EDINBUGRH, UK  June 1956

Following several reports on the growing concern over...

"..the precarious situation of various species of fauna and flora endemic to the Galápagos Islands..."

and by

"... reports in the press of plans for the large tourist and economic development of the resources of the Galápagos Islands", 

the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), passed a resolution recommending...

"... that qualified naturalists should be encouraged to visit the Galápagos Islands to make a survey and ecological studies of the fauna and flora and express their hope that facilities will be provided by the Ecuadorian Government or through some form of international technical aid so that a small housing unit or laboratory might serve as a base for such scientific work"

NEW YORK, 5 July 1957

On 5 July 1957, accompanied by an illustrator and photographer from Life Magazine,  Irenäus Eibl-Eibesfeldtand (Austrian native, working at the Max Planck Institute for Behavioural Physiology) and Robert Bowman (native Canadian, professor of comparative vertebrate anatomy, ornithology, and island biology at San Francisco State University) depart by airplane from New York City for Guayaquil, Ecuador.

PARIS, 10 October 1960

Professor Robert Bowman delivers his report to UNESCO.  

A BIOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE OF THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS DURING 1957

For anyone out there keen on the history of Galapagos conservation, Professor Bowman's report is fascinating reading.  

CNH Tours is proud to announce that Kelsey Bradley, our senior associate for Galapagos, was elected as a governing member of the Charles Darwin Foundations General Assembly during the Foundation’s annual general meeting earlier this week.

The General Assembly is the highest governing body of the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF), and its governing members play a pivotal role in guiding the organization's strategic direction and ensuring effective governance. Comprising scientists, government officials, members of partner institutions, and representatives from the Galápagos community, the Assembly is responsible for:

• Electing the Board of Directors: The Assembly selects members who oversee the Foundation's operations and strategic initiatives.
• Establishing Policies: It sets organizational policies that align with CDF's mission to conserve the Galápagos Islands through scientific research and conservation efforts.
• Approving Budgets: The Assembly reviews and approves the annual budget, ensuring financial resources are allocated effectively to support various projects and programs.
• Conducting Annual Meetings: These meetings serve as a platform to review the year's achievements, discuss challenges, and plan for future activities.

By fulfilling these roles, the General Assembly ensures that the Charles Darwin Foundation remains aligned with its mission and continues to make impactful contributions to the conservation of the Galápagos Islands.

Kelsey began her relationship with the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF) through a chance encounter in a café on San Cristóbal Island, where a conversation with economist Juan Carlos Guzmán led to an invitation to volunteer at the Station. She started in the Technical Assistance department, initially contributing to Project Floreana before it was paused, and was later integrated into various areas of the Foundation's work—from field activities in the highlands to strategic project analysis. Eventually, she returned to the CDF as a staff member during a difficult financial period, taking on responsibilities in the fundraising department. When the Grants Manager retired in 2016, she ensured continuity by leading the department until new staff could be hired.

Kelsey left the Foundation in 2018 and returned to her home town of Ottawa, where she joined us at CNH Tours.  

Kelsey joins Marc Patry, CNH Tours co-founder of CNH Tours, who is also a governing member of the Charles Darwin Foundation.  

CNH Tours remains convinced that the more you prepare for your trip, the more you will get out of it.  While being prepared includes packing appropriately, checking on any vaccination requirements and of course, ensuring your passport is valid, we are also convinced you should do your best to prepare your mind.   Catching up on a few key books that address some of the issues / stories most pertinent to your destination is an excellent way to do that.   

We've assembled a short list of guide, fiction and non-fiction books for your consideration.  Reading any one or two of them will surely provide that much more depth to your experience.   Do not hesitate to recommend any books you think should be on our list.

MADAGASCAR READING LIST

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We get this question a lot.  From Anchorage to Quito, or Reykjavik to Antananarivo.  What's the best flight route?  

What's the best way, from A to B?

There is no single “best” flight route that suits everyone, because so many factors come into play when booking travel. In other words, it really does depend on what matters most to you personally. Here’s a deeper look at the key factors that can influence your decision:

• Number of Connections: Some travelers prefer to have as few connections as possible. A direct flight might be the most convenient, but it’s not always available from your home airport, or it might be more expensive. For others, a longer layover may be worth it if it significantly reduces costs.

• Price: Budget is a big factor. Travelers often balance convenience with price. For example, a direct flight may be more expensive, while a flight with one or two layovers can be much cheaper.

• Departure and Arrival Times: The time you leave and arrive can make a big difference. You may want to arrive early in the day so you can make the most of your time at the destination, or you might prefer an overnight flight to save on hotel costs.

• Stopovers and Interesting Layovers: Some travelers enjoy routes that allow for a longer stop in another city, turning it into a mini trip within a trip. This can be a great way to explore a new place without buying a separate ticket.

• Airline Loyalty Programs: Frequent flyers might prioritize routes with airlines that offer them the most value in terms of points or status upgrades. If you’re a member of a loyalty program, booking with a partner airline can also bring you added perks.

• Reliability and Flexibility: Some airlines have better reputations for punctuality, fewer cancellations, or more flexible policies on changes and cancellations. This can matter a lot, especially if your plans might shift.

At CNH Tours, we typically start by using a comprehensive booking site like Expedia. These platforms show a broad range of airlines and flight options, helping us see the possibilities side-by-side. Once we identify a promising option, we double-check directly with the airline’s website for accuracy and to make sure we’re seeing the most up-to-date schedules and fares. We usually book directly with the airline—this is key—because in our experience, it’s easier to resolve issues or make changes if something goes wrong when you’re dealing directly with the airline, rather than through an intermediary booking site.

Ultimately, the best route for you will come down to balancing these factors—price, comfort, convenience, airline loyalty, and peace of mind—according to your own travel priorities.

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Our friend, Ecuadorian champion of nature conservation and member of the Charles Darwin Foundation board of directors, Alfredo Carrasco, made a recent re-discovery of a very ancient one.  

Perusing some of oldest “world maps” ever made, he came across what is almost incontrovertibly the earliest depiction of the the Galapagos Islands ever portrayed on a map.   Alfredo confidently reports that the 1551 Nautical Planisphere map (by Spanish cartographer Sancho Gutiérrez) likely shows the first graphic representation of the Galápagos Islands, depicted just under the equatorial line. Though unnamed on the map, it predates other maps and reflects early Spanish efforts to chart the Pacific’s remote territories.

See his full analysis here

Dr. Karen Ross is our Okavango-Kalahari-Cape Town-Victoria Falls tour leader.   Why Karen?  It's a good story.

We first met Karen in 2015.  CNH Tours owners Heather and Marc were living in Nairobi. Marc was working at the UN and Heather was running CNH Tours.  Marc met Karen at a meeting dealing with nature conservation issues and struck up a friendship.   We learned that Karen had spent almost her entire life in Africa, starting in Kenya, and moving on to Botswana, and then briefly, back to Kenya (when we met her).    

She did a Ph.D. in wildlife ecology and in Kenya, she worked under some of the most famous wildlife conservation people in the business.  She moved to Botswana 30+ years ago and led many wildlife Okavango Delta conservation projects there.  She became the "go to" person in that regard.  So much so that the government of Botswana asked her to help put together the World Heritage nomination file for the Okavango Delta - a very big job (the Okavango Delta was officially added to the World Heritage list in 2014).

Until that point, CNH Tours was only dealing with Galapagos.  Heather and I were Galapagos experts - having lived and worked there for 4 years, and I followed that up with a UN job that included, in part, the monitoring of the state of conservation of Galapagos.   We just didn't feel we had the authenticity, the first-hand knowledge, to propose other destinations - even though our returning Galapagos guests asked us for such options. 

It was when we met Karen that we thought: "Maybe we could design and offer trips to the Okavango Delta".   We approached Karen and explored the idea.  She was enthusiastic about it.  We asked her to design the "ideal Okavango-Kalahari" trip, taking into account the best time of year, a great itinerary, very comfortable "bush camps" and more.  She worked closely with a Botswana friend of hers, Glen Stephen at Liquid Giraffe, who ran a travel company there and together, they created the CNH Tours Okavango trip. 

Karen in a mokoro, in the Delta

It has been very popular since the first time we offered it (2020 --- postponed to 2022).   We now run one or two trips a year in April/May.  The trips are 14 days long and take you to Cape Town, the Kalahari, the heart of the Okavango Delta, the Okavango Panhandle and Tsodilo Hills, and to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.   The trips regularly sell out within weeks of being posted - and for good reason.  

Karen has just returned from leading our May 2025 trip - which ended 4 days ago.  She received several "thank you" notes from the participants.  We post a few below for the record.  

LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR OKAVANGO-KALAHARI TRIP

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Back in 2020, we were asked to review a Galapagos guidebook, by Josef Litt.  Based in the Czech Republic, Josef is a keen diver and very passionate about the islands. 

We were quite amazed by the book.  Having had a close look at many Galapagos books over the years, this one really stood out.  It is comprehensive, dealing not only with the usual guide-book topics, but it is also broad in scope, addressing other issues not normally addressed in guidebooks.  It gives the reader a full 360-degree exposure to what Galapagos is all about.

While it comes across as  bit hefty if you’re planning on stuffing it into a side pocket of your day pack, we highly recommend it for anyone wanting to obtain a broad understanding of what really makes these islands tick.

See our comprehensive review of the book.

Ever since we reviewed the book, we’ve come to know the author a bit better.  While he’s fully employed in a sector not related to Galapagos, he runs occasional dive trips there.  He recently informed us that his book is out of print and that he only has 30 or so copies remaining for sale. He added:  "The good news is that I can offer them signed if any would like that".  

Order your Galapagos guidebook here. 

If you're spending more than 10 days in Colombia, Peru, Bolivia or Brazil before going to Ecuador, or if you are a resident there / have any of those nationalities, read this message: 

OFFICIAL STATEMENT - YELLOW FEVER VACCINE

Ministry of Public Health - April 30, 2025 

𝗘𝗰𝘂𝗮𝗱𝗼𝗿 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗿𝗲𝗾𝘂𝗶𝗿𝗲 𝗮 𝘆𝗲𝗹𝗹𝗼𝘄 𝗳𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝘃𝗮𝗰𝗰𝗶𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗰𝗲𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗰𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝘃𝗲𝗹𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗣𝗲𝗿𝘂, 𝗖𝗼𝗹𝗼𝗺𝗯𝗶𝗮, 𝗕𝗼𝗹𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗮, 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗕𝗿𝗮𝘇𝗶𝗹 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗠𝗮𝘆 𝟭𝟮, 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟱 

To strengthen prevention and control of the circulation of the Yellow Fever virus (YF), and in compliance with the International Health Regulations (IHR 2005), Ecuador will implement the requirement to present the International Certificate of Vaccination against this disease upon arrival in the country, starting May 12, 2025.

The requirement applies to: 

- Travelers of nationality or residency in Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Brazil 

- Travelers of any nationality or residency who have stayed more than 10 days in transit or visit in those countries before entering Ecuador 

The Certificate must indicate that the vaccine was received at least 10 days before the trip. The yellow fever vaccine provides lifelong immunity. 

If you are Ecuadorian or a resident without prior vaccination history and are traveling to high-risk areas in the Ecuadorian Amazon (Sucumbíos, Orellana, Napo, Pastaza, Morona Santiago, and Zamora Chinchipe), you must be vaccinated 10 days before traveling. 

The Ecuadorian Government recommends that travelers take the necessary precautions, comply with this provision, and plan their trips in advance, ensuring that they have a valid international vaccination certificate.

MORE INFO ON YELLOW FEVER FROM CNH TOURS

Yellow fever - what is it?   It's a viral disease transmitted by infected mosquitoes, primarily Aedes aegypti. It occurs mainly in parts of Africa and South America. Symptoms range from mild—such as fever, chills, and muscle pain—to severe, including jaundice (yellowing of the skin), bleeding, organ failure, and potentially death.

The illness is serious: about 15% of infected individuals develop severe disease, and among those, the fatality rate can be as high as 30–60%. A highly effective vaccine exists and is the best prevention method for travelers and residents in at-risk regions.

Is it prevalent in Ecuador?

Yellow fever is endemic in Ecuador, particularly in lowland tropical regions such as the Amazon Basin. However, the country had not reported any cases between 2019 and 2023. In 2024, there was a single case, and as of April 2025, three confirmed cases have been reported, including one fatality in Zamora Chinchipe province near the Peruvian border . This resurgence is attributed to a decline in vaccination coverage following the COVID-19 pandemic, leaving populations more susceptible to preventable diseases .

In response, Ecuador's Ministry of Public Health has declared an epidemiological alert and implemented measures such as mandatory yellow fever vaccination for travelers entering from neighboring countries like Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Brazil, effective May 12, 2025 . Additionally, mass vaccination campaigns are underway, and mask mandates have been introduced in schools within affected provinces.)

For travelers, the CDC recommends yellow fever vaccination for those aged 9 months and older who are visiting areas below 2,300 meters (7,550 feet) in elevation, especially in provinces like Morona-Santiago, Napo, Orellana, Pastaza, Sucumbíos, and Zamora-Chinchipe . Vaccination is not required for travel to higher-altitude cities such as Quito, or for the Galápagos Islands.

If you're planning a trip to Ecuador, especially to the Amazonian regions, it's crucial to consult with a healthcare provider about yellow fever vaccination and other preventive measures.

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CNH Tours is a member of the International Galapagos Tour Operators' Association.  IGTOA promotes sustainable tourism and excellence in guiding.  Member companies like ours contribute $20 for each guest booking with us to IGTOA's Conservation Grants fund.   Each year, IGTOA invites organizations in Galapagos to apply for funding.  CNH Tours participates in the review of grant applications and in the decision-making.  This year, our colleague, Kelsey Bradley, was involved in that process.

Below is a summary of the IGTOA news item it published on its website this week.  

IGTOA Announces Nearly $110,000 in Galápagos Conservation Grants for 2025

In 2025, IGTOA will award $109,200 in grants through its Galápagos Traveler Conservation Fund (GTCF) to organizations advancing conservation, education, and community initiatives in the Galápagos. Funded by IGTOA members and their clients, the GTCF supports efforts to preserve the islands for future generations.

ECOS – Youth Environmental Education, $35,000
ECOS provides immersive environmental education for Galápagos youth. This year’s grant will fund an educational program for all 31 students and 7 teachers on Floreana Island, supporting the island's major restoration effort. It will include new resources, teacher training, and field trips. In Santa Cruz, the funding will also support leadership and citizen science programs focusing on climate monitoring and endangered species, promoting youth engagement and awareness.

AGIPA – Santa Cruz Community Library, $30,000
The only public library in the Galápagos, run by AGIPA, offers critical educational resources and internet access. IGTOA’s grant will support continued operations, programming, and maintenance, benefiting thousands of residents through literacy, conservation, and vocational workshops.

Naveducando – “Oceanic Classroom” for Youth, $20,000
Many Galápagos children have limited access to the surrounding marine reserve. Naveducando’s sailing program offers students hands-on experiences with coastal ecosystems. This year’s funding will allow 150 seventh-grade students from San Cristóbal Canton to participate in this transformative program.

Charles Darwin Foundation – Green Sea Turtle Research, $15,000
The Galápagos hosts key nesting sites for endangered East Pacific green turtles. IGTOA’s support helps the CDF continue its long-term monitoring, especially during climate events like La Niña. The data collected will guide conservation strategies to protect turtle populations affected by rising temperatures and changing weather patterns.

FIRMAG – Radio and Community Programs, $9,200
FIRMAG's #GalapagosMiResponsabilidad radio program raises awareness of environmental and social issues. The grant will fund operating costs and youth workshops in radio production and journalism, promoting community engagement and environmental stewardship.

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Dr. Keith Alverson (CNH Tour's own ad-hoc advisor on all things related to climate change, snow, glaciers and icebergs) will be at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris this week to moderate discussions during the course of an international"Brainstorming Session" to define priorities for a decade of action in cryospheric sciences.  

Keith poses for a selfie with a bit of the cryosphere in the background (Villarrica Volcano, Chile)

What is the cryosphere? The cryosphere is an umbrella term for those portions of Earth's surface where water is in solid form. This includes sea ice, ice on lakes or rivers, snow, glaciers, ice caps, ice sheets and frozen ground (which includes permafrost). 

In August 2024, the United Nations General Assembly adopted the resolution to declare the period from 2025 to 2034 as the "Decade of Action for Cryospheric Sciences". Championed by the Republic of France and the Republic of Tajikistan, and supported by a coalition of nations, this initiative underscores the urgent need for international scientific collaboration to mitigate the far-reaching effects of cryospheric changes on ecosystems, water security, and global climate stability.

A dedicated brainstorming session during the March 2025 celebrations in Paris will convene policymakers, scientists, and civil society to outline the priorities for the Decade of Action. This session aims to identify innovative research approaches, foster cross-border partnerships, and strengthen the integration of cryospheric science into global climate adaptation strategies. With UNESCO serving as the coordinating agency, the session will highlight the critical role of glaciers and the cryosphere in regulating freshwater resources.

This decade-long initiative builds on the momentum created by the International Year of Glaciers' Preservation and will serve as a launchpad for the Decade of Action for Cryospheric Sciences. It will lay the groundwork by fostering global cooperation on research, monitoring, and data-sharing to better predict the consequences of cryospheric changes on water resources, sea levels, and ecosystems. 

WHAT'S IN IT FOR CNH TOURS?
CNH Tours takes a keen interest in these international processes given that many of our guests are drawn by the wonders of polar ecosystems and land/icescapes.  Climate change is being felt particuarly strongly in the Arctic - leading to very measurable effects on the cryosphere there, and therefore, on ecosystems and on communities living there.    

We've asked Keith to keep in mind how this roadmap may relate to tourism and we hope he'll be able to report back to us later next week.  

13-28 October 2026

3 rural hotels / 16 days / 14 guests

Following up on our very popular "Provence Discovery" trip (taking place this Sept/Oct 2025), we've transposed our slow, versatile approach to travel to neighbouring Tuscany.

You'll join a small group (14 guests) adventure and experience three contrasting areas of this fabled Italian region. With 5 nights in three comfortable rural hotels, for a total of 15 nights/16 days, our retreat takes you to explore a different Tuscany, away from the crowds to reconnect with the countryside and the most authentic traditions of the region. 

Each day, we arrange problem-free explorations in the region surrounding each villa, whether it's about interacting with local hosts, enjoying gentle hikes, exploring local markets, partaking in culinary experiences and wine tasting, or visiting charming villages and historic sites.

Our slow-paced itinerary allows enough free time to sense the spirit of each corner of Tuscany, exploring at your own pace and taking home long-lasting memories of the region's natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.

More information and booking.

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In this week's edition of The Economist, there's a good piece highlighting the work of a woman in Ecuador who risks her life daily in the pursuit of jusice - that's Diana Salazar, the country's attorney general.  

Diana Salazar (in The Economist)

Once oddly (and thankfully) left out of the drug trade induced violence more commonly associated with countries such as Colombia, Honduras and Mexico, Ecuador has in recent years been catching up if not surpassing its neighbours when it comes to drug cartel violence. 

While Galapagos is pretty much isolated from this violence, the waters around the archipelago are often used by ships to transport drugs - and given the extra degree of vigilance around the marine reserve (and also in part from the American coast guard), shipments of drugs are occasionally intercepted there. 

The fact is, a great number of people consume illegal drugs and it has been next to impossible stopping them.  Some are hooked and desperate, others do it for recreational purposes.  But every person who buys illegal drugs has blood on their hands - as they support a multi-billion dollar industry bent on undermining justice with the use of violence, extortion and bribery in countries like Ecuador. 

Diana Salazar is engaged in a very dangerous pursuit.  We wish her full succeess in her efforts. 

Read the article here.  

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If you're embarking on one of our 11-day "Natural History Tours" - there's a good chance your guide will be Daniel Angermeyer Fitter.  

Not only is Daniel an accomplished Galapagos Naturalist Guide, he's also an accomplished individual.  He has co-authored books on Galapagos, has been an on-again / off-again professional photographer, and he's also a community leader.   

But Daniel also has an amazing family history. 

Sensing the gathering storm clouds and unwilling to go along with the growing authoritarian nature of his homeland, Daniel's grandfather, Johannes Angermeyer, was one of 5 sons (Heinrich, Gus, Carl, Johannes and Fritz) who left Germany in 1935.  They acquired a sailboat with Galapagos as their destination.  At the time, Galapagos had received a lot of attention in the German press, portrayed as "the last paradise".  It's easy to understand how adventurous but disillusioned young men would choose it as a destination for a new life.

It was a long journey there, and following a near shipwreck off the SW coast of England, the boys arrived more than a year later.  Conditions were much harsher than imagined of course.  Very little fresh water, no electricity, rocky volcanic soils had discouraged many who came before them.  But not the Angermeyers.  Their doggedness and unbridled enthusiasm served them well.  Today, many of their descendants, including your guide Daniel, still live in the islands.  

Their story is told in a lovely book (My Father's Island) written by Johanna Angermeyer, the daughter of one of the brothers, and our naturalist guide's aunt.  She tells the dramatic life story of her mother Emma - emigrating to Nebraska from Russia as a young girl.  Emma meets a dashing Ecuadorian pilot training there, forever changing her destiny.  Johanna ends up spending summers in Galapagos in the late 1960's, recounting her adventures - be they out on goat hunting expeditions with her uncles, encountering eccentric folks in the highlands, being invited aboard yachts of wealthy visitors...  He older sister Mary (Daniel's mother) figures prominently.

It's part diary, part drama, part history and a very pleasant read - giving you a glimpse of what life was like in Galapagos in the 1950's and 1960's - when the only way to reach the islands was by ship.  

Angermeyer family tree, from Johanna Angermeyer's book "My Father's Island". 

First published in 1989

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One of the more charismatic endemic species in Galapgos is the Galapgos Penguin, and one of the most memorable experiences in Galapagos is to be snorkeling among of group of busy penguins.  Among the smallest of the world's 18 penguin species, the Galpagos Penguin is also the only one whose range extends into the northern hemisphere (just).  

Their numbers have always, and will always be small, simply because their range is small - they exist only among the Galpagos islands. For this reason, their continued survival as a species is inherently subject to disturbances.  A bout of bird flu combined with a harsh El Niño could reduce their numbers dramatically, for example. 

The Charles Darwin Research Station in cooperation with the Galapagos National Park Service carry out penguin population censuses as regularly as they can (which means: When they can find the funding).  In an effort to improve the penguins' efforts at keeping stable population numbers, the Station and Park build artificial nesting sites for them along their usual breeding ranges (mostly the western shores of the archipelago).  

We've assembled some information below on Galapagos Penguin population dynamics.  You'll be well-prepared to ask pointed questions to your naturalist guide after going over that information!

The population dynamics of Galápagos penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus) are highly influenced by environmental variability, food availability, and predation. Here are some key factors that shape their population trends:

Population Size & Distribution

• Galápagos penguins are one of the rarest penguin species, with an estimated population of around 1,500 to 2,000 individuals.
• They are mostly found on Isabela and Fernandina Islands, with smaller populations on Santiago, Floreana, and Bartolomé.
• They are the only penguin species that lives north of the equator.

Factors Influencing Population Dynamics

1. Climate Variability: El Niño & La Niña

   • El Niño events cause warm ocean temperatures, reducing upwelling and decreasing fish availability. This leads to high mortality and reduced breeding.
   • La Niña events bring cooler waters, increasing food supply and improving breeding success.
   • Severe El Niño events (e.g., 1982–83 and 1997–98) have caused population crashes of 50% or more.

2. Food Availability

   • Galápagos penguins primarily feed on small fish like anchovies, sardines, and mullet.
   • Productivity of the Cromwell Current, which brings nutrient-rich waters, is crucial for their survival.
   • If food is scarce, they delay or skip breeding.

3. Reproductive Strategies

   • They breed opportunistically depending on food abundance, not seasonally.
   • Clutch size: Typically two eggs, but survival rates depend on food conditions.
   • Long-term pairs help improve reproductive success.

4. Predation & Human Impact

   • Natural predators: Galápagos hawks, owls (on land); sharks and sea lions (in water).
   • Invasive species: Feral cats, rats, and dogs prey on eggs and chicks.
   • Human threats: Potential oil spills, fishing nets, and habitat disturbance.

5. Conservation Efforts

   • The species is classified as Endangered (EN) by the IUCN.
   • Conservation efforts focus on marine protected areas, nesting site restoration, and invasive species control.
   • Artificial nest sites have been built to increase reproductive success.

Long-Term Trends

• The population has fluctuated significantly over decades due to climate shifts.
• After the 1997–98 El Niño, numbers dropped below 1,000 but recovered with La Niña conditions.
• In recent years, conservation efforts and favorable ocean conditions have led to gradual recovery, but the species remains vulnerable to climate change.

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That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been saved from being released into the atmosphere due to our trips from July to December 2024 - thanks to CNH Tours' participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.  

The Gold Standard is rated as among the top best carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  For Galapagos, this amounts to the CO2 emitted by the domestic flight to the islands and to those emitted by the expedition cruise ship.

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide

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It's never a bad idea to try to understand the headspace of the people you'll be seeing when you go on a trip. Besides being a learning experience, it gives you more context for what you might be observing around you and the potential for greater empathy with those who'll be working to make yours a wonderful trip. On 9 February, Ecuadorians go to the polls to elect a presidend and the members of their national legislative assembly.  

Ecuadorians have had a tumultuous time with their presidents for as long as CNH Tours has been paying attention (since the mid 1990's). It's very rare that a president finishes his full term, either being chased out of the country, resign under threat of impeachment or simply physically run out of office.  At one point in the early 2000's, Ecuador was run by a triumviate - three presidents at the same time..  

What follows is from the Financial Post dated 2 January. 

Ecuadorian President Daniel Noboa arrives at Carondelet Palace in Quito, Ecuador, on Oct. 17, 2023. (Editor's Note: CNH Tours founder Marc Patry once met with a previous president of Ecuador (Lucio Gutierrez) in Carondelet Palace on UNESCO business - during the course of the meeting, crowds could be heard chanting outside "Out with Lucio!" - three days later, Gutierrez had fled the country). 

President Daniel Noboa hopes to secure his first full term in Ecuador’s general election on Feb. 9. All 151 seats in the country’s National Assembly are also up for grabs.

The U.S.-educated son of Ecuador’s wealthiest man, Noboa came to office via a two-round snap election held in August and October 2023. The vote followed the resignation of former President Guillermo Lasso, who dissolved the legislature to avoid being impeached. Noboa was elected to finish Lasso’s term, which began in 2021.

Like Lasso, Noboa is conservative, and he has focused his presidency on combating violent crime. Ecuador has experienced rising insecurity and homicide rates as it has become a hot spot for cocaine trafficking in recent years. While on the campaign trail in 2023, one of Noboa’s opponents was assassinated; Ecuador’s attorney general later linked the killing to criminal gangs.

After a spate of attacks last January, Noboa declared Ecuador to be in an “internal armed conflict,” instituting a state of emergency and deploying troops to stabilize the country. Months later, voters approved a Noboa-backed referendum to tighten security measures. Despite the broad public support, legal experts and human rights activists worry that the measure could endanger due process and the rule of law.

Ecuador is also wrestling with post-pandemic economic devastation. With so much money devoted to fighting gangs, the government has even fewer resources to address its deficit. Noboa has courted the United States, the International Monetary Fund, and others for help. Last year, he secured more than $93 million in assistance from Washington, to be delivered over five years.

What’s more, Noboa announced that he would propose a constitutional amendment to reauthorize the presence of foreign military bases on Ecuadorian soil. Former Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa disallowed such bases in 2008, forcing the United States to shutter an outpost on Ecuador’s Pacific coast.

Correa, accused of corruption by the U.S. government, is currently living in exile in Belgium, but he still wields influence over Ecuador’s politics. Luisa González, who served in Correa’s government from 2007 to 2017 and lost to Noboa in 2023, plans to run for president again this year.

Also on the ballot is Leonidas Iza, who heads Ecuador’s powerful Indigenous confederation. Controversial businessman Jan Topić is in the mix, too.

Noboa’s approval rating has fallen in recent months, but polls still show him on top ahead of next month’s election. He is trailed by González, Topić, and Iza. If no candidate wins at least 40 percent of the vote with at least a 10-point lead in the first round, the top two candidates will proceed to a runoff on April 13. Legislators are elected via a mixed-method proportional system.

So often when recalling the exploits of great scientists, explorers and politicians, those who enabled them are relegated to the broom closet of history.   Darwin is no exception.  We rarely hear about his right-hand man on the Beagle, and for a few years after Darwin’s return to England.   In his book, “The Voyage of the Beagle”, Darwin never mentions Syms Covington, yet he was by his side for over 5 years.   Only later in life Did Darwin express gratitude toward Covington in his correspondence and acknowledged the importance of his contributions in his later writings.

Here’s a short story of Covington’s life. 

Early Life and Career
Syms Covington was born in Bedfordshire, England, in 1816. Little is known about his early years, but he joined the British Royal Navy at a young age, seeking adventure and opportunity. By his teens, Covington had become a sailor aboard the HMS Beagle, where he initially served as a cabin boy and ship's fiddler. His musical abilities were valued on the ship, as fiddling provided entertainment during long voyages.

The Voyage of the HMS Beagle
In 1831, the HMS Beagle embarked on its second voyage, captained by Robert FitzRoy. Aboard this expedition was the young naturalist Charles Darwin, who had been invited to join the journey to study geology, natural history, and the environment of the regions they explored. Covington, though initially part of the general crew, soon became Darwin’s personal servant and assistant.

As Darwin’s assistant, Covington played a crucial role in the success of the expedition. His duties included helping Darwin collect, prepare, and preserve specimens of plants, animals, and fossils. He often used his skills as a marksman to hunt birds and mammals, which Darwin studied in detail. Covington’s keen eye and steady hand made him an indispensable part of the scientific team. He was also responsible for organizing and labeling specimens, ensuring they were properly stored for later analysis.

Contributions to Darwin’s Work
During the Beagle voyage, which lasted from 1831 to 1836, Darwin relied heavily on Covington’s practical skills. Covington’s assistance in collecting specimens was vital, especially in challenging environments such as the Galápagos Islands and South America. His meticulous work enabled Darwin to focus on his observations and theories, laying the groundwork for his later development of the theory of evolution by natural selection.

One notable instance of Covington’s contribution was his role in preparing finches collected from the Galápagos Islands. These specimens would later become central to Darwin’s insights into adaptive radiation and the diversity of species.

Life After the Beagle
Following the Beagle voyage, Covington continued to work for Darwin in England, assisting him in cataloging and organizing the extensive collection of specimens gathered during their travels. However, after some time, Covington sought a new life and emigrated to Australia in 1839. There, he settled in Pambula, New South Wales, and became a postmaster. He married and raised a family, leading a quieter life far removed from his adventurous seafaring years.

Despite the distance, Covington maintained occasional correspondence with Darwin. These letters reveal Darwin’s appreciation for Covington’s contributions to his work, as well as a mutual respect between the two men.

Legacy
Syms Covington’s life is a testament to the unsung heroes of scientific discovery. Though not a scientist himself, his labor and dedication provided essential support for Darwin’s groundbreaking research. Covington’s name appears in Darwin’s correspondence and acknowledgments, underscoring his role in one of the most important scientific voyages of the 19th century.

Covington passed away in 1861, having lived a life that bridged two worlds: the high seas of exploration and the quietude of a small Australian town. His story serves as a reminder of the collaborative efforts behind scientific progress, where even the smallest contributions can leave a lasting impact on history.

FURTHER READING

Covington’s life was recounted in this lovely, fictionalized story “Mr. Darwin’s Shooter” by Roger McDonald (1998). In this richly detailed novel, Roger McDonald shines a light on a man forgotten by history, capturing the breathtaking excitement of the historic voyage of the Beagle and brilliantly illuminating the scientific, religious, and social controversies that exploded around Darwin's watershed theories.

You'll get a whole lot more out of you short stay in Galapagos if you prepare your mind in advance... here's an eclectic collection of books (and movies) we've curated for you. From lateral gene transfers to ménage-à-trois on Floreana Island... You should find something to pique your interests...

The list is divided into a few sections:

• GUIDEBOOKS / NATURAL HISTORY
• CONSERVATION / EVOLUTIONARY BIOLOGY / TAXONOMY
• HUMAN HISTORY / HISTORICAL FICTION
• FILMS

Have a look and if there's a book / film that you think belongs on the list, please let us know.  

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