"Is itinerary X better than itinerary Y?"

We often get asked this question from guests trying to decide which ship / itinerary to book.  Commenting on the quality of a particular itinerary over the years has led us to dig a little deeper and to identify variables that contribute to a good itinerary.  Surprisingly, it’s not much about which visitor sites the ship takes you to.  There are other more important variables we keep in mind - variables that if you pin down, then the issue of visitor sites takes care of itself. 

But before we get into that, it’s important to understand how ship itineraries are designed in the first place. 

HOW ARE ITINERARIES MANAGED?

In Galapagos, as per National Park rules, all ships must follow a 14-night / 15-day circuit during which time they may not stop at a particular visitor site more than once (there are a few exceptions).  These itineraries may be divided into shorter segments.   Typically, segments consist of 2 x 7-night itineraries, or a combination of shorter ones.  Itineraries may be proposed by a ship, but the Galapagos National Park Service has the final say. 

Every ship’s itinerary is clearly described in a document emitted by the park (the “patente”).  A ship must adhere to the itinerary defined therein.   Using a few small patrol boats, the Park will occasionally carry out monitoring trips at sea to be sure each expedition cruise ship is adhering to its itinerary.  It’s also not unusual for ships to report on each other if one is  not respecting its patente. 

A patente will indicate which visitor sites a ship can go to, in what order, and at what times of the day.  Typically, the patente will give windows for visitation periods (for example, “from 6-8AM” or “from 8-10AM) and indicate which types of activities are permitted there (hiking, snorkeling, zodiac rides, kayaking/paddleboarding).  

This system has helped ensure the quality of the visitor experience.  No visitor site ends up being overloaded with people.   Between applying this system and also capping the capacity of the Galapagos expedition ship fleet (both in ship numbers and ship size), the Galapagos National Park Directorate has received widespread recognition around the world for its excellent expedition-ship visitor management work. 

WHAT FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO A SUPERIOR ITINERARY?

While most ships will touch upon a common set of visitor sites over the course of their 15 circuits (with some variation and exceptions), how they do it will vary from ship to ship.   The elements we consider in making a judgement on an itinerary include:

UNINTERRUPTED: As noted, all ships must follow a 15-day circuit, but no ship actually runs a full 15-day uninterrupted itinerary.  They will all divide the 15 days into shorter segments.  When ship-based tourism first started, uninterrupted itineraries typically consisted of 7 nights / 8 days on board.  Combining two such segments takes the ship through its full 15 day circuit.    But over time, in response to what ships perceived as market demand, more and more ships further segmented their circuits, offering shorter and shorter itineraries.  It’s now possible to embark on a 2-night / 3-day cruise (very few ships offer it – but it’s possible).   More common are ship segments consisting of 4, 5 and 6 days.  In these cases, a 15-day circuit can be divided into two 6-day and one 5-day segments, for example.

Regardless of the itinerary length you choose, we believe that it’s better to ensure it’s uninterrupted.  That means that while you’ll be on board, your ship will not be dropping off / picking up guests who are on the ship for shorter itinerary segments. An interrupted itinerary  has several drawbacks: 

1. The ship must go back to a port to drop off / pick up guests, preventing it from venturing off to distant reaches of the archipelago.
2. During the pick-up and drop-off times, the visitor experience for those not disembarking can be second rate – with the possibility of wasted time as you wait, or are being taken to second rate visitor sites near the port.
3. With a new group of guests on board (and possibly new naturalist guides), you will find the naturalist guides repeating the talks they gave you already. You’ll be going through another safety drill as well. 
4. A change in guests half-way through your trip, and possibly a change in naturalist guides and crew will make it harder for you to develop a sense of shared experience and camaraderie with your fellow travellers (which is often a significant part of the experience).

RECOMMENDATION:  Look for uninterrupted itineraries if possible.  Avoid choosing an itinerary that is a composite of shorter segments.

AVERAGE DISTANCE TRAVELLED / VISITOR SITE:  Some ship itineraries follow a logical progression through the archipelago, while other ships follow circuitous routes.   Following a poorly designed itinerary will have you spending more time underway, and it may put the captain under a certain amount of pressure to weigh anchor and get going to the next visitor site, which may require several hours of navigation.  This might mean that your naturalist guides will also be under pressure to have you back on board, possibly cutting short your time at a visitor site. 

Below, we show examples of two contrasting 8 day itineraries:

FIG. 1:  CIRCUITOUS ITINERARY

The itinerary above (a 100-passenger luxury ship) follows a circuitous route.  It navigates for over 320kms (200 miles), back and forth to the western side of the archipelago, only to stop at two visitor sites there.  It backtracks and then heads off to the easternmost visitor site in the islands.    Guests on this ship will be navigating an average of 88 kms (55 miles) / visitor site. 

FIG 2: LOGICAL ITINERARY

Above, we see an itinerary that maximizes the number of sites visited over the course of an 8 day. In this case (a 14-passenger tourist superior ship), guests on board will navigate  38 kms (24 miles) per visitor site, making for a much less hurried schedule.

A smaller visitor site to kms of navigation ratio contributes to a better overall visitor experience in our minds.

NUMBER OF TOWNS VISITED: While getting to experience “town life” in Galapagos contributes to one’s overall sense of discovery, and while we think it’s absolutely worthwhile doing so (we lived in Galapagos for 4 years after all!), we do believe that you are not flying all the way to Galapagos to spend an excessive amount of time in towns. For this reason, we favour itineraries which limit time spent in urban areas.  In figure 1 above, guests on that itinerary will spending time in two towns (Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), while those following the itinerary in figure 2 will spend time in only one town (Puerto Ayora).  Guests keen on experiencing island life are encouraged to extend their time in Galapagos post-cruise for a few days (it can be a lot more economical to visit towns based in a hotel than on a ship!), allowing them to get the land-legs back and to decompress.  We offer that option for our trips. 

NUMBER OF VISITOR SITES / DAY: At the end of the day, we assume you want to be exposed to the greatest diversity of Galapagos ecosystems and landscapes both above and below the sea while in Galapagos.  The more visitor sites you experience, the greater the depth and breadth of your overall experience.   In this regard, we consider the number of visitor sites / day for an itinerary, and the higher the number, the better the itinerary.  For example, most ships will squeeze in a final visitor site on the last day of a cruise, before having guests disembark.  But some ships don’t.  They feed you breakfast and take you to the airport.  These kinds of factors make a difference to the overall itinerary quality.  

NUMBER OF “NON-VISITOR” SITES: Some visitor sites are underwhelming.  Of course, it can be subjective.  But in our minds, the following sites do not warrant being included on an itinerary:

1. Whale watching: Some ships include this as an activity in the afternoon (with nothing else on the program) – typically as a fill-in for a long navigation. In reality, you can whale watch anytime while navigating in the archipelago.
2. Circumnavigation of an island: Typically either Daphne Major, or Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock), we do not consider sailing around an island as a quality visitor experience.  
3. Visiting a museum: There is one museum in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (a bit long in the tooth now).  While it provides interesting insights on the history of Galapagos,  frankly, you won't learn anything news if you've already gone through a decent Galapagos guide book, and missing out on a hike / snorkel or other activity in exchange for a museum visit is not recommended, in our minds.   Typically, this visitor site is included for those whose itineraries are interrupted, and the ship has to disembark/embark new guests on shorter segments of your longer cruise. 

 

HOW ABOUT THE RELATIVE QUALITY OF VISITOR SITES ON A PARTICULAR ITINERARY?

Not all visitor sites provide the same experience.  Some are commonly understood by visitors (at least those most active on social media) as being among the most spectacular, while others are considered rather dull.  

It’s not that simple. 

There are a variety of attributes that contribute to the quality of a visitor site.  Some of those attributes are constant (example: The otherworldly volcanic landscape), while others are seasonal (example: Nesting waved albatross). Other attributes are haphazard (example: Nesting blue footed boobies – who nest opportunistically – you never know when).  

Some sites have beautiful beaches that are much appreciated after a long and busy day – but otherwise offer little in terms of wildlife.   Is that a good visitor site?  It’s in the eye of the beholder of course.

Most 8-day itineraries that rate well against the criteria above will expose you to a similar subset of visitor sites, wildlife experiences, hiking and snorkeling options and more.  We suggest that you should not be overly concerned about which individual visitor sites you will be experiencing on each itinerary as a way to compare itineraries.  Trying to make sense of all the combinations and permutations of different visitor sites on different itineraries will take you on the road to feeling absolutely overwhelmed.

Only if you are determined to witness a particular species in the wild (for instance, the flightless cormorant or the waved albatross) should you look closely at the component visitor sites on an itinerary.  We can of course help you with that. 

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