Our Okavango-Kalahari colleague and tour leader, Dr. Karen Ross attended the UK premiere of "A Life Among Elephants" last week, at the Royal Geographical Society's headquarters in London.  

The film celebrates to work of "Save the Elephants" founder, Dr. Ian Douglas-Hamilton and his nearly 60-year extraordinary mission to protect wild African elephants.  

Karen Ross, worked closely with him in her formative years when she was carrying out her post-graduate research.   

Karen reported back to us on the event:

"In late November the UK's premiere of 'A Life Among Elephants' was held  at the Royal Geographic Society in London to support the protection of elephants and a fundraiser for the charity Save the Elephants. It was an honour to be part of this special event to celebrate Dr Iain Douglas-Hamilton's 60 year mission to protect wild African elephants. It was also a step back in time to the late 1970's and early 1980's when I worked with Iain as he valiantly took on the horrific ivory poaching scourge that was decimating elephants across Africa, and Kenya and Tanzania in particular. Dr. Douglas Hamilton's fight for the protection of elephants culminated in the world's first "ivory burn" in 1989 when the President of Kenya symbolically set light to a 12 ton stockpile of ivory seized during the previous decade of poaching. It was to send a message, not only about the destruction of Kenya's elephants, but also to the causal effect of the rocketing ivory trade, and a desperate measure to take all ivory out of circulation. Less than two months later, on October 17th 1989, the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) enforced a worldwide ban on the sale of ivory. Immediately elephant poaching was reduced, and elephant numbers began to stabilise in East Africa. 

Botswana became a safe haven for elephants during this time, and now has the largest population of elephants in the world, numbering over 132,000 elephants and more than half of all of Africa's herd."

See the movie trailer here. 

CNH Tours owner, Marc Patry, had the chance to meet Ian on a couple of occasions when he was working for the UN in Nairobi - "He certainly left an I've-seen-it-all kind of impression on me" he reports. 

 

 Ivory burn in Kenya: The only way to be sure that confiscated ivory doesn't make it into the ivory trade

 

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal / Tuscany

 Contact us for more information

CNH Tours helps approximately 500 a year plan their ideal Galapagos expedition cruise – and almost all these people will spend some time in Quito on their way to Galapagos.  Most spend 2 nights in the city, and many add on longer mainland extensions there.  Most are in their 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.   

Since 1999, when we first started helping people organize their Galapagos expeditions, we have had only one situation when a guest (a 73 year-old woman) had fairly serious health issues that could have been exacerbated by the altitude – though no definitive conclusions were reached in that regard.  

Based on our experience, there are fair chances you’ll feel some of the symptoms of altitude sickness, but these will be minor.  Overall, you should not be terribly concerned about being significantly affected by altitude sickness – but it never hurts to understand what the risks are. 

Quito sits at about 2,850 meters or 9,350 feet above sea level.  For the sake of comparison, the air pressure inside your plane on the way to Quito is equivalent to an altitude of roughly 1,800 to 2,400 meters (about 6,000 to 8,000 feet) above sea level.  According to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, at this altitude, the risk of feeling mild symptoms is moderately high, though the risk of serious complications is relatively low if precautions are taken.

Symptoms of mild altitude sickness are usually manageable and can include:

• Headaches
• Light-headedness or dizziness
• Nausea or loss of appetite
• Shortness of breath, especially during physical activity
• Trouble sleeping

These symptoms generally subside within 24-48 hours as the body begins to acclimate. However, if symptoms worsen, it’s essential to take them seriously, as they can indicate more severe forms of altitude sickness.

Mitigating Measures

• Stay Hydrated: Higher altitude air is dryer.  Dehydration can worsen symptoms.
• Avoid Alcohol and Sleeping Pills: These can interfere with acclimatization.
• Monitor Symptoms Closely: Be attentive to any unusual symptoms and seek medical attention if symptoms worsen.

Statistical Risks and Age-Related Factors

Studies indicate that roughly 30-40% of people traveling from low altitudes to elevations between 2,500 and 3,000 meters (8,200 and 9,800 feet) experience some form of altitude sickness, with most cases being mild to moderate. Older adults do not necessarily have a higher susceptibility to altitude sickness solely due to age; instead, underlying health conditions and reduced physiological resilience can increase the likelihood of complications.

Serious Altitude Sickness: These conditions are very rare at elevations below 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) with a risk of less than 1%. However, older adults with underlying heart or lung conditions may have an elevated risk of experiencing more pronounced symptoms due to decreased oxygen levels.

Considerations for Older Adults

Age can indirectly increase altitude sickness risks due to several factors, such as lower lung function, cardiovascular challenges, or the presence of chronic conditions (e.g., hypertension, respiratory disease). Studies have shown that older adults may experience more shortness of breath and fatigue, but with proper acclimatization strategies, most older travelers can avoid severe altitude sickness.  We recommend that you consult with a doctor if you are managing conditions like heart disease or respiratory illness.

How about the Quito Cable Car to Cruz Loma, on Pichincha Volcano?

The Quito cable car takes you to the Cruz Loma lookout on Pichincha volcano.  It is one of the highest aerial lifts in the world, rising from 3,117 m (10,226 ft) to 3,945 m (12,943 ft).  If you take the approximately half-mile / 1km trail to the famous swings, you’ll be adding another 45 m / 145 ft in altitude. At this level, you will most likely feel symptoms of altitude sickness, particularly if you are exerting yourself (going up a flight of stairs, walking along a trail).  You may feel your heart rate accelerate as it tries to compensate for the lower oxygen levels at this altitude.  If you’re planning to enjoy this spectacular view, we recommend you just walk slowly, and take a break every minute or two to catch your breath.  There’s no rush!

Chris (66 years old) swings from the clouds on the upper slopes of Pichincha volcano (apx. 13,100 feet / 4,000 m) 

Conclusion

For healthy adults of any age, the risk of severe altitude sickness in Quito is low, though mild symptoms are common. With a few precautions, the vast majority of visitors can safely enjoy Quito without major concerns.

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal / Tuscany

 Contact us for more information

Over the past several months, mainland Ecuador (not Galapagos) has been dealing with rolling blackouts of various durations.   An unusually long dry spell has left the country’s hydro-electric reservoirs severely depleted, forcing the authorities to ration out electricity. 

In normal circumstances, Ecuador produces 80% of its electricity needs through renewable sources, positioning the country as a leader in clean energy in Latin America. But when the rains fail, things can get difficult. 

No rain - no electricity at the Paute dam

Things have become more difficult recently, with citizens having to do without electricity for up to 14 hours / day.

Mercedes, our Quito -based colleague in charge of helping our guests plan their mainland extensions writes: “for this week, in my house the power outages is from 7:00 to 15:00 and from 18:00 to 24:00”.

Mercedes goes on to report on how this affects daily life:

“This problem is affecting the economy severely. Big companies have their power plants, but small businesses don´t. They can have small generators but they will not be enough for so many hours. 

I have a very small generator that help to have internet for a couple hours, but nothing more.  And at the moment, there are no generators available. You can buy one, but now they are over the $1000 and you have to wait a couple weeks to get one.

Regarding our guests, I don’t think this will affect them. The hotel has a big generator that supplies the entire hotel, both rooms, hot water, WIFI and social areas. The airport is working normally, as is the cable car. Most restaurants have also their own generator.  Maybe the traffic could be a little complicated, as there are no traffic lights. In this case, during the full day Quito, it could take some more time to go for example to the cable car or return to the historic center.

The driver to and from the airport will not be affected as we use the highways.  All the lodges as Mashpi, Bellavista, have their own generators as well. 

What is affected is the cell phone use. Sometimes, it’s difficult to have signal duing the power outage. 

Since yesterday it has rained again where the hydroelectric dams are located. I hope it continues raining!  It seems that with the rain of these days, the power outages hours will be reduced. Hopefully. Until the government announced something different, we continue with the power outages between 10 to 14 hours daily."

Our other Quito-based colleague (Tannya, who helps match ships/itineraries/dates with guest requirements) reports:

“As in Quito and all cities in the country, some stores in the historic center have a generator for a few hours, in effect, it causes noise and pollution, but they try to get ahead with their activities. In the case of hotels and big restaurants, they have their generators for the whole day.  The Tour Bus is offering the visits regularly.  The power outage in Quito,as all cities, varies weekly by sector. This week the power outage in my area is from 6 to 11AM and 3 to 11PM.”

Based on the reports we have from our colleagues, it seems that our guests can still enjoy a relatively problem free visit to mainland Ecuador.

In Galapagos, power is generated mainly by oil-fired electrical generators, augmented by some aeolian generators. 

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 Contact us for more information

CNH Tours is pleased to announce the appointment of a new front-office team member - Tina Fitter.   With 65 expedition cruise ships plying Galapagos waters, finding the one that aligns best with a prospective guest's expectations can be a mammoth task.  Tina's job will be to work with our guests and help them sift through the mountains of often conflicting information and, we hope, find a sihp and an itinerary that works best for them.  

MORE ABOUT TINA

Born and raised in Berkshire England, Tina always had a sense for adventure.  As a young girl, she enjoyed heading off into the local woods, climbing trees and walking the British countryside – she was a budding naturalist.  But adventure personified made his apparition in 1992, when she met Daniel Fitter in Dorset, southwest England.   Daniel, a Galapagos native and veteran Galapagos naturalist guide, was in the UK on a mission to see more of the world while Tina was working locally as a nanny – that’s where they met.  To cut a long story short, Tina and Daniel were married in 1993, and she first set foot in Galapagos in 1995.

Based in Puerto Ayora, Tina straight away started working for one of the early tour agencies.  She sat in the office of the legendary Moonrise Travel, right on the Puerto Ayora main street.  She also managed ground arrangements for small expedition cruise ships – assigning naturist guides, ensuring food and supplies were delivered, staff was informed of schedules and dealing with all kinds of issues that pop up unexpectedly when working with ships. Over the years, Tina acquired a wide experience and knowledge of how the tours are designed and the kind of ships that are available.  She has participated in innumerable expedition cruises and scientific outings, giving her a deep, first-hand understanding of what the islands are all about.   

Tina comes across as a passionate advocate for the islands – keen on sharing her excitement, sense of wonder (and good humour!).   When she has some time to spare, she’s particularly bent on going snorkeling, hoping to cross paths with penguins and, more rarely, dolphins. “Having penguins darting about so close to me brings me so much fun, joy and is very exhilarating. Dolphins are a surreal experience, not just swimming with them but also hearing them - when I get out of the water, I can’t believe what I have just experienced.”

She’s thrilled to be joining the CNH Tours / Galapagos Travel team and looking forward to helping prospective guests make informed decisions on a Galapagos adventure most suited to their travel styles and expectations. 

Tina joins Daniela (also in Galapagos), Kelsey and Heather (both in Ottawa, but with a combined 12 years's experience living and working in Galapagos) at our virtual front office.  Welcome Tina!

 

A common question we get from guests considering or preparing a trip to Galapagos is "what's the national currency?". 

The short answer is "the US dollar".  Below you'll find the long answer.  

 

In January 2000, Ecuador made the dramatic decision to adopt the U.S. dollar as its official currency, a move triggered by a deep economic crisis that had plunged the nation into economic turmoil.

Throughout the late 1990s, Ecuador was hit by a perfect storm of financial mismanagement, natural disasters and external shocks. The price of oil, a crucial export, plummeted, while the devastating effects of El Niño battered the agricultural sector.  Bank fraud played an important role - the collapse of Ecuador’s banking system was marked by corruption, poor regulation, and mismanagement. The resulting economic downturn spiraled into hyperinflation, with annual inflation soaring above 60%, eroding the value of Ecuador’s currency, the sucre, and pushing millions of Ecuadorians deeper into poverty.

USD-Sucre exchange rate. We arived in Ecuador in July 1998, just in time for "the fun".  

The crisis came to a head in early 1999 (CNH Tours co-founders were living in Galapagos). As banks began to collapse, depositors saw their savings evaporate due to rapid inflation, and in a desperate move, the government froze bank accounts that March to prevent a complete financial meltdown.  On a Friday that month, the exchange rate was at about 18,000 sucres to the dollar.  In a surprise move, accounts across the country were frozen for a week, during which time everyone’s savings were replaced by dollars, but at a rate of 25,000 sucres to the dollar – translating into a huge loss for all depositors.

5,000 sucres: Worth about US$0.27 the week before dollarization, and US$0.20 the week after dollarization.

The logic behind dollarization was simple: by adopting the U.S. dollar, Ecuador hoped to stabilize its economy, restore confidence, and tame the runaway inflation that had wreaked havoc on daily life. The sucre had become virtually worthless, and with few alternatives left, dollarization seemed like the only viable option.

By July 2000, the U.S. dollar officially replaced the sucre. The immediate effect was a sharp drop in inflation, and economic stability slowly returned. However, the decision came with a price: Ecuador forfeited control over its monetary policy, leaving it vulnerable to U.S. Federal Reserve decisions.

For many, the shift to the U.S. dollar was a bitter pill to swallow, but for a country on the brink of economic collapse, it provided a lifeline, restoring a degree of stability to a deeply fractured economy.

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 Contact us for more information

Almost 25 years ago - on October 7, 1999, under an uncharacteristically cloudless sky, the Pichincha volcano, towering over Ecuador’s capital city, Quito, erupted in a dramatic and terrifying display of nature’s power. The event marked the first major eruption of the volcano since 1660, spewing ash and volcanic debris across the region. In the early hours of that Thursday morning, a thick column of ash was propelled several kilometers into the sky, turning day into twilight over Quito and its surrounding areas.

As the ash cloud spread, residents were forced to wear masks and goggles to protect themselves from the fine, abrasive particles. Flights were grounded, and schools and businesses shut down as the city grappled with the fallout. The ashfall covered streets, buildings, and cars in a layer of grey dust, disrupting daily life. Though no fatalities were reported, the eruption caused widespread respiratory problems, with hospitals treating people for eye and throat irritation. Public officials urged people to stay indoors, and emergency teams worked around the clock to clear roads and assist the most affected areas.

The eruption was part of a broader pattern of volcanic activity in the region, and while authorities had been monitoring Pichincha closely, the intensity of the event took many by surprise. For days, Quito's residents lived under the looming threat of further eruptions, anxiously watching the sky as they sought to return to a sense of normalcy. The eruption of Pichincha on October 7, 1999, remains a vivid reminder of the unpredictable force of the Andean volcanoes that stand sentinel over Ecuador.

There are many volcanoes in Ecuador, up to 100 depending on how you count them - several are located in Galapagos.  Many Ecuadorian volcanoes are considered active.   

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 Contact us for more information

That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been saved from being released into the atmosphere due to our trips from January to June 2024 - thanks to CNH Tours' participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.   It took longer this semester to publish our results due to Gold Standards stricter reporting and due diligence requirements, requiring us to submit various bits of paperwork.  But all is good! 

The Gold Standard is rated as among the top best carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  For Galapagos, this amounts to the CO2 emitted by the domestic flight to the islands and to those emitted by the expedition cruise ship.

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own "Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide"

 

 

 

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 

 Contact us for more information

   

Those of you considering one of our signature trips (Active Galapagos / Natural History Tours / Photography Workshops) have likely come upon our unusual trip names.  Amon them, you’ll find the names of animals and plants of Galapagos, island names (both the Spanish and English language versions), the names of champions of wildlife conservation or pioneers of evolutionary biology and the names of volcanoes or volcanic terminology.

The animal, plant and island names are obvious choices (animals/plants for even numbered years, and islands for odd numbered years).  We try to choose a representative sample, but at the same time, we’re constrained by wanting to have them appear in alphabetical order.   It’s all a bit of fun for us to choose these names.

For example, for our Active Galapagos trips:

Peperomia (Peperomia galapagensis):  A succulent epiphyte (growing on other plants), found only in Galapagos highlands, where conditions are more often moist.

 

Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliates): The American Oystercatcher bird is found all along the Pacific coast and in some areas of the Atlantic Ocean. In the Galapagos, they are found in the intertidal zone of most islands. Their population isn't big; around 400 birds live in the archipelago.

 

Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus): Possibly more iconic than the giant tortoise, the marine iguana conjures up the creature from the black lagoon…  The only lizard on Earth that feeds underwater.

 

 

Indefatigable (a.k.a. Santa Cruz Island):  Named by the British in honour of the HMS Indefatigable, a British Royal Navy ship.. The HMS Indefatigable was likely named for its role in significant naval engagements, and the island was named during the period when British explorers and naval officers were charting the Pacific.

 

Los Gemelos - sinkholes on the summit of Indefatigable (Santa Cruz) Island

 

Marchena Island: Named after Fray Antonio de Marchena, a Spanish friar. He is believed to have been an influential figure in the Spanish exploration of the New World, and his name was given to this island as a tribute. Like many other Galápagos Islands, it was named during the period of Spanish colonial exploration. Only two ships visit this island, once every two weeks each - and one of them is the Samba, used on our Active Galapagos trips (Born of Fire itinerary).  The snorkeling here is considered among the best in Galapagos by the naturalist guides. 

 

 

For our Natural History Tours, we’ve decided to use the names of people who’ve made significant contributions to nature conservation either through their scientific exploits, their advocacy and/or their tireless fieldwork.  

Carson: Rachel Carson (1907 – 1964) was a pioneering American marine biologist and conservationist whose work significantly shaped the modern environmental movement. Her groundbreaking book, Silent Spring (1962), raised awareness about the dangers of pesticide use, particularly DDT, and its detrimental effects on ecosystems and human health. Carson's meticulous research and compelling prose highlighted the interconnectedness of all living organisms and the impact of human actions on the environment. Her advocacy for responsible environmental stewardship led to increased public awareness, policy changes, and ultimately the establishment of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

 

 

Earle: Sylvia Earle (1935 - ), is a renowned marine biologist, explorer, and conservationist, often referred to as "Her Deepness" for her deep-sea explorations. Throughout her career, Earle has been a passionate advocate for ocean conservation, highlighting the importance of marine ecosystems and the urgent need to protect them from threats such as pollution, overfishing, and climate change. She played a pivotal role in the establishment of marine protected areas and has led numerous underwater expeditions, contributing to scientific research and public awareness of ocean health. Earle's work emphasizes the interconnectedness of life and the necessity of preserving the oceans for future generations, making her a leading figure in the global conservation movement.

 

Huxley: Julian Huxley (1887–1975), a prominent British evolutionary biologist. He was the grandson of Thomas Henry Huxley (Charles Darwin’s main advocate) and the brother of writer Aldous Huxley of “Brave New World” fame.  Julian Huxley was the first Director-General of UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) from 1946 to 1948. He was a key figure in the development of the organization's founding principles, emphasizing the importance of science and international cooperation in solving global issues. Huxley was also a noted advocate for evolutionary humanism, a philosophy he outlined in his work. He believed that humanity could consciously shape its own evolution through scientific advancement and education. 

 

Merlen:  Godfrey Merlen (1944-2023) was British by upbringing but a Galapagos resident since the 1970’s.  He was a champion of Galapagos conservation who dedicated much of his life to protecting and studying the Galápagos Islands.  A former colleague of CNH Tours founders, he became a key figure in various conservation efforts, particularly in marine conservation. Merlen was instrumental in promoting the protection of the Galápagos Marine Reserve and worked closely with local and international organizations to safeguard the islands' fragile ecosystems.  He loved messing about with boats.

 

 

Ortiz: Fernando I. Ortiz-Crespo (1942 – 2001) was an Ecuadorian biologist and ornithologist known for his pioneering research on hummingbirds. He made significant contributions to the study of Ecuador’s rich biodiversity, particularly focusing on the taxonomy and behavior of hummingbirds. Ortiz-Crespo was a professor at the Pontifical Catholic University of Ecuador and contributed to various conservation initiatives aimed at protecting Ecuador’s unique wildlife.

 

 

Wallace: Alfred Russel Wallace (1823 – 1913) was a British naturalist and biogeographer who is best known for independently formulating the theory of evolution through natural selection – and prompting Darwin to publish his theory before Wallace received full credit for it.  Wallace's extensive fieldwork in the Amazon Basin and the Malay Archipelago provided invaluable insights into biodiversity and the distribution of species.  Wallace was an early proponent of the idea that humans have a responsibility to conserve the natural world, emphasizing the need to protect ecosystems to ensure the survival of species. His contributions laid the groundwork for modern conservation biology and inspired future generations of naturalists and conservationists.

 

 

Watson: Paul Watson (1950 - ) is a Canadian-American environmental, conservation and animal rights activist, who founded the Sea Shepherd Society, an anti-poaching and direct action group focused on marine conservation activism. In the past, he has provide material support to the Galapagos National Park in the form of a patrol vessel.  

 

 

For our Photography Workshops, we decided to focus on volcanoes and volcano-themed terms, seeing that the Galapagos archipelago owes its existence to volcanic activity.  

Alcedo: Alcedo Volcano (1,130 m / 3,707 ft) is located mid-way between the southern and northern tips of Isabela Island.  It is still active, with fumaroles emitting columns of steam from inside its caldera. We’ve had the chance to hike to the top and walk around the caldera – a very impressive hike. 

 

 

La Cumbre:  La Cumbre volcano (1,476 metres / 4,843 ft) forms Fernandina Island, the westernmost, youngest and most pristine of the large Galapagos islands.  Still quite active with eruptions happening every few years.

 

 

Pahoehoe:  Pahoehoe is a type of lava with a smooth, billowy, or ropy surface that forms when basaltic lava flows spread out and cool. The word "pahoehoe" comes from Hawaiian and literally means "smooth".  You’ll see samples of this lava rock while exploring the islands.

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 

 Contact us for more information

 

We’re in New York City this week.  While we are here mostly on a “working holiday”, our visit coincides with the United Nations General Assembly (UNGA). The UNGA is the central forum for member states to discuss global issues, coordinate international cooperation, and shape international law and policy.  Many heads of state are in town along with us! 

In 2000, the UNGA launched the Global Compact - a voluntary initiative designed to encourage businesses and organizations worldwide to adopt sustainable and socially responsible policies, and to report on their implementation. 

The event (hosted by Canadian jewelry brand Mejuri), was organized in partnership with the Consulate General of Canada in New York, and was designed to engage the Canadian companies of the UN Global Compact Network Canada, highlighting the actions it supports in pursuit of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

We met Elizabeth Dove the head of Global Compact Canada along with Geoff Gartshore, the deputy consul general, and representatives from several larger Canadian corporations who are members of the Global Compact (Enbridge, H20 Innovations, L’Oréal Canada and more). 

Global Compact Canada president Elizabeth Dove provides a progress report

 

While CNH Tours is too small to fully engage in the Global Compact, we are investing some resources (staff time and money) to do our best. For example, since 2022, we've been offsetting the carbon emissions generated during our trips, using the Gold Standard - which focuses on offsetting projects that support the UN's Sustainable Development Goals. 

But perhaps our main take-away was an insight on what CNH Tours can do, beyond focusing on our own business, to encourage our business partners / suppliers to leverage their positions to support environmental, social and good governance objectives.   For example, what can the Galapagos National Park do to ensure that ship itineraries are designed in such a way to reduce the overall carbon footprint of the expedition cruise ship fleet?  We can at least raise that question and hope to start a discussion about it.

CNH Tours part-time staffer, Justin Patry (currently completing a “Business and Environment” program at university) has taken an interest in the Global Compact and will be following-up on our behalf.  

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 

 Contact us for more information

"Is itinerary X better than itinerary Y?"

We often get asked this question from guests trying to decide which ship / itinerary to book.  Commenting on the quality of a particular itinerary over the years has led us to dig a little deeper and to identify variables that contribute to a good itinerary.  Surprisingly, it’s not much about which visitor sites the ship takes you to.  There are other more important variables we keep in mind - variables that if you pin down, then the issue of visitor sites takes care of itself. 

But before we get into that, it’s important to understand how ship itineraries are designed in the first place. 

HOW ARE ITINERARIES MANAGED?

In Galapagos, as per National Park rules, all ships must follow a 14-night / 15-day circuit during which time they may not stop at a particular visitor site more than once (there are a few exceptions).  These itineraries may be divided into shorter segments.   Typically, segments consist of 2 x 7-night itineraries, or a combination of shorter ones.  Itineraries may be proposed by a ship, but the Galapagos National Park Service has the final say. 

Every ship’s itinerary is clearly described in a document emitted by the park (the “patente”).  A ship must adhere to the itinerary defined therein.   Using a few small patrol boats, the Park will occasionally carry out monitoring trips at sea to be sure each expedition cruise ship is adhering to its itinerary.  It’s also not unusual for ships to report on each other if one is  not respecting its patente. 

A patente will indicate which visitor sites a ship can go to, in what order, and at what times of the day.  Typically, the patente will give windows for visitation periods (for example, “from 6-8AM” or “from 8-10AM) and indicate which types of activities are permitted there (hiking, snorkeling, zodiac rides, kayaking/paddleboarding).  

This system has helped ensure the quality of the visitor experience.  No visitor site ends up being overloaded with people.   Between applying this system and also capping the capacity of the Galapagos expedition ship fleet (both in ship numbers and ship size), the Galapagos National Park Directorate has received widespread recognition around the world for its excellent expedition-ship visitor management work. 

WHAT FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO A SUPERIOR ITINERARY?

While most ships will touch upon a common set of visitor sites over the course of their 15 circuits (with some variation and exceptions), how they do it will vary from ship to ship.   The elements we consider in making a judgement on an itinerary include:

UNINTERRUPTED: As noted, all ships must follow a 15-day circuit, but no ship actually runs a full 15-day uninterrupted itinerary.  They will all divide the 15 days into shorter segments.  When ship-based tourism first started, uninterrupted itineraries typically consisted of 7 nights / 8 days on board.  Combining two such segments takes the ship through its full 15 day circuit.    But over time, in response to what ships perceived as market demand, more and more ships further segmented their circuits, offering shorter and shorter itineraries.  It’s now possible to embark on a 2-night / 3-day cruise (very few ships offer it – but it’s possible).   More common are ship segments consisting of 4, 5 and 6 days.  In these cases, a 15-day circuit can be divided into two 6-day and one 5-day segments, for example.

Regardless of the itinerary length you choose, we believe that it’s better to ensure it’s uninterrupted.  That means that while you’ll be on board, your ship will not be dropping off / picking up guests who are on the ship for shorter itinerary segments. An interrupted itinerary  has several drawbacks: 

1. The ship must go back to a port to drop off / pick up guests, preventing it from venturing off to distant reaches of the archipelago.
2. During the pick-up and drop-off times, the visitor experience for those not disembarking can be second rate – with the possibility of wasted time as you wait, or are being taken to second rate visitor sites near the port.
3. With a new group of guests on board (and possibly new naturalist guides), you will find the naturalist guides repeating the talks they gave you already. You’ll be going through another safety drill as well. 
4. A change in guests half-way through your trip, and possibly a change in naturalist guides and crew will make it harder for you to develop a sense of shared experience and camaraderie with your fellow travellers (which is often a significant part of the experience).

RECOMMENDATION:  Look for uninterrupted itineraries if possible.  Avoid choosing an itinerary that is a composite of shorter segments.

AVERAGE DISTANCE TRAVELLED / VISITOR SITE:  Some ship itineraries follow a logical progression through the archipelago, while other ships follow circuitous routes.   Following a poorly designed itinerary will have you spending more time underway, and it may put the captain under a certain amount of pressure to weigh anchor and get going to the next visitor site, which may require several hours of navigation.  This might mean that your naturalist guides will also be under pressure to have you back on board, possibly cutting short your time at a visitor site. 

Below, we show examples of two contrasting 8 day itineraries:

FIG. 1:  CIRCUITOUS ITINERARY

The itinerary above (a 100-passenger luxury ship) follows a circuitous route.  It navigates for over 320kms (200 miles), back and forth to the western side of the archipelago, only to stop at two visitor sites there.  It backtracks and then heads off to the easternmost visitor site in the islands.    Guests on this ship will be navigating an average of 88 kms (55 miles) / visitor site. 

FIG 2: LOGICAL ITINERARY

Above, we see an itinerary that maximizes the number of sites visited over the course of an 8 day cruise. In this case (a 14-passenger tourist superior ship), guests on board will navigate  38 kms (24 miles) per visitor site, making for a much less hurried schedule.

A smaller visitor site to kms of navigation ratio contributes to a better overall visitor experience in our minds.

NUMBER OF TOWNS VISITED: While getting to experience “town life” in Galapagos contributes to one’s overall sense of discovery, and while we think it’s absolutely worthwhile doing so (we lived in Galapagos for 4 years after all!), we do believe that you are not flying all the way to Galapagos to spend an excessive amount of time in towns. For this reason, we favour itineraries which limit time spent in urban areas.  In figure 1 above, guests on that itinerary will spending time in two towns (Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), while those following the itinerary in figure 2 will spend time in only one town (Puerto Ayora).  Guests keen on experiencing island life are encouraged to extend their time in Galapagos post-cruise for a few days (it can be a lot more economical to visit towns based in a hotel than on a ship!), allowing them to get the land-legs back and to decompress.  We offer that option for our trips. 

NUMBER OF VISITOR SITES / DAY: At the end of the day, we assume you want to be exposed to the greatest diversity of Galapagos ecosystems and landscapes both above and below the sea while in Galapagos.  The more visitor sites you experience, the greater the depth and breadth of your overall experience.   In this regard, we consider the number of visitor sites / day for an itinerary, and the higher the number, the better the itinerary.  For example, most ships will squeeze in a final visitor site on the last day of a cruise, before having guests disembark.  But some ships don’t.  They feed you breakfast and take you to the airport.  These kinds of factors make a difference to the overall itinerary quality.  

NUMBER OF “NON-VISITOR” SITES: Some visitor sites are underwhelming.  Of course, it can be subjective.  But in our minds, the following sites do not warrant being included on an itinerary:

1. Whale watching: Some ships include this as an activity in the afternoon (with nothing else on the program) – typically as a fill-in for a long navigation. In reality, you can whale watch anytime while navigating in the archipelago.
2. Circumnavigation of an island: Typically either Daphne Major, or Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock), we do not consider sailing around an island as a quality visitor experience.  
3. Visiting a museum: There is one museum in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (a bit long in the tooth now).  While it provides interesting insights on the history of Galapagos,  frankly, you won't learn anything new if you've already gone through a decent Galapagos guide book, and missing out on a hike / snorkel or other activity in exchange for a museum visit is not recommended, in our minds.   Typically, this visitor site is included for those whose itineraries are interrupted, and the ship has to disembark/embark new guests on shorter segments of your longer cruise. 

 

HOW ABOUT THE RELATIVE QUALITY OF VISITOR SITES ON A PARTICULAR ITINERARY?

Not all visitor sites provide the same experience.  Some are commonly understood by visitors (at least those most active on social media) as being among the most spectacular, while others are considered rather dull.  

It’s not that simple. 

There are a variety of attributes that contribute to the quality of a visitor site.  Some of those attributes are constant (example: The otherworldly volcanic landscape), while others are seasonal (example: Nesting waved albatross). Other attributes are haphazard (example: Nesting blue footed boobies – who nest opportunistically – you never know when).  

Some sites have beautiful beaches that are much appreciated after a long and busy day – but otherwise offer little in terms of wildlife.   Is that a good visitor site?  It’s in the eye of the beholder of course.

Most 8-day itineraries that rate well against the criteria above will expose you to a similar subset of visitor sites, wildlife experiences, hiking and snorkeling options and more.  We suggest that you should not be overly concerned about which individual visitor sites you will be experiencing on each itinerary as a way to compare itineraries.  Trying to make sense of all the combinations and permutations of different visitor sites on different itineraries will take you on the road to feeling absolutely overwhelmed.

Only if you are determined to witness a particular species in the wild (for instance, the flightless cormorant or the waved albatross) should you look closely at the component visitor sites on an itinerary.  We can of course help you with that. 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 

 Contact us for more information

With Tui de Roy

With our sister agency, Galapagos Travel, we will be offering what we consider to be the best photography workshops available in Galapagos.  Why?

• They are designed with the support of, and led by Tui de Roy, the pre-eminent Galapagos professional photographer. Tui grew up in Galapagos, was among the first cohort of Park- certified naturalist guides and went on to become a globally recognized award-winning wildlife photographer. Tui can ensure that you will be in the right places at the right times so that opportunities for capturing stunning and unique images are maximized. Only a photographer with a decades-long experience in exploring and photographing the archipelago can provide this kind of guidance.   

• Small group: We can host a maximum of 15 people.

• Two excellent naturalist guides, hand-picked by Tui de Roy, ensuring wonderful synergies among your expedition staff, and allowing for greater versatility during excursions. 

• Ship and itinerary having received the full endorsement of your lead photographer. 

• A comfortable catamaran in the first-class category. 

• Two days pre-cruise in a very comfortable boutique hotel, giving you a chance to recuperate from your international travel, and to get to know this World Heritage city.
  
  
• Suitable for travel partners who are not photographers: We'll have two naturalist guides and a tour leader for a highly versatile experience. 

We are offering one trip in July 2025 and two trips in May and July 2026.  Prices start at US$14,465 (shared).  If you are travelling solo but willing to share, we will help you find roommate for the ship portion of the trip.   

For more information, or if you’re ready to book, please see our website.

Tui de Roy - up for an early start to her day

 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 

 Contact us for more information

We’ve been helping people plan and book their travel plans for 25 years.   While Galapagos is our focus, over the past few years, we’ve added a number of destinations for which we feel we can provide value added.   Madagascar, Provence, Antarctica, Okavango/Kalahari, Easter Island and the Pantanal are now on our palette. 

Most of the time though, tourism infrastructure is designed to accommodate people who travel in pairs.  Most particularly, hotel rooms and ship berths are priced for occupation by two people.   As a result, it is very difficult to offer trips for solo travellers at a price equivalent to, or at least very close to the per person price for people travelling in pairs. 

In our experience, this solo traveller price premium (ranging from 30% to 95% of the price of a shared accommodation rate) has held a lot of people back from travelling.  And that’s a pity.

To address this issue, CNH Tours has developed its SOLO TRAVELLER MATCHING SERVICE.   This is how it works:

• Tell us a bit about yourself (first name, where you live, age range, recent travel experience and what you liked about it, what two or three words would your best friends use to describe you).
• Tell us which trip(s) you are hoping to join.

When two people express interest in the same trip, we share one’s information with the other (without the contact details), asking them if they’d like us to make introductions.  If both say yes, we proceed and let them take it from there.

We’ve already had a couple of successful matches since we started this service. 

If you’d like to sign up – here are the links:

Galapagos solo traveller matching service

Other trips solo traveller matching service

 

We’re always happy to receive feedback.   Bon voyage!

No year end holiday plans yet? 

We've organized a trip that's guaranteed to have you end the year, and start the new one, with wonderful and lasting memories. 

We're running our first Natural History Workshop, from 18-30 December 2024, with an option to extend your stay in an nice boutique hotel for two extra days, allowing you to witness and enjoy the unique and colourful new year's eve celebrations as they are carried out in Ecuador, and in particular, in Galapagos.  

What is a Natural History Workshop?

• Longer, uninterrupted expedition cruise (11 days on board for this departure) - the only such cruise in Galapagos
• Two hand-picked naturalist guides, for a 8:1 ratio of guides to guests
• Full days, starting as early as dawn and into the evening (all activities optional of course)
• Slow paced - spending more time engaged with wildlife and landscapes both above and below the sea
• Curated evening presentations on various natural history topics pertinent to your trip

DATES:  18-30 December 2024, includes 2 days in Quito and 12 days on the ship.

NEW YEAR'S EVE IN GALAPAGOS OPTION:  After the cruise, spend 2 days / 2 nights in a very comfortable boutique hotel in Galapagos and enjoy the celebrations. 

PRICE:

• Standard trip (12 nights / 13 days): US$7,862 / person sharing
• With New Year's Even option (14 nights / 15 days): US$8,315 sharing.   Travelling solo?  Contact us. 

 

More information on our Natural History Workshops

 

"Out with the old, in with the new!".  Año Viejo papier maché figures are elaborately constructed in preparation for the New Year's eve celebration.  At the stroke of midnight, they all go up in flames, condemning to the ashes representaitons of unpleasant memories, events or people of the previous year. 

 

 

We've been very busy organizing all the details of this trip over the past few months.  We've finally dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's. Here are the details:

DATES: 2-16 February 2025

STARTS/ENDS:  In Santiago, Chile

BRIEF ITINERARY:

• 4 nights on the mainland:  Santiago, Casablanca valley wineries, and UNESCO World Heritage city of Valparaiso on the coast
• 5 nights on Easter Island: Guided by Easter Island native, and nationally recognized guide Josie Nahoe.  We are there during the annual Tapati festival - perfect timing!
• 4 nights on Chiloé Island:  Chile's capital of folkore and tradition, World Heritage wooden churches, curanto feasts, coastal forest hikes and penguins.

PRICE:  US$9,600 / person, shared accommodation.  Solo price:  US$12,700 (includes domestic flights).  We have a solo traveller matching service - sign up here if you're interested.

FIND ALL THE DETAILS, AND BOOKING FORM HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the natural world, the concept of distinct species often seems straightforward. A lion is not a house cat – that’s pretty clear.  However, upon closer examination, the boundary between different species can be surprisingly blurred. The Galapagos giant tortoises provide an insight into this ambiguity. 

Inter-species cuddling

Galapagos tortoises are thought to have arrived in the islands a few million years ago, their ancestors having floated over from the mainland. They are renowned for their longevity and distinctive shell shapes, have evolved into numerous distinct populations across the islands. These populations exhibit variations in size, shape, behavior, and even diet, reflecting their adaptation to diverse island environments.  Ever since taxonomists first started describing them, a debate has raged as to whether the different giant tortoise populations were the same species, or comprised several different species. 

Take, for instance, the case of the Española and Santa Cruz tortoises. Despite residing on different islands and exhibiting notable physical differences, genetic analysis has revealed that these tortoises are remarkably similar at the molecular level. This genetic similarity challenges traditional notions of species distinction and raises intriguing questions about evolutionary relationships.

Same species?

The complexity of Galapagos tortoise taxonomy highlights the broader challenge of defining species in the natural world. While traditional classification methods rely on observable traits and geographic isolation, genetic analysis reveals a more nuanced reality. Evolutionary processes such as genetic drift, natural selection, and migration can lead to intricate patterns of divergence and convergence among populations, defying simple categorization.

At the end of the day, and most surprisingly to the taxonomically naïve, we learn that the concept of a species itself is not rigid but rather a human construct aimed at organizing the diversity of life.  At one point, the lion and the housecat had a common ancestor – but when, in their evolutionary divergence, would we have been able to definitively draw a line between the common ancestor species, and the two different species? 

ICZN members vote on new species 

It turns out that the line is drawn by the International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature (ICZN) - the global authority responsible for the scientific naming and classification of animals. It establishes and maintains rules and guidelines for the naming of animal species.  The ICZN provides a framework for resolving taxonomic disputes, clarifying rules for naming new species, and promoting stability and consistency in zoological nomenclature. Its decisions and recommendations are widely respected and followed by taxonomists, researchers, and scientific journals around the world.

Last Thursday night, I was giving a talk about our September 2025 trip to the Provence in the south of France. About 45 people were participating.  During the Q&A session that followed the talk, we got to discussing other destinations, including Antarctica.  For some reason, the discussion reverted back to Galapagos.  Most of the people on the talk were Galapagos alumni.   Jim and Joyce from Alaska, and Jill from California just jumped in to say how wonderful their trip had been.  Johanna, from British Columbia, was reassured, explaining to the others that she was scheduled to head to Galapagos next month.   

Click here to see the 90 second video.

 

 

Jim and Joyce from Alaska "One of the few trips I've done that I would do again"

 

Last January 8^th, a drug lord escaped from a prison in Ecuador.  His escape was soon followed by an armed gang bursting into a television studio during a live broadcast, brandishing arms (they were all arrested).  These events, particularly the live streaming of the armed gang, made international headlines.   While the government of Ecuador quickly and effectively responded, and while the violence associated with those events was brought under control within 2 days, the international community was left with a lasting impression of total insecurity in the entire country.  

As a result of that impression, many people with travel plans to Ecuador decided to cancel. At CNH Tours, almost all our booked guests with upcoming trips to Ecuador carried on with their plans.  Since the events of the 8 of January, over 100 of our guests have completed their trips to Galapagos, the Amazon, the cloud forest, through Guayaquil and beyond - and we’ve not received one report from any of them indicating any sense of insecurity. 

We responded to guests expressing concerns by sharing our experience with this kind of situation.  CNH Tours has been closely involved in Ecuador since 1998, when its owners (Marc and Heather) first moved there to take up a job at the Charles Darwin Research Station.  We started helping people with their Ecuador travel plans in 1999 (a friend’s cruise).  Over these past 25 years, we’ve witnessed many instances of disruption in the country, including:

• Dollarization – when the entire economy switched from the former currency, the Sucre, to the US Dollar leading to high degrees of uncertainty;
• Eruption of the Pichincha volcano, closing the Quito airport;
• Several popular “invasions” or demonstrations in Quito, with rural people streaming into the city, some leading to the overthrow of the government, others resulting in the burning down of the country’s tax agency headquarters;
• A triumvirate – where a president was run out of the country, to be replaced by a short-lived presidency simultaneously held by three co-presidents;
• Fishermen’s strikes in Galapagos, blocking the main road in Santa Cruz, and access to the local docks…

Never, in any of these situations, were any of our guests targeted.   In the worst-case scenario, our guests may have had to spend a night in a hotel closer to the airport instead of in the city – to avoid any transport delays on their way to Galapagos.   Never did any of our guests (or any other visitor to the country, to our knowledge) feel threatened.

It has been our experience that such disruptions in the regular day to day life of Ecuadorians are typically very limited in scope, very short-lived, and never target visitors. 

Based on our 25 year experience in the country, and thanks to our good network of local contacts, it was clear to us that by the 10^th of January, things were a lot less serious than what the images in the media led us to believe.   We felt comfortable reassuring our guests that the risk level to them was very low (nothing is risk free of course) and we encouraged them not to cancel their trips.

Unfortunately, images broadcast on television and the internet fuelled an undue sense of panic. Even today, I’m seeing many questions on social media, wondering if it’s now safe to travel to Ecuador.   I respond that it has been as safe as it has always been.  

Niels Olsen - Minister for Tourism, Ecuador

During our recent 3.5 weeks in Ecuador, we asked hospitality workers and business representatives how the events had affected their business.  Almost all reported cancellations and a drop in sales.  The hotel we use in Quito (Mama Cuchara) was almost empty (26 rooms) – thankfully, our not-for-profit friend’s trip helped bring in business there (17 rooms for 2 nights) and most of our other guests will spend at least a night there.   The owner of the hotel asked if CNH Tours would be willing to speak with the Minister of Tourism (Niels Olsen) – a contact of his – and share our thoughts about the situation in Ecuador.  We spoke with the Minister and he sent a small team of videographers to capture our thoughts.    You can see the video here, on their Instagram account.   

 Mama Cuchara boutique hotel

 

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos:  We are TripAdvisor's Destination Expert

Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

Okavango / Kalahari / Vic Falls: Designed and led by Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic's "Champion of the Okavango"

Provence Discovery:  14 guests - 15 days - 3 luxury villas.  September 2025 

 Contact us for more information

[Bolivar Channel, Western Isabela Island - Galapagos]

(updated 17 March 2024)

In its meeting this past Saturday, the authority in charge of such things voted to increase the Galapagos national park entrance fee from $100 to $200 for foreigners, and from $7 to $30 for Ecuadorians.   

This has been a very long time coming.  The effective cost of entering the park has not changed since the late 1980s (at that time, there were 3 elements to the fee, adding up to $100 - these were combined into a single fee in 1998).   

Back in the 1990's, $100 represented up to 10% of the cost of a budget 8 day cruise in Galapagos.  Today, given that the price of cruise has increased regularly over the intervening period, $100 represents approximately only 2% of such an expense.  Visitors to the islands are leaving significantly more in tips than they leave with the authorities in charge of managing the park.

CNH Tours, through its membership in the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA), has been actively advocating for an increase in the entrance fee.  IGTOA canvassed its members in 2017 and concluded that an entrace fee of $300 would be acceptable. The authorities have decided to raise it to $200 - which we find reasonable.  

We're pleased to see this development. It has been very difficult to have the authority in charge to pass such a change.  Of the 9 votes, 5 voted for the fee increase, 4 against.   Those who voted against were the 4 local municipal representatives.  Many locals fear that an increase in the fee will discourange budget travellers.  These travellers all choose the "land-based" model of tourism in Galapagos, staying in low-end hotels, spending in low-end eateries, and often engaging only in free activities, leaving very little money behind after their visit, yet requiring a disproportionate amount of municipal and other services.  

The "land-based" vs "ship-based" debate has been going on for years.   Recent numbers show that about 260,000 land-based visitors came to Galapagos last year (up from about zero 25 years ago), vs. 70,000 ship-based visitors (no significant difference from 25 years ago).  While the cruise ship fleet capacity has been striclty capped for 25 years, there is no such restriction on the number of visitors than can come to Galapagos on a land-based visitor model. 

Galapagos is unique on the planet and its ecosystems are very vulnerable to the introduction and dispersal of alien invasive species.  These species arrive thanks to the movement of people and goods from the mainland.  Limiting the number of visitors to the islands is a critical 1st step in trying to manage this risk.

While we believe that the increase will not affect visitor numbers, it is at least a sign that the authorities are starting to recognize the problem of overtourism in Galapagos.  UNESCO's intergovernmental World Heritage Committee first raised this concern in 2017.  Until as recently as last year, the minister of tourism was celebrating "record numbers of visitors in Galapagos".   While in Galapagos in February / March, we had the chance to speak with the minister (Niels Olsen) and we were pleased to see that he has made a 180 degree turn in his attitude.  

Thankfully, the ship-based visitor experience has not changed significantly over the years. Access to visitor sites is strictly regulated, and only a set number of visitors are permitted to disembark at any given time.  

What does this mean for CNH Tours guests who have already booked their trip?

If your trip has you arriving in Galapagos on the 1st of August 2024 or beyond, the new fee will apply to you.  There are two scenarios:

1. If the park fee was included in your invoice, either as a separate line item, or as part of the cruise price, we will need to invoice you for the difference.
2. If the park fee was not included in your invoice or as part of the cruise price (you are expected to pay on arrival in Galapagos), we will not be invoicing you for the difference, but you will need to come prepared on arrival in Galapagos with the proper amount in cash.  

We copy-paste the press released published yesterday (Google Translated from Spanish) below:

In an extraordinary meeting, this February 24, 2024, with five votes in favor and four against, the Plenary Session of the Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos approved the update of the income rate for conservation of protected areas in the archipelago. The figure had not been modified in the last 26 years.

 The collegiate body is made up of the highest authorities of the institutions: Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos; Municipal GAD of San Cristóbal, Isabela and Santa Cruz; National Planning Secretariat; Ministries of: Agriculture and Livestock; Environment, Water and Ecological Transition and Tourism. A representative of the parish GAD also participates. 

The decision responds to the objectives of promoting a tourism model in accordance with the conservation actions already undertaken, generating citizen benefits and stabilizing the number of tourists who come to the island province. Thus, the cost to enter the protected areas in Galapagos will be USD 30 (thirty) for nationals and USD 200 (two hundred) for foreigners. The application of the new rate will take place after six months. 

According to the “Conservation Report on Properties Inscribed on the World Heritage List” issued by UNESCO, it is a priority to stabilize the growth in tourism volume to maintain the well-being of both the ecosystem and the inhabitants of Galapagos. The objective is to promote tourism focused on sustainability and the ability to boost the local economy, thanks to the natural wonders that the islands offer, unique in the world. 

On the other hand, it seeks to strengthen the management of decentralized autonomous governments, responsible for the provision and efficient administration of water services, environmental sanitation, waste, tourist facilities, urban fauna management, among others, capable of generating more benefits for Galapagos citizens in terms of conservation and economic development. 

To update the rate, length of stay, age, disability condition, tourism model, nationality or legal residence in the country was demonstrated, in accordance with article 29 of the Organic Law of the Special Regime of the province of Galapagos (LOREG). 

The National Government promotes environmental, tourist and economic management focused on motivating development and balance in the Islands, recognized by UNESCO as a Natural Heritage of Humanity (1978) and a Biosphere Reserve (1984).

 

 

 www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos:  We are TripAdvisor's Destination Expert

Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

Okavango / Kalahari / Vic Falls: Designed and led by Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic's "Champion of the Okavango"

Provence Discovery:  14 guests - 15 days - 3 luxury villas.  September 2025 

 Contact us for more information

All guests returning from their "Active Galapagos" trips to Galapagos with us receive an automatic email inviting them to provide some feedback on their recent experience.  Usually, this is a useful way to do some "quality control" on the trip. But almost invariably, there is very little in the feedback that calls for improvements!  Here, Lee Ann Coughlin from New Hampshire (she was on our Anemone departure - 21 Jan - 1st Feb).  She did indicate that 2 cabins had malfunctioning air conditioning units.  We contacted the owner upon learning this, and within 30 minutes, we received a response indicating that the units had been repaired during the trip.  

Below are Lee Ann's unedited responses to our survey questions: 


Trip Overview document improvements?  If you wish, please let us know how could CNH Tours improve its "Trip Overview Document"

The AXUS portal was brilliant! All of the information you could possibly need was right there, well organized and thorough.

Quito City day tour suggestions We welcome your thoughts on the city tour / comments on your guide.

Juan Paul was a tremendous guide! We went everywhere and saw everything! We especially liked the chocolate tasting and the cable car ride. I can't say enough about Juan Paul, he is so enthusiastic about the city and a very nice guy!

 

Top of the world swing set - hung from the clouds? Accessible via the cable car 

Airport transfers (to and from Galapagos)  For those of you who requested private transfers:  If you had any problems, or if you have any suggestions for improvements on how the transfers to the airports were carried out, please share them with us here.

The transfers were wonderful, as were the guides who met us at the airport. We felt so taken care of, we never had a moment of "where do we go, what do we do". Everything was so well planned for us.

Tony Sotomayor - always at the airport to provide assistance

Comments for / about the naturalist guide Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the guide's performance. (optional)

Jimmy must be one of the best guides in the Galapagos! He was kind, patient, enthusiastic, funny and extremely knowledgeable. When dolphins were spotted we all jumped in dinghy's and swam with the dolphins. An extraordinary experience! He made sure every guest on the boat had a great time.

The indefatigable Jimmy Patiño

Comments about the crew Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the crew's performance (optional)

We found the crew to be gracious, kind and hard working. Our dinghy drivers, Ricardo and Roberto helped me on and off the dinghy, and in and out of the kayaks, always with a smile. Fredo was a great bartender and waiter and the chef was brilliant.

Over-the-top dedication:  Samba crew

Comments on the meals Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the dining experience (optional)

The meals blew us away! Always different, fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, quality meats, fish, chicken. Freshly made snacks and appetizers waiting when you came in from snorkeling. And dessert at lunch and dinner!

Delicious and nutritious

Comments on off-ship excursions  Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the off ship excursions (optional)

The excursions were top notch! Jimmy taught us so much so much about the Galapagos. Every one of our expectations were met.

 

Making like a marine iguana

Comments on the days in Puerto Ayora Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism of the time in Puerto Ayora (optional)

Our time in Puerto Ayora was made special by our guide Nathalie. We learned so much about life in the Galapagos and Nathalie is charming and fun! We especially liked the visit to a small rural coffee farm.

 

Highland Galapagos coffee

Puerto Ayora Hotel comments  If you stayed at the hotel in Galapagos post cruise, please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism (rooms, staff, cleanliness, buffet breakfast... - optional).  What did they do best?  What low hanging fruit is there in terms of improvements to be made?

The Ikala was extremely clean, the rooms are very large, and the staff was some of the nicest we have encountered in our travels. The included breakfast was also wonderful.

Puerto Ayora lodgings - getting your land legs back here is as good as it gets

 

Quotable comments on your trip? Please feel free to leave any "quotable comments / sound bites" we could eventually use on our website.

A trip of a lifetime! Just pack your bags and go, Heather and her team have taken care of all the details. The trip on the Samba with the guide and the wonderful crew will take your breathe away.

A week ago, people around the world started hearing about troubles in Ecuador, sparked by the prison escape of a drug lord. Images of armed goons (they didn’t give the impression they were from an organized and disciplined group) taking over a live TV broadcast were seen.   News that prison guards were being held hostage and that bomb threats were being made was shared widely, along with images of chaos in Guayaquil, a large port city.  

In response, the newly elected president, Daniel Noboa, imposed an 11PM – 5AM curfew throughout the country (expiring on 8 March).  With full support of the national assembly, he also imposed a national state of emergency for the weekend of 13-14 January only, giving extra powers to the military and to police to round up the suspects.

Today, we learn that all prison guard hostages have been released, prisons are back in government control and over 1,000 arrests of drug gang members have been made.  Over the past few days, we have heard from various government sources, and from our own CNH Tours colleagues in Quito, Guayaquil and Galapagos that things have returned to normal. Today, January 15, 2024, the Mayor of Guayaquil announced that normal activities (with a strong army presence) have resumed in Guayaquil.

To be sure, there is increased police / military presence in key places (airports, government buildings).

The country is experiencing calm as stores reopen, employees return to their offices, and visitation returns to the historic centre of Quito (with the exception of the central square in front of the Presidential Palace, which remains closed). 

The Guayaquil and Quito Airports are operating normally.  Members of the army are checking all cars entering the security perimeter of the airport so please allow for an extra 20 – 30 minutes to your normal travel time to allow for your vehicle to be inspected.

International arrival and departure flights are operating normally (with the exception of issues relating to winter storms and Boeing jets grounded for technical concerns).

Galapagos a refuelling station for drug shipments?

Today we saw stories in the press about Galapagos being the fuelling station for drug shipments, as traffickers move their product from South America to North America by sailing far out at sea, south, then west of the Galapagos archipelago and then northwards – staying away from government patrols which tend to monitor waters closer to shore (though the US Coast Guard does carry out monitoring patrols in international waters around the archipelago - see this story).  Needing to refuel, there has been some collusion between local fishermen and the drug dealers. Fishermen buy fuel purportedly for their operations and head out to sea, far from the regular monitoring patrols of the navy / coast guard, meet up with the dealers and make their trade.  

The authorities have been capturing such drug dealing ships for years, but apparently there is more and more such traffic beyond the boundaries of the Galapagos marine reserve.   A record 25 tons of cocaine were seized from such ships in 2023 according to the Ecuadorian navy (up from 1 ton in 2019).  These activities do not intersect with those of expedition cruise ships, which navigate well within the marine reserve waters.  

Vote of confidence

While there is no such thing as zero-risk travel, at CNH Tours, we are confident that travel within Ecuador and the Galapagos islands is as low risk as it was before these recent events. While we recognize that our guests first need to be comfortable in their own decision to travel and that they need to be the final arbiters in the matter, we hope to reassure them that there is no longer any cause for increased concern following last week’s events. 

 

 www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos:  We are TripAdvisor's Destination Expert

Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

Okavango / Kalahari / Vic Falls: Our trip is designed and led by Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic's "Champion of the Okavango"

Provence Discovery:  14 guests - 15 days - 3 luxury villas.  September 2025 

 Contact us for more information