually very busy Christmas 2027 period and over the US Thanksgiving period.  Book now... before it's too late!    ;-) 

 

 

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Travel is an investment in experiences worth protecting. CNH Tours strongly recommends that all guests purchase comprehensive travel insurance, including coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, emergency medical expenses, and evacuation. Please ensure your policy suits your itinerary and personal circumstances.

CNH Tours provides complimentary emergency medical evacuation insurance of up to US$200,000 to all our guests through USI / United Health Care. This coverage is limited to the standard trip itinerary you book with us.  It covers only emergency medical evacuation; it does not replace comprehensive travel insurance. For guests seeking additional coverage, we highlight USI / United Health Care below as one option, with purchasing information available for both US residents and residents of other countries. There are many other good providers, and we encourage you to compare options and choose the coverage that best meets your needs.

 

For residents of the USA:

 

For residents of other countries: 

 

CNH Tours is not an insurance broker and cannot advise on individual policies. Please discuss coverage, exclusions and eligibility directly with your chosen provider, which will also handle any claims.  Full disclosure - we do receive a modest commission when insurance policies are purchased through the above providers. 

 

TRAVEL INSURANCE 101: 

For more information on travel insurance, consult our "handy" travel insurance primer here. 

 

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A new Galapagos Atlas: fuel for the curious traveller

There’s good news for those who like to understand a little more about the places they visit. The Charles Darwin Foundation has published a revised, English-language edition of its Galapagos Atlas—309 pages of maps, photographs and scientific knowledge about these remarkable islands. At CNH Tours, we’re delighted to see this resource made freely available. Whether you’re preparing for your first visit or looking back on a memorable expedition, there is plenty here to keep your curiosity occupied.

Why are some animals found on particular islands, while others occur throughout the archipelago? How do ocean currents help shape the wildlife encounters we enjoy? The atlas provides useful context, combining chapters on geology, climate and human history with illustrated species profiles and distribution maps. Familiar favourites—giant tortoises, marine iguanas and Darwin’s finches—share its pages with less celebrated inhabitants. A little browsing before departure could add another dimension to a shoreline walk, a snorkelling outing or a conversation with your naturalist guide.

One particularly appealing feature is the atlas’s willingness to identify what scientists still don’t know. Even in Galapagos, there is much left to discover—a welcome reminder that these islands remain a place of ongoing exploration. We congratulate the Foundation and its contributors on a publication that brings that spirit to a wider audience. Download your free copy here, and spend some time getting acquainted with the islands before you arrive. Fair warning: you may finish with more questions for your guide!

 

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We're just getting too busy!  CNH Tours is now helping over 700 people per year research, plan, organize and enjoy a Galapagos trip of a lifetime.  To ensure we can continue to provide our famous "unmatched personalized service", we've recently welcomed a new member to our team. 

In this regard, CNH Tours is delighted to announce that Juan Manuel Coronel is joining us as our Ecuador and Galápagos Operations Manager! Having worked with Juan Manuel for nearly 20 years, we’re particularly pleased to welcome a familiar colleague to the team. His appointment opens an exciting new chapter in a longstanding relationship, bringing his extensive experience in Galápagos tourism even closer to our day-to-day work.

Juan Manuel has built much of his career around connecting travellers with the Galápagos Islands. His experience includes more than eight years with Galapagos Experience, followed by roles at Galagents and, most recently, six years as Sales Manager at Galaxy Cruises. Along the way, he has led sales and reservations teams, worked closely with tourism partners, and helped travellers turn their plans into memorable journeys. With a university background in tourism and environmental conservation, and language skills spanning Spanish, English and German, he brings a valuable combination of destination knowledge and international perspective.

As our Ecuador and Galápagos Operations Manager, Juan Manuel will help coordinate the many details that make our guests’ journeys run smoothly, working closely with our team and local partners. We’re excited to build on nearly two decades of collaboration and to have his experience supporting this next chapter for CNH Tours. Welcome aboard, Juan Manuel—we’re thrilled to have you on the team!

 

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That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been offset due to our trips from January to June 2026 - thanks to CNH Tours' (and our sister company, Galapagos Travel's) participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.  The Gold Standard is rated as among - and possibly "the" best - carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  We do this for our Galapagos trips, but also for the other trips we run (Madagascar, Pantanal, Antarctica, Easter Island, Okavango, the Arctic...).  

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide.

 

 

 

Ecuador occupies less than two-tenths of one percent of the Earth’s land surface, yet more than 1,600 species of birds have been recorded there — roughly one bird species in every six known worldwide. Even allowing for the fact that larger countries naturally tend to contain more species, Ecuador is extraordinary. A simple species–area analysis suggests that it supports close to three times as many bird species as we might expect for a country of its size. Ecuador’s tourism authorities describe it as having the highest bird-species density in the world, and it is not difficult to understand why.

What makes Ecuador so rich is geography. In a country only a little larger than the United Kingdom, the Pacific lowlands, two great Andean cordilleras, inter-Andean valleys, cloud forests, páramo and Amazon rainforest are compressed into remarkably short distances. Cross the Andes and you repeatedly pass through entirely different ecological worlds, each supporting its own community of birds. For the visiting naturalist, this means you do not need to be a dedicated “lister” to encounter spectacular species. Hummingbirds glitter around lodge feeders, toucans and barbets appear in fruiting trees, brilliantly coloured tanagers move through mixed flocks, and with a little luck an Andean cock-of-the-rock may emerge from the cloud forest. Even some of the more extraordinary birds — such as the sword-billed hummingbird, whose bill is longer than the rest of its body — can be encountered without mounting a full-scale birding expedition.

The remarkable Sword-billed Hummingbird — one of the characteristic birds of the high Andes. Photo: Jess Findlay / Nature TTL.

For someone already travelling through Quito, perhaps the easiest introduction is to spend two or three nights on the western slope of the Andes around Mindo and Tandayapa. This is classic cloud-forest country and particularly rewarding for hummingbirds, tanagers, toucans and the Andean cock-of-the-rock. A contrasting day can then be spent at Antisana, southeast of Quito, where the forest gives way to high-altitude páramo and the avifauna changes almost completely; this is one of the classic areas for looking for the Andean condor. You do not need to spend the day ticking off species. Stay at a good nature lodge, sit quietly near the hummingbird feeders, take an early-morning walk with a knowledgeable local guide, and stop whenever something interesting appears. That slower approach is often considerably more enjoyable for the general naturalist. Ecuador's official birdwatching guidance specifically highlights Antisana for the condor and the country's northwest for its exceptional bird diversity.

The aptly named Long-tailed Sylph is one of the many hummingbirds that make Ecuador particularly memorable.

To experience another completely different community of birds, add three or four nights in the Amazon. A good wildlife lodge in the Napo–Yasuní region gives access to forest trails, rivers and lagoons, canopy observation towers and, in some areas, parrot clay licks. Here the experience is as much about the forest itself as it is about accumulating species: macaws and parrots passing overhead, toucans calling from the canopy, kingfishers beside the waterways, strange prehistoric-looking hoatzins scrambling through riverside vegetation and dozens of smaller species moving through the forest. Yasuní National Park is regarded as one of the most biologically diverse places on Earth, and Ecuador's tourism authorities specifically recommend river excursions, birdwatching, jungle lodges and parrot clay licks as ways of experiencing it.

 A monkey's greatest nightmare: The Harpy eagle of the Amazon basin

 

 

Red-headed Barbet — a good example of the remarkable colour encountered in Ecuador's humid Andean forests. 

And then there is Galápagos. The islands do not contribute enormous numbers to Ecuador's national bird list; their importance lies instead in endemism. The Charles Darwin Foundation currently recognizes 29 species of small Galápagos landbirds, about 90% of which are endemic, alongside remarkable endemic seabirds and coastal species such as the Galápagos penguin and flightless cormorant. Here birds are interesting not simply because of what they look like, but because of the evolutionary stories they tell. Darwin's finches differ from island to island, short-eared owls on Genovesa hunt storm petrels among the lava, penguins survive on the equator because of cold ocean currents, and the waved albatross returns to Española to breed. A well-designed Galápagos cruise therefore complements mainland Ecuador beautifully: the mainland overwhelms with diversity, while Galápagos fascinates with adaptation, behaviour and uniqueness.

Waved Albatross on Española — one of the great bird encounters of Galápagos.

For a traveller wanting to appreciate Ecuador's birds without making birds the sole purpose of the journey, the formula can be surprisingly simple: combine the Andes with the Amazon and Galápagos. Even a few days around Mindo and Antisana, followed by several nights in a good Amazon lodge and a Galápagos cruise, exposes you to an extraordinary cross-section of the country's avifauna. Bring a decent pair of binoculars, go outside early in the morning, and whenever possible travel with guides who know the birds as part of the wider natural environment rather than simply as names on a checklist. You may return home without knowing exactly how many species you saw. That hardly matters. What you are likely to remember is just how often, in Ecuador, you raised your binoculars and found yourself looking at something you had never imagined existed.

Think you're in paradise?  You're not far off.  The Paradise tanager - an Amazon resident

 

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El Niño is one of the most important forces shaping conditions in Galápagos, but its effects are not nearly as predictable as the headlines sometimes suggest. A strong El Niño generally means warmer seas around the islands, reduced upwelling of the cold, nutrient-rich water on which much of the marine food web depends, and—if the warming extends strongly into the eastern Pacific around Galápagos—warmer, wetter conditions on land. During the exceptional 1997–98 event, rainfall was extraordinary and the reduction in marine productivity had serious consequences for several wildlife populations. For visitors, such conditions can mean unusually warm water, greener landscapes and more rain, while some marine animals and seabirds may experience food shortages or altered breeding success.

The important qualification is that not all strong El Niños behave alike in Galápagos. The 2015–16 El Niño, for example, was one of the strongest ever measured in the tropical Pacific—rivaling or exceeding 1997–98 according to some commonly used indices—yet rainfall in Galápagos remained surprisingly close to average. Recent research suggests that what matters greatly to Galápagos is not simply the headline strength of El Niño across the broad Niño 3.4 region used by NOAA (the US National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Commission), but where the warm water is concentrated and, especially, what happens to sea-surface temperatures immediately around the archipelago. An El Niño centred farther west in the Pacific can therefore produce very different Galápagos conditions from an apparently similar event whose strongest warming extends all the way east toward Ecuador and the islands.

This makes predicting the visitor experience particularly difficult months in advance. Forecasts may give us increasing confidence that an El Niño will occur, and even that it will be strong, without telling us precisely how warm the waters around Galápagos will become, how much the normal upwelling will weaken, or how much rain individual islands will receive. Even during a substantial El Niño, Galápagos does not cease to be an extraordinary wildlife destination; rather, the conditions visitors encounter can shift—warmer seas, different marine activity, greener vegetation, heavier showers or, in an extreme eastern-Pacific event, significant ecological disruption. The sensible approach, therefore, is to follow El Niño forecasts closely while resisting the temptation to translate a particular NOAA index directly into predictions about what visitors will actually experience in Galápagos.

 

WHAT DOES LOCAL KNOWLEDGE HAVE TO CONTRIBUTE?

Juan Salcedo, with his family, is the owner of the Samba (the ship we use for our Active Galapagos trips).  He grew up in the Galapagos Islands, has the following thoughts on how the current is manifested in Galapagos:

El Niño is definitely a concern for everyone and we are particularly worried for our penguins and cormorants. 

I have witnessed El Niño 97-98, 2016-2017 and the most current 2022-2023. The last 2 barely deserve mention because they didn’t develop to be major in Galapagos. 

2016 was of consideration for the coast of Perú and Ecuador but only had localized damage in the Islands. Certainly very dry and short for the Galapagos, specifically when you compare it with 82-83 and 97-98.

Currently, NOAA is confirming El Niño is here and we are witnessing heavier precipitation than usual this time of year in all the big islands. However, it doesn’t rain as long or heavy as 2016 and not nearly as close as 97-98. The winds keep blowing and, we don’t have major decline in wildlife in the archipelago.

We have seen the arrival of unusual species that are an indicator of El Niño on the coast of South America. Peruvian boobies, Guanay cormorant and even a White tailed tropic bird that is the first record ever for Ecuador and the Galapagos (they live 3000 kms from here!)

I could talk about this forever.

 

Juan Salcedo (standing)

 

We understand that your guests may be concerned given the reports in the news. We can reassure people that ENSO is not going to stop them from having a wonderful Galapagos experience. It never rains all day all night, especially when you are on a boat (towns are a different story). Plus, El Niño has been a thing since we have the Pacific the way we have it and our species have some resilience to it. A bonus: Warmer and clearer waters for longer snorkeling!

Finally, we have no certainty of the duration, strength and results after the following dry season. If it arrives and the warm waters go back to the west Pacific, La Niña will be stronger than ever. That means we will have to worry about finches, mockingbirds and the recovery of the vermillion flycatcher or the rewinding of Floreana.

Struggle is part of my home and what drives change. Only privilege people can experience that, on the Samba.

In the end, we just cannot say what the potential effects may be, how intense it can be, and if/where it might be most manifested. So far, the effects have been modest. 

 

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effects of 2026 El Niño on the Galapagos Islands from a visitor's perspective.

Galápagos has long been known as a place where scientists come to better understand the natural world. That tradition is very much alive today. At the recent VIII Galápagos Research and Conservation Symposium on San Cristóbal Island, hundreds of researchers, conservationists, students and Galápagos National Park staff gathered to share what they are learning about the islands—and many of the subjects they are studying are things visitors encounter every day during a Galápagos trip.

Charles Darwin Research Station director Rakan Zahawi provides some opening remarks

More than 470 people participated in the symposium, with over 40 presentations covering everything from sharks, rays, dolphins and sea turtles to invasive species and marine pollution. Researchers are trying to understand where animals travel, where they feed, how populations are changing and how they respond to changing ocean conditions. This kind of work has practical consequences: the better we understand how Galápagos wildlife uses the islands and surrounding ocean, the better equipped conservation authorities are to protect the places that matter most.

Some of the work is surprisingly high-tech. Scientists have now developed the first reference genomes for both the Galápagos sea lion and the Galápagos fur seal. Genetic research can reveal how healthy and diverse their populations are and how resilient they may be to disease, warming seas and other environmental pressures. Elsewhere, satellite tracking and long-term monitoring are helping researchers follow the movements of sharks, turtles and other marine species far beyond the places most visitors ever see.

Other studies are looking at relatively new challenges. Plastics and other contaminants are being detected and monitored in the marine environment, while climate change and El Niño events remain major areas of concern. Galápagos is especially valuable to scientists because its ecosystems have been studied for so long. When conditions change, researchers can compare what is happening today with decades of earlier observations and see how wildlife responds.

For travelers, this adds another dimension to a Galápagos visit. The sea lion sleeping on a beach, the shark gliding below a panga or the marine iguana grazing underwater may also be part of a much larger scientific story. Nearly two centuries after Darwin sailed through the islands, Galápagos remains a genuine living laboratory—not simply because of what happened here in the past, but because scientists are still making discoveries that help us understand, and better protect, this extraordinary place.

 

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When CNH Tours published its first news item in September 2010, we did not set out to create an extensive historical record. We simply wanted to share developments that mattered to travellers and to the people who care about the remarkable places we visit.

More than 15 years later, our news archive contains 642 articles. Together, they form an unusually detailed chronicle of Galápagos life: scientific discoveries, volcanic eruptions, conservation successes, political controversies, wildlife trafficking cases, changes in tourism and the occasional wonderfully eccentric island story. More recently, the archive has expanded to include Antarctica, the Arctic, Madagascar, the Pantanal, Easter Island and the Okavango–Kalahari region.

Choosing only a few highlights is nearly impossible, but the following stories illustrate the variety contained in the archive.

“Near Extinct Mockingbird to Be Re-introduced” — 2010
One of our earliest reports followed efforts to return the Floreana mockingbird—one of the birds that helped stimulate Darwin’s thinking about evolution—to its former home. It captured a recurring theme in our reporting: extinction is not always inevitable when determined people intervene.

“Smuggling of Marine Iguanas Thwarted by K-9 Corps” — 2010
A trained detection dog helped expose an attempt to smuggle marine iguanas from the islands. Sadly, wildlife trafficking has remained a recurring subject, making this early article as relevant today as when it was published.

“Largest Rat Eradication in South America—Ever!” — 2011
The removal of invasive rats from Galápagos islands ranks among the archipelago’s most ambitious conservation undertakings. The scale of the operation offered an extraordinary glimpse into the practical realities of restoring an island ecosystem.

“Flying Galápagos Penguins Captured on Video!” — 2011
Not every memorable story needs to concern a crisis. This delightfully improbable headline introduced footage of penguins “in full flight” — an irresistible reminder that natural history can be both serious and joyful.

“CNH Guests Enjoy Extremely Rare Swim with Whales” — 2012
Travellers aboard the Samba experienced an exceptional encounter near seldom-visited Marchena Island. It was the kind of spontaneous wildlife moment that no itinerary can guarantee—and that no participant is likely to forget.

“Polynesian Invasion?” — 2012
This wonderfully quirky article revisited Thor Heyerdahl’s search for evidence of pre-Columbian visitors to Galápagos—and the story of Floreana residents who carved a fake “ancient” stone face to test the famous explorer’s credulity.

“Icon of Conservation—Lonesome George Dies” — 2012
The death of Lonesome George marked the extinction of the Pinta Island giant tortoise lineage and became one of the most widely recognized conservation stories of modern times. Our archive recorded the event..

“German Iguana Smuggler Gets Four Years!” — 2013
This report followed a rare case in which wildlife trafficking resulted in a substantial prison sentence. It demonstrated that protecting Galápagos requires not only science and park management, but also effective policing and courts.

“Spectacular Eruption on Wolf Volcano” — 2015
Galápagos was born of fire and continues to be shaped by it. The eruption of Wolf Volcano was scientifically fascinating and visually spectacular, while also raising concerns for the rare pink land iguanas and giant tortoises living on its slopes.

“Massive Eruption on Isabela Island!” — 2018
Our report on the eruption of Sierra Negra conveyed the immediacy of events unfolding in real time: messages from naturalist guides, seismic readings and rapidly arriving confirmation that one of the world’s great volcanoes had awakened.

“Wolf Volcano: Still Going Strong After Two Months” — 2022
Most Galápagos eruptions last only days or weeks. Wolf Volcano’s prolonged 2022 eruption offered readers a chance to follow the geological evolution of the islands almost as it occurred.

“When the K-9 Unit Crashes a Meeting…” — 2026
At a Charles Darwin Foundation meeting, specially trained dogs made an unexpected appearance. Their work had helped intercept marine iguanas and thousands of shark fins—a striking combination of conservation science, criminal investigation and canine talent.

These twelve articles represent only a small fraction of the archive. Others document tsunamis, El Niño events, newly recorded species, conservation disputes, remarkable animal behaviour, tourism policy and the daily challenges of safeguarding globally important natural places.

Taken together, the 642 stories reflect something we have always believed: meaningful travel begins with curiosity. A destination is more than a collection of attractive visitor sites. It is a living place, shaped by wildlife, geology, history, science, politics and the people working to protect it.

We are proud to have shared these stories since 2010—and we look forward to publishing many more.

 

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Travellers planning a visit to Galápagos often ask: “What are the must-do visitor sites and activities?”

It is an understandable question. Galápagos may be a once-in-a-lifetime journey, and nobody wants to return home feeling they missed something essential. Yet before acting on the answers, it is worth questioning both the idea of a universal “must-do” list and the qualifications of the people offering one.

When advice is gathered from online forums, social media groups or fellow travellers, the respondents’ backgrounds are often unknown. Is the recommendation coming from someone who has travelled extensively and can compare Galápagos with wildlife destinations around the world? From someone who spent five days on the islands and visited only a handful of sites? Or from a Galápagos naturalist guide who has spent years observing seasonal changes, wildlife behaviour and the distinctive qualities of dozens of visitor sites?

These people may all answer confidently, but their answers are based on very different levels of knowledge and experience.

A traveller may describe one site as “the best in Galápagos” simply because it was the highlight of the only itinerary they experienced. They may have no basis for comparison with other islands, seasons or activities. A frequently repeated recommendation may therefore reflect familiarity and accessibility rather than exceptional quality.

This helps explain why “must-do” lists often favour the most famous, easily reached and widely visited places. These may be excellent experiences, but popularity does not necessarily mean they are the most rewarding choices for you.

The question also reveals very little about the person asking for advice.

Someone interested in evolutionary biology may value time observing finches, mockingbirds and the differences between related species. A keen snorkeller may prefer an hour among sea turtles, rays and reef fish to a celebrated viewpoint. A photographer may prioritize light, landscapes and patient wildlife observation. Someone interested in history or conservation may be drawn to scientific expeditions, settlement stories and the complex relationship between people and the islands.

Others may simply want quiet moments: watching marine iguanas on a beach, listening to a seabird colony or observing a giant tortoise emerge from the mist.

Before asking what you “must do,” first ask what you hope to learn, discover and experience. Which animals, landscapes or ideas interest you most? Do you prefer active exploration or slow observation? Are you drawn to geology, photography, natural history, conservation, human history or the underwater world?

Then consider the source of the advice. What did that person actually experience? How long were they in Galápagos? How widely have they travelled? Do their interests resemble yours?

Without knowing the background of the respondent, a confident recommendation may not be especially useful. Galápagos is too varied, and travellers are too different, for one person’s highlight to become everyone else’s obligation.

The best experience is not necessarily the one mentioned most often. It is the one that most closely matches your own curiosity.

 

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When sport fishing as an activity in Galapagos was being considered, it was highly contested. In a place where it was against the rules to simply feed a grain of rice to a bird, or to approach any wildlife closer than 2 meters, allowing people to get into boats to harass and ultimately traumatize, injure, and often kill big fish[1] for fun seemed at odds with the entire conservation and nature appreciation spirit of what Galapagos tourism has always been about.

Some will argue that fishing as a commercial activity is permitted in Galapagos (only by a limited number of licensed local fishermen, and restricted to a very narrow set of fishing practices) – so why not sport fishing?  

Indeed, fishing for food has been going on in Galapagos for centuries.  The waters are rich and fish are abundant.[2]    The sea is a critical source of food for residents and tourists (approximately 70% of the catch is consumed locally). Local fishers make a modest but sustainable living.    

Things changed in the 1990’s with the sea cucumbers and shark fins. 

The Chinese market for sea cucumbers and shark fins opened and a hitherto plentiful, ignored but now highly lucrative resource led to a gold rush environment.  First, the continental fishers harvested these species to near commercial extinction on the mainland – and then they set eyes on the Galapagos.  Large numbers of continental fishers moved to Galapagos to exploit the resource.  Local fishers found themselves competing with outsiders – resentment grew.  

Given that all this was taking place in in the Galapagos Marine Reserve (created in 1986), the Galapagos National Park Service (GNPS) had to step in. In an “after-the-fact” situation, it sought to impose a framework under which these new fisheries would operate sustainably (shark fishing was prohibited altogether).  Having operated in a wild west / no-restrictions environment, the fishers resisted the imposition of rules and regulations, sometimes violently, leading to the infamous Galapagos fishing war of the late 1990’s and early 2000’s[3]. 

Over the intervening 3-4 years, tempers calmed and joint efforts took place to find solutions that would work for as many stakeholders as possible.[4]

Today, commercial fishing in Galapagos is highly regulated. Only those permanent Galapagos residents having been engaged in it before the park established regulations for it were allowed to continue doing so.  They must have a license and can only fish from licensed fishing vessels.  Only certain low-impact fishing practices are allowed (no nets, no long-lines).  A limited number of licenses are in existence – and when one person retires, someone may apply for that license.  There is also a provision for the children of licensed fishers to obtain one.  

During the negotiations on how to regulate fisheries, avenues for giving fishers access to the lucrative tourism sector were explored.  These discussions led to the adoption of “artisanal fishing” as a permitted practice.

The concept of artisanal fishing was deliberately framed not as ordinary sport fishing, but as:

• an activity operated by Galápagos artisanal fishers;
• using their own boats and authorized fishing gear;
• demonstrating the traditional work and culture of the fisher;
• allowing tourists to participate;
• producing tourism income with substantially less extraction than commercial fishing.

 

The Charles Darwin Foundation described its original purpose as selling the culture and experience of the fisher, rather than making the capture of fish the principal objective.

While the concept was neat and attractive, in reality, traditional Galapagos fishers were very poorly equipped to engage with the tourism sector.  Very few spoke any English and their old and slow wooden ships were designed to accommodate 2-3 hardscrabble fishers spending several days at sea with no investment in comfort – not the kind of vessel that would appeal to tourists.  

Savvy locals who had the financial resources and knowledge of the tourism industry saw an opportunity.   Partnering with local fishers, they launched and crewed fishing boats that fit the sport fishing expectations of tourists (modern vessels with comfortable seating, fine finishings, an eating area, functional toilets etc.).   

In the end, the concept of “artisanal fishing” as allowed by the Galapagos National Park Service is what’s taking place in Galapagos on paper.  What’s actually taking place on the sea is a completely different story - it’s pretty much indistinguishable from the kind of sport fishing one will find anywhere else on the planet.[5]  You have tourism entrepreneurs running nice ships charging high prices for taking tourists out for the thrill of catching big fish.  The local fisher under whose name the activity takes place receives a share of the earning.  In the process, fish are invariably very traumatized, and not infrequently fatally injured. 

So, why don’t we condone sport fishing in Galapagos?  It comes down to what we see as an irreconcilable clash with the spirit of what Galapagos tourism has always been about – the kind of tourism that has put Galapagos on the top of the wildlife tourism pyramid of the world, shared with only a very small number of other places.  From Darwin’s insightful observations in 1835, Jacques Cousteau’s pioneering underwater videos (and subsequent documentary film) in 1971 to the countless documentaries since made, the world has come to understand Galapagos as a place where wildlife, so unaccustomed to human presence, shows no inclination to flee when we walk (or swim) among it, where it can go about its business undisturbed.  A place where humans are the intruder – where we are given the chance to see the world as it has been for millions of years.  

 

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[1] Bill-fish can be caught but must be released.  White fish can be kept for consumption. 

[2] Whalers were very active in Galapagos waters from the late 1700’s to the mid-1800’s.

[3] CNH Tours co-owners, then working at the Charles Darwin Research Station, along with other Station colleagues were trapped at the Station for two days as protesting fishers barricaded the only access. For further excellent reading on the fish war, see “In Galápagos, Clashes Between Fishers and Managers Jeopardize Conservation Efforts”

[4] Our colleague, Pippa Heylings, led a good part of this work.  She is now a member of parliament in the UK, sitting as a Liberal Democrat for a Cambridge riding.

[5] Reminding us of how the original Bed & Breakfast concept of staying in a room in someone’s house as a way to meet the locals, experience local traditions turned into AirBnB type of commercial accommodations service, where more often than not, there is no connection to local traditions when staying in an AirBnB accommodation.

In our line of work, we regularly turn to tour leaders and tour guides to ensure our guests enjoy their trips.  But we've come to realize that the distinction between the two, while obvious to us, is not always clear to our guests. In response, we've published this short article.   

Typically, we'll arrange for tour leaders on more complicated trips or on larger group trips.  For small groups, and if our local partners can provide solid local support, we may conclude that it's not necessary to send a tour leader on the trip.   

 

WHAT IS A TOUR LEADER?

A tour leader is the person who keeps the trip running smoothly from start to finish. They travel with the group, handle the day-to-day details, ensure things are on schedule, and step in when plans need adjusting. Whether it’s sorting out a delayed transfer, coordinating with hotels, or simply making sure everyone knows what’s happening next, they are the steady presence behind the scenes who keep the experience seamless and stress-free. Tour leaders may have direct experience in the region and may be in a position to provide additional dimensions to the visit.

Throughout the journey, the tour leader serves as the primary point of contact for guests. They help bridge the gap between travelers and the many suppliers, hotels, transportation providers, and local teams involved in delivering the experience. Their focus is not only on logistics, but also on group well-being. They keep an eye on how everyone is doing, assist with practical matters, and help ensure that the trip unfolds as comfortably and enjoyably as possible.

For example, if weather conditions force a change to the planned itinerary, the tour leader helps coordinate alternatives and communicates the changes clearly. If a traveler becomes ill, loses luggage, or simply needs assistance navigating an unfamiliar situation, the tour leader is often the first person they turn to. On an expedition voyage, a tour leader may organize briefings, facilitate group discussions, help interpret the broader context of the journey, and ensure that everyone understands the plans and opportunities for the days ahead. Or - at meal times, the tour leader may help guests communicate to the restaurant what their dietary restrictions might be. 

 

WHAT IS A TOUR GUIDE?

A tour guide, on the other hand, is there to bring a place to life. They are experts in the destination. They join the group for specific visits or regions and help you understand what you are witnessing. They share stories, history, culture, wildlife knowledge, and local insight that deepen the experience. If the tour leader makes sure the journey works, the tour guide makes sure it means something. There will be several tour guides on the ship and accompanying you on excursions.

A tour guide's expertise is usually focused on a particular place, subject, or region. While visiting an archaeological site, a guide may explain the historical significance of the ruins and the people who once lived there. In a national park, a naturalist guide may help guests spot wildlife, identify species, and interpret animal behaviour. In a city, a local guide might introduce visitors to neighbourhood traditions, architecture, cuisine, and contemporary life in ways that would be difficult to discover independently.

Consider a visit to a historic cathedral. The tour leader ensures that transportation arrives on time, tickets are ready, and the group knows where and when to meet. The tour guide explains the building's history, points out artistic details that might otherwise go unnoticed, and helps visitors understand its place in the region's culture and heritage. Similarly, during a wildlife excursion, the tour leader ensures everyone is present, equipped, and informed about the day's plans, while the guide focuses on finding wildlife, interpreting what is being observed, and answering questions about the ecosystem.

Together, the tour leader and tour guides provide two complementary forms of expertise. One is focused on the overall journey and the guest experience from beginning to end; the other is focused on revealing the character, history, culture, and natural wonders of the places being visited. Their roles overlap at times, but their primary responsibilities are distinct. The tour leader is responsible for the continuity of the trip, while the tour guides provide the specialized knowledge and local perspective that transform a visit into a deeper and more meaningful experience.

 

 

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During the last two days, Kelsey Bradley, Managing Director (Galapagos) of CNH Tours/Galapagos Travel, attended her first Annual General Meeting of the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF) as a Governing Member. While this was not directly related to CNH Tours/Galapagos Travel's work, it highlights our team’s connection and on-going roles in Galapagos. Kelsey shares her thoughts on the experience, as well as CDF updates, below:

 

Having worked at the Charles Darwin Research Station until 2018, I was excited to take part (virtually this year) and I knew that the meeting would be both engaging and informative. What I did not expect was just how inspiring it would be as well. If you've been to Galapagos before, you know first-hand how truly remarkable it is. Its magic and awe-inspiring beauty is in large part thanks to the many decades of hard work and dedication of those at the Foundation and its operational arm -- the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island. 

The AGM brought together members of the Foundation's General Assembly, Board of Directors, researchers, and selected staff. We were led by the incomparable Yolanda Kakabadse, who currently holds the position of President of the CDF. She kept everyone energized and inspired, while regular orders of business were conducted, just like any such organization’s annual general meeting. Throughout the meeting, I was struck by the remarkable advances being made across so many areas of conservation, research, and community engagement in Galápagos. Even compared to the updates shared just a few months earlier, during our last group encounter in November 2025, the pace of progress was impressive.

 

Remarks being made by CDF President, Yolanda Kakabadse

 

Participating in the discussions, workshops, and breakout groups was particularly rewarding. The sessions offered opportunities to exchange ideas, explore future priorities, and learn more about the challenges and opportunities facing conservation in the archipelago. For someone who spent many years at the Research Station, it was both professionally engaging and personally meaningful.

In many ways, attending the AGM felt like stepping back into a familiar world. Seeing former colleagues, hearing updates from staff, and learning about ongoing projects brought back countless memories of my years at the Station. At the same time, it was exciting to see how the organization has evolved and expanded its impact since I left.

Among the highlights were presentations from several of the Foundation's researchers. Dr. Nicolás Moity shared updates on the CDF's mangrove ecology and climate change work, including efforts to better understand the vital role Galápagos mangroves play in carbon storage, biodiversity conservation, and climate resilience. The scale and ambition of the project continue to grow as researchers gather new data on these critical coastal ecosystems. Did you know that the area of all mangroves worldwide would fit in the same geographical space as the Galapagos Marine Reserve?

Dr. Heinke Jäger provided updates on the Foundation's ongoing restoration of the endangered Scalesia forests, one of Galápagos' most unique and threatened habitats. She also discussed current research on invasive invertebrates and other introduced species, work that is essential to protecting the islands' fragile ecosystems. Her incredible work in Galapagos spans decades and is truly what is making it possible to share this unique archipelago with future generations.  

The last of the three presentations was from Dr. Miguel Pinto presented exciting developments related to the Foundation's Natural History Collections, including progress on the new collections housing facility. The project represents an important investment in preserving and expanding one of the most valuable scientific resources in Galápagos for future generations of researchers.

Lastly, as a surprise to most of us, the special K-9 unit “crashed” our meeting – what a great way to add excitement to the agenda! This particular dog had been specially-trained to detect Galapagos species, in order to help the authorities find and prosecute those attempting to bring flora and fauna out of the islands. While sad figures for the Galapagos flora and fauna, the special K-9 unit’s recent successes include finding 12 marine iguanas in the Guayaquil airport and 21,000 shark fins. The dogs and their training were a special donation to the CDF, made by one of its most ardent supporters and his friends. 

The "drop-in" guests to the AGM, with CDF Executive Director Rakan Zahawi

I left the AGM feeling energized, optimistic, and grateful to be part of the Charles Darwin Foundation community once again. The dedication, expertise, and passion of those involved is so very special. It was a powerful reminder that, while conservation challenges remain significant, so too does the commitment of those working every day to protect the extraordinary natural heritage of the Galápagos Islands. If you’d like to know more about the CDF’s incredible work, I’d welcome you to check out their site (here: darwinfoundation.org), or let me know – always happy to chat about it too!

 

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The Charles Darwin Foundation's AGM took place in Galapagos these last three days, with a surprise "drop in" by the Galapagos K-9 unit, trained to detect Galapagos species.

Published on the Instagram page of BitocaraECU today (below) / VISTAZO 

The trafficking of Galápagos’ unique wildlife does not stop. In addition to the four iguanas found near the Guayaquil Airport last week, 12 more marine iguanas were seized today, one of them dead, at the Guayaquil Airport. According to reports, three Thai citizens were detained when they attempted to take four iguanas each in their personal backpacks while boarding a KLM flight destined for Amsterdam and then Bangkok. Police reported that the three detainees had arrived in Guayaquil from Baltra earlier today, coming from the Galápagos National Park and Ecological Airport area.

The Ecuadorian Police, together with the National Unit for the Investigation of Environmental and Nature Crimes (UNIDCAN) and the Environmental Protection Unit (UPA), carried out the operation after customs inspections and airport security controls revealed the iguanas hidden inside black cloth bags in the backpacks. Upon opening the bags, officials discovered the animals and initiated legal proceedings with the Prosecutor’s Office, with the assistance of an interpreter.

It is evident that the 16 marine iguanas found in Guayaquil are not isolated incidents. We are facing an active international wildlife trafficking route that is bypassing controls in Galápagos, Baltra, and Guayaquil, and that authorities are failing to contain. The questions remain: How many marine and land iguanas have already been successfully smuggled out? How many tortoises?

Mr. Minister of the Environment Juan Carlos Bion, this is happening while you remain focused on promoting the country abroad and organizing workshops, while leaving park rangers without the tools and resources needed for patrols throughout the country. If this can happen in Galápagos, with its most protected species, what can be expected in mainland Ecuador?

CNH Tours invites its readers to reading other stories of wildlife trafficking:

Giant Tortoise Heist is Foiled

Tortoise thief placed in preventive detention

Smuggling of Marine Iguanas Thwarted by K-9 Corps

German Iguana Smuggler Gets 4 Years!

 

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For nearly two decades, Madagascar has held a special place in the hearts of many of our travellers thanks to the passion, knowledge and infectious enthusiasm of British-born Richard Parsons. As we look ahead to our 2026 trip — Richard’s final tour leadership role in Madagascar — we do so with deep gratitude for the remarkable contribution he has made to these journeys since first creating the program in 2008.

Richard’s connection with Madagascar goes back much further. In 1991, he established the first international study program for American students in the country, drawing on his own experience living and working there. Over the years, his career has spanned naturalist guiding in the Galápagos Islands, academic leadership, conservation work, and ecotourism. Today, as co-owner of the pioneering Bellavista Cloud Forest Lodge outside of Quito, he continues to dedicate himself to protecting biodiversity and inspiring others to appreciate the natural world.

Richard: Never afraid to get involved

Richard’s legacy, however, is not only the tours he built, but also the people he has helped bring into the CNH Tours family. We are especially excited that 2026 will also introduce travellers to two exceptional Malagasy-based leaders: Ony Rakotoarivelo and Kasia Bialous.

Ony brings an extraordinary combination of cultural insight, guiding experience, and humanitarian commitment. A longtime contributor to the respected Bradt Madagascar guidebook series, she has spent decades helping visitors understand Madagascar beyond its famous wildlife — through its people, traditions, and daily life. Together with Kasia, she has also devoted years to supporting vulnerable communities through the Ankizy Gasy Foundation.

 

Ony: She knows Madagascar down to its roots!

Kasia’s own story is equally inspiring. Originally from Poland, she first came to Madagascar as a volunteer and ultimately made the island her home. Today, through both humanitarian initiatives and responsible tourism, she and Ony help travellers experience a Madagascar that few outsiders ever truly see.

Kasia: Big heart and big love for Madagascar and its people

 

As one chapter closes and another begins, we could not imagine a more fitting transition. Richard’s remarkable legacy will continue in excellent hands.

Learn more about our Madagascar trip

 

IS MADAGASCAR ON YOUR LIST OF PLACES TO EXPERIENCE?

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 MADAGASCAR ADVANCE NOTIFICATION LIST.   

 

 

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El Niño and the Galápagos: certainty remains elusive

CNH Tours owners first arrived in Galapagos at the tail end of the last severe El Niño to affect the islands (1997-98).  Conditions were very warm and humid, there was plenty of rain.  Sea temperatures were very warm (no wetsuits needed!).  These conditions reduced the productivity of the marine ecosystems and had a devastating effect on most species that depended on the sea for food (marine iguanas, penguins, sea birds etc...).  In contrast, terrestrial ecosystems, with the good rains, thrived.  

We are now seeing an upsurge in social media mentions of a possible El Niño affecting Galapagos this coming year. Is this warranted?  Should visitors be concerned?

We've seen this before.  The U.S. National Atmospheric and Oceanographic Administration (NOAA - thank you US for operating this excellent organization) regularly publishes predictions on the chances and severity of an El Niño event and updates them monthly.  

But how accurate are these predictions?  And when they are correct, how does a predicted El Niño affect the visitor experience in Galapagos? 

NOAA's Sea Surface Temperatures - how much they depart from average in the past 4 weeks.  Galapagos waters show as having been 1-2 degrees Celsius warmer than average.

Looking at the NOAA page, you'll read that there is currently a 61% chance of an El Niño developing in 2026. Yet if there is one consistent lesson from decades of observation, it is that El Niño is inherently difficult to predict in timing, strength and local effects. The system itself is irregular, cycling every two to seven years but with wide variability in intensity and duration. Even major events have defied expectations—arriving late, peaking differently than forecast, or weakening unexpectedly. For travellers and planners alike, this means that while probabilities can be assigned, the lived conditions in the Galápagos cannot be forecast with precision months in advance.

Over the past 30 years, the Pacific has produced roughly 8–10 El Niño events, depending on classification thresholds. These include notable episodes in 1997–98, 2002–03, 2009–10, 2015–16, and 2023–24, alongside several weaker events. However, only a small subset—principally the 1997–98 event, and less so the 2015–16 event —qualify as having had a significant effect in Galapagos. These are the episodes that left a clear imprint in the islands: elevated sea temperatures, disrupted marine food chains, coral bleaching, and visible changes in wildlife behaviour. In contrast, most weaker or moderate El Niño years produced far subtler, often barely perceptible impacts for visitors.

This distinction is critical. While all El Niño events share the same underlying mechanism—warmer ocean temperatures and reduced upwelling—their ecological consequences in Galapagos are not usually important. A weak event may simply mean warmer water and greener landscapes; a strong event can temporarily restructure entire marine ecosystems. Even then, impacts vary by location within the archipelago and by timing within the event. As a result, two El Niño years can deliver markedly different visitor experiences, despite being driven by the same climatic phenomenon.

For 2026–27, the outlook points toward a moderate event, with some risk of stronger conditions. But history suggests caution: only a minority of El Niño episodes materially alter the Galápagos experience, and those that do are difficult to anticipate with confidence until they are well underway.  Plain English Conclusion: Based on previous experience, it's way too early to tell if an El Niño of any strength will have an effect of any significance on the Galapagos visitor experience over the next 12 months.  

For visitors, the implication is less about avoiding El Niño than understanding its variability. The islands remain compelling in all phases—what changes is not whether the experience is worthwhile, but the particular character it takes in any given year.

 

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April 22, 2026 

Samba On Sale for Summer of 2026! 

For all new bookings on the Samba for departures no later than 25 August 2026, the ship owner is offering a US$ 1,100 discount per person booking on a share or solo basis.  This sale includes both Active Galapagos and Open departures throughout May, June, July and August 2026. 

Beyond this, the owner of the Samba is waiving the fuel surcharge for all new bookings that are expected to take place before December 31, 2027. 

Please contact us for current availabilities. 

 

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If your Galápagos plans include Española Island, and if you plan on being there from between (about) mid-April to November / December) you’re in for one of the archipelago’s most distinctive wildlife spectacles: the waved albatross (Phoebastria irrorata). Unlike most seabirds, nearly the entire global population comes ashore here to breed, turning the island into a stage of clacking beaks, synchronized head-bobbing, and long, deliberate courtship rituals. It’s a surprisingly elegant performance—and one that rewards a bit of patience from visitors.

Timing matters. Birds begin arriving in April, eggs are laid through May and June, and the first chicks typically hatch in late June, with fluffy youngsters dotting the colony through July. By late summer, many chicks are already stretching their wings and preparing for their first flights. Visit in this window and you’ll see the full arc: attentive parents, awkward juveniles, and the occasional dramatic takeoff from cliff edges as adults head out over the Pacific.

CNH Tours' naturalist guide friends who navigate the archipelago on a regular basis reported in this week that there are currently plenty of males - and females are starting to arrive as well.   Punta Suarez is the visitor site that allows guests to "walk among the albatross". 

What makes the experience especially memorable is how accessible it is. Trails on Española Island bring you within clear view of the nesting grounds, and because the birds evolved without land predators, they’re remarkably tolerant of quiet observers. Keep a respectful distance, follow your guide’s lead, and you’ll find yourself watching a life cycle unfold at close range—one that plays out almost nowhere else on Earth.

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