A common question we get from guests considering or preparing a trip to Galapagos is "what's the national currency?". 

The short answer is "the US dollar".  Below you'll find the long answer.  

 

In January 2000, Ecuador made the dramatic decision to adopt the U.S. dollar as its official currency, a move triggered by a deep economic crisis that had plunged the nation into economic turmoil.

Throughout the late 1990s, Ecuador was hit by a perfect storm of financial mismanagement, natural disasters and external shocks. The price of oil, a crucial export, plummeted, while the devastating effects of El Niño battered the agricultural sector.  Bank fraud played an important role - the collapse of Ecuador’s banking system was marked by corruption, poor regulation, and mismanagement. The resulting economic downturn spiraled into hyperinflation, with annual inflation soaring above 60%, eroding the value of Ecuador’s currency, the sucre, and pushing millions of Ecuadorians deeper into poverty.

USD-Sucre exchange rate. We arived in Ecuador in July 1998, just in time for "the fun".  

The crisis came to a head in early 1999 (CNH Tours co-founders were living in Galapagos). As banks began to collapse, depositors saw their savings evaporate due to rapid inflation, and in a desperate move, the government froze bank accounts that March to prevent a complete financial meltdown.  On a Friday that month, the exchange rate was at about 18,000 sucres to the dollar.  In a surprise move, accounts across the country were frozen for a week, during which time everyone’s savings were replaced by dollars, but at a rate of 25,000 sucres to the dollar – translating into a huge loss for all depositors.

5,000 sucres: Worth about US$0.27 the week before dollarization, and US$0.20 the week after dollarization.

The logic behind dollarization was simple: by adopting the U.S. dollar, Ecuador hoped to stabilize its economy, restore confidence, and tame the runaway inflation that had wreaked havoc on daily life. The sucre had become virtually worthless, and with few alternatives left, dollarization seemed like the only viable option.

By July 2000, the U.S. dollar officially replaced the sucre. The immediate effect was a sharp drop in inflation, and economic stability slowly returned. However, the decision came with a price: Ecuador forfeited control over its monetary policy, leaving it vulnerable to U.S. Federal Reserve decisions.

For many, the shift to the U.S. dollar was a bitter pill to swallow, but for a country on the brink of economic collapse, it provided a lifeline, restoring a degree of stability to a deeply fractured economy.

 

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Almost 25 years ago - on October 7, 1999, under an uncharacteristically cloudless sky, the Pichincha volcano, towering over Ecuador’s capital city, Quito, erupted in a dramatic and terrifying display of nature’s power. The event marked the first major eruption of the volcano since 1660, spewing ash and volcanic debris across the region. In the early hours of that Thursday morning, a thick column of ash was propelled several kilometers into the sky, turning day into twilight over Quito and its surrounding areas.

As the ash cloud spread, residents were forced to wear masks and goggles to protect themselves from the fine, abrasive particles. Flights were grounded, and schools and businesses shut down as the city grappled with the fallout. The ashfall covered streets, buildings, and cars in a layer of grey dust, disrupting daily life. Though no fatalities were reported, the eruption caused widespread respiratory problems, with hospitals treating people for eye and throat irritation. Public officials urged people to stay indoors, and emergency teams worked around the clock to clear roads and assist the most affected areas.

The eruption was part of a broader pattern of volcanic activity in the region, and while authorities had been monitoring Pichincha closely, the intensity of the event took many by surprise. For days, Quito's residents lived under the looming threat of further eruptions, anxiously watching the sky as they sought to return to a sense of normalcy. The eruption of Pichincha on October 7, 1999, remains a vivid reminder of the unpredictable force of the Andean volcanoes that stand sentinel over Ecuador.

There are many volcanoes in Ecuador, up to 100 depending on how you count them - several are located in Galapagos.  Many Ecuadorian volcanoes are considered active.   

 

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That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been saved from being released into the atmosphere due to our trips from January to June 2024 - thanks to CNH Tours' participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.   It took longer this semester to publish our results due to Gold Standards stricter reporting and due diligence requirements, requiring us to submit various bits of paperwork.  But all is good! 

The Gold Standard is rated as among the top best carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  For Galapagos, this amounts to the CO2 emitted by the domestic flight to the islands and to those emitted by the expedition cruise ship.

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own "Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide"

 

 

 

 

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Those of you considering one of our signature trips (Active Galapagos / Natural History Tours / Photography Workshops) have likely come upon our unusual trip names.  Amon them, you’ll find the names of animals and plants of Galapagos, island names (both the Spanish and English language versions), the names of champions of wildlife conservation or pioneers of evolutionary biology and the names of volcanoes or volcanic terminology.

The animal, plant and island names are obvious choices (animals/plants for even numbered years, and islands for odd numbered years).  We try to choose a representative sample, but at the same time, we’re constrained by wanting to have them appear in alphabetical order.   It’s all a bit of fun for us to choose these names.

For example, for our Active Galapagos trips:

Peperomia (Peperomia galapagensis):  A succulent epiphyte (growing on other plants), found only in Galapagos highlands, where conditions are more often moist.

 

Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliates): The American Oystercatcher bird is found all along the Pacific coast and in some areas of the Atlantic Ocean. In the Galapagos, they are found in the intertidal zone of most islands. Their population isn't big; around 400 birds live in the archipelago.

 

Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus): Possibly more iconic than the giant tortoise, the marine iguana conjures up the creature from the black lagoon…  The only lizard on Earth that feeds underwater.

 

 

Indefatigable (a.k.a. Santa Cruz Island):  Named by the British in honour of the HMS Indefatigable, a British Royal Navy ship.. The HMS Indefatigable was likely named for its role in significant naval engagements, and the island was named during the period when British explorers and naval officers were charting the Pacific.

 

Los Gemelos - sinkholes on the summit of Indefatigable (Santa Cruz) Island

 

Marchena Island: Named after Fray Antonio de Marchena, a Spanish friar. He is believed to have been an influential figure in the Spanish exploration of the New World, and his name was given to this island as a tribute. Like many other Galápagos Islands, it was named during the period of Spanish colonial exploration. Only two ships visit this island, once every two weeks each - and one of them is the Samba, used on our Active Galapagos trips (Born of Fire itinerary).  The snorkeling here is considered among the best in Galapagos by the naturalist guides. 

 

 

For our Natural History Tours, we’ve decided to use the names of people who’ve made significant contributions to nature conservation either through their scientific exploits, their advocacy and/or their tireless fieldwork.  

Carson: Rachel Carson (1907 – 1964) was a pioneering American marine biologist and conservationist whose work significantly shaped the modern environmental movement. Her groundbreaking book, Silent Spring (1962), raised awareness about the dangers of pesticide use, particularly DDT, and its detrimental effects on ecosystems and human health. Carson's meticulous research and compelling prose highlighted the interconnectedness of all living organisms and the impact of human actions on the environment. Her advocacy for responsible environmental stewardship led to increased public awareness, policy changes, and ultimately the establishment of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

 

 

Earle: Sylvia Earle (1935 - ), is a renowned marine biologist, explorer, and conservationist, often referred to as "Her Deepness" for her deep-sea explorations. Throughout her career, Earle has been a passionate advocate for ocean conservation, highlighting the importance of marine ecosystems and the urgent need to protect them from threats such as pollution, overfishing, and climate change. She played a pivotal role in the establishment of marine protected areas and has led numerous underwater expeditions, contributing to scientific research and public awareness of ocean health. Earle's work emphasizes the interconnectedness of life and the necessity of preserving the oceans for future generations, making her a leading figure in the global conservation movement.

 

Huxley: Julian Huxley (1887–1975), a prominent British evolutionary biologist. He was the grandson of Thomas Henry Huxley (Charles Darwin’s main advocate) and the brother of writer Aldous Huxley of “Brave New World” fame.  Julian Huxley was the first Director-General of UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) from 1946 to 1948. He was a key figure in the development of the organization's founding principles, emphasizing the importance of science and international cooperation in solving global issues. Huxley was also a noted advocate for evolutionary humanism, a philosophy he outlined in his work. He believed that humanity could consciously shape its own evolution through scientific advancement and education. 

 

Merlen:  Godfrey Merlen (1944-2023) was British by upbringing but a Galapagos resident since the 1970’s.  He was a champion of Galapagos conservation who dedicated much of his life to protecting and studying the Galápagos Islands.  A former colleague of CNH Tours founders, he became a key figure in various conservation efforts, particularly in marine conservation. Merlen was instrumental in promoting the protection of the Galápagos Marine Reserve and worked closely with local and international organizations to safeguard the islands' fragile ecosystems.  He loved messing about with boats.

 

 

Ortiz: Fernando I. Ortiz-Crespo (1942 – 2001) was an Ecuadorian biologist and ornithologist known for his pioneering research on hummingbirds. He made significant contributions to the study of Ecuador’s rich biodiversity, particularly focusing on the taxonomy and behavior of hummingbirds. Ortiz-Crespo was a professor at the Pontifical Catholic University of Ecuador and contributed to various conservation initiatives aimed at protecting Ecuador’s unique wildlife.

 

 

Wallace: Alfred Russel Wallace (1823 – 1913) was a British naturalist and biogeographer who is best known for independently formulating the theory of evolution through natural selection – and prompting Darwin to publish his theory before Wallace received full credit for it.  Wallace's extensive fieldwork in the Amazon Basin and the Malay Archipelago provided invaluable insights into biodiversity and the distribution of species.  Wallace was an early proponent of the idea that humans have a responsibility to conserve the natural world, emphasizing the need to protect ecosystems to ensure the survival of species. His contributions laid the groundwork for modern conservation biology and inspired future generations of naturalists and conservationists.

 

 

Watson: Paul Watson (1950 - ) is a Canadian-American environmental, conservation and animal rights activist, who founded the Sea Shepherd Society, an anti-poaching and direct action group focused on marine conservation activism. In the past, he has provide material support to the Galapagos National Park in the form of a patrol vessel.  

 

 

For our Photography Workshops, we decided to focus on volcanoes and volcano-themed terms, seeing that the Galapagos archipelago owes its existence to volcanic activity.  

Alcedo: Alcedo Volcano (1,130 m / 3,707 ft) is located mid-way between the southern and northern tips of Isabela Island.  It is still active, with fumaroles emitting columns of steam from inside its caldera. We’ve had the chance to hike to the top and walk around the caldera – a very impressive hike. 

 

 

La Cumbre:  La Cumbre volcano (1,476 metres / 4,843 ft) forms Fernandina Island, the westernmost, youngest and most pristine of the large Galapagos islands.  Still quite active with eruptions happening every few years.

 

 

Pahoehoe:  Pahoehoe is a type of lava with a smooth, billowy, or ropy surface that forms when basaltic lava flows spread out and cool. The word "pahoehoe" comes from Hawaiian and literally means "smooth".  You’ll see samples of this lava rock while exploring the islands.

 

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We’re in New York City this week.  While we are here mostly on a “working holiday”, our visit coincides with the United Nations General Assembly (UNGA). The UNGA is the central forum for member states to discuss global issues, coordinate international cooperation, and shape international law and policy.  Many heads of state are in town along with us! 

In 2000, the UNGA launched the Global Compact - a voluntary initiative designed to encourage businesses and organizations worldwide to adopt sustainable and socially responsible policies, and to report on their implementation. 

The event (hosted by Canadian jewelry brand Mejuri), was organized in partnership with the Consulate General of Canada in New York, and was designed to engage the Canadian companies of the UN Global Compact Network Canada, highlighting the actions it supports in pursuit of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

We met Elizabeth Dove the head of Global Compact Canada along with Geoff Gartshore, the deputy consul general, and representatives from several larger Canadian corporations who are members of the Global Compact (Enbridge, H20 Innovations, L’Oréal Canada and more). 

Global Compact Canada president Elizabeth Dove provides a progress report

 

While CNH Tours is too small to fully engage in the Global Compact, we are investing some resources (staff time and money) to do our best. For example, since 2022, we've been offsetting the carbon emissions generated during our trips, using the Gold Standard - which focuses on offsetting projects that support the UN's Sustainable Development Goals. 

But perhaps our main take-away was an insight on what CNH Tours can do, beyond focusing on our own business, to encourage our business partners / suppliers to leverage their positions to support environmental, social and good governance objectives.   For example, what can the Galapagos National Park do to ensure that ship itineraries are designed in such a way to reduce the overall carbon footprint of the expedition cruise ship fleet?  We can at least raise that question and hope to start a discussion about it.

CNH Tours part-time staffer, Justin Patry (currently completing a “Business and Environment” program at university) has taken an interest in the Global Compact and will be following-up on our behalf.  

 

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"Is itinerary X better than itinerary Y?"

We often get asked this question from guests trying to decide which ship / itinerary to book.  Commenting on the quality of a particular itinerary over the years has led us to dig a little deeper and to identify variables that contribute to a good itinerary.  Surprisingly, it’s not much about which visitor sites the ship takes you to.  There are other more important variables we keep in mind - variables that if you pin down, then the issue of visitor sites takes care of itself. 

But before we get into that, it’s important to understand how ship itineraries are designed in the first place. 

HOW ARE ITINERARIES MANAGED?

In Galapagos, as per National Park rules, all ships must follow a 14-night / 15-day circuit during which time they may not stop at a particular visitor site more than once (there are a few exceptions).  These itineraries may be divided into shorter segments.   Typically, segments consist of 2 x 7-night itineraries, or a combination of shorter ones.  Itineraries may be proposed by a ship, but the Galapagos National Park Service has the final say. 

Every ship’s itinerary is clearly described in a document emitted by the park (the “patente”).  A ship must adhere to the itinerary defined therein.   Using a few small patrol boats, the Park will occasionally carry out monitoring trips at sea to be sure each expedition cruise ship is adhering to its itinerary.  It’s also not unusual for ships to report on each other if one is  not respecting its patente. 

A patente will indicate which visitor sites a ship can go to, in what order, and at what times of the day.  Typically, the patente will give windows for visitation periods (for example, “from 6-8AM” or “from 8-10AM) and indicate which types of activities are permitted there (hiking, snorkeling, zodiac rides, kayaking/paddleboarding).  

This system has helped ensure the quality of the visitor experience.  No visitor site ends up being overloaded with people.   Between applying this system and also capping the capacity of the Galapagos expedition ship fleet (both in ship numbers and ship size), the Galapagos National Park Directorate has received widespread recognition around the world for its excellent expedition-ship visitor management work. 

WHAT FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO A SUPERIOR ITINERARY?

While most ships will touch upon a common set of visitor sites over the course of their 15 circuits (with some variation and exceptions), how they do it will vary from ship to ship.   The elements we consider in making a judgement on an itinerary include:

UNINTERRUPTED: As noted, all ships must follow a 15-day circuit, but no ship actually runs a full 15-day uninterrupted itinerary.  They will all divide the 15 days into shorter segments.  When ship-based tourism first started, uninterrupted itineraries typically consisted of 7 nights / 8 days on board.  Combining two such segments takes the ship through its full 15 day circuit.    But over time, in response to what ships perceived as market demand, more and more ships further segmented their circuits, offering shorter and shorter itineraries.  It’s now possible to embark on a 2-night / 3-day cruise (very few ships offer it – but it’s possible).   More common are ship segments consisting of 4, 5 and 6 days.  In these cases, a 15-day circuit can be divided into two 6-day and one 5-day segments, for example.

Regardless of the itinerary length you choose, we believe that it’s better to ensure it’s uninterrupted.  That means that while you’ll be on board, your ship will not be dropping off / picking up guests who are on the ship for shorter itinerary segments. An interrupted itinerary  has several drawbacks: 

1. The ship must go back to a port to drop off / pick up guests, preventing it from venturing off to distant reaches of the archipelago.
2. During the pick-up and drop-off times, the visitor experience for those not disembarking can be second rate – with the possibility of wasted time as you wait, or are being taken to second rate visitor sites near the port.
3. With a new group of guests on board (and possibly new naturalist guides), you will find the naturalist guides repeating the talks they gave you already. You’ll be going through another safety drill as well. 
4. A change in guests half-way through your trip, and possibly a change in naturalist guides and crew will make it harder for you to develop a sense of shared experience and camaraderie with your fellow travellers (which is often a significant part of the experience).

RECOMMENDATION:  Look for uninterrupted itineraries if possible.  Avoid choosing an itinerary that is a composite of shorter segments.

AVERAGE DISTANCE TRAVELLED / VISITOR SITE:  Some ship itineraries follow a logical progression through the archipelago, while other ships follow circuitous routes.   Following a poorly designed itinerary will have you spending more time underway, and it may put the captain under a certain amount of pressure to weigh anchor and get going to the next visitor site, which may require several hours of navigation.  This might mean that your naturalist guides will also be under pressure to have you back on board, possibly cutting short your time at a visitor site. 

Below, we show examples of two contrasting 8 day itineraries:

FIG. 1:  CIRCUITOUS ITINERARY

The itinerary above (a 100-passenger luxury ship) follows a circuitous route.  It navigates for over 320kms (200 miles), back and forth to the western side of the archipelago, only to stop at two visitor sites there.  It backtracks and then heads off to the easternmost visitor site in the islands.    Guests on this ship will be navigating an average of 88 kms (55 miles) / visitor site. 

FIG 2: LOGICAL ITINERARY

Above, we see an itinerary that maximizes the number of sites visited over the course of an 8 day. In this case (a 14-passenger tourist superior ship), guests on board will navigate  38 kms (24 miles) per visitor site, making for a much less hurried schedule.

A smaller visitor site to kms of navigation ratio contributes to a better overall visitor experience in our minds.

NUMBER OF TOWNS VISITED: While getting to experience “town life” in Galapagos contributes to one’s overall sense of discovery, and while we think it’s absolutely worthwhile doing so (we lived in Galapagos for 4 years after all!), we do believe that you are not flying all the way to Galapagos to spend an excessive amount of time in towns. For this reason, we favour itineraries which limit time spent in urban areas.  In figure 1 above, guests on that itinerary will spending time in two towns (Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), while those following the itinerary in figure 2 will spend time in only one town (Puerto Ayora).  Guests keen on experiencing island life are encouraged to extend their time in Galapagos post-cruise for a few days (it can be a lot more economical to visit towns based in a hotel than on a ship!), allowing them to get the land-legs back and to decompress.  We offer that option for our trips. 

NUMBER OF VISITOR SITES / DAY: At the end of the day, we assume you want to be exposed to the greatest diversity of Galapagos ecosystems and landscapes both above and below the sea while in Galapagos.  The more visitor sites you experience, the greater the depth and breadth of your overall experience.   In this regard, we consider the number of visitor sites / day for an itinerary, and the higher the number, the better the itinerary.  For example, most ships will squeeze in a final visitor site on the last day of a cruise, before having guests disembark.  But some ships don’t.  They feed you breakfast and take you to the airport.  These kinds of factors make a difference to the overall itinerary quality.  

NUMBER OF “NON-VISITOR” SITES: Some visitor sites are underwhelming.  Of course, it can be subjective.  But in our minds, the following sites do not warrant being included on an itinerary:

1. Whale watching: Some ships include this as an activity in the afternoon (with nothing else on the program) – typically as a fill-in for a long navigation. In reality, you can whale watch anytime while navigating in the archipelago.
2. Circumnavigation of an island: Typically either Daphne Major, or Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock), we do not consider sailing around an island as a quality visitor experience.  
3. Visiting a museum: There is one museum in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (a bit long in the tooth now).  While it provides interesting insights on the history of Galapagos,  frankly, you won't learn anything news if you've already gone through a decent Galapagos guide book, and missing out on a hike / snorkel or other activity in exchange for a museum visit is not recommended, in our minds.   Typically, this visitor site is included for those whose itineraries are interrupted, and the ship has to disembark/embark new guests on shorter segments of your longer cruise. 

 

HOW ABOUT THE RELATIVE QUALITY OF VISITOR SITES ON A PARTICULAR ITINERARY?

Not all visitor sites provide the same experience.  Some are commonly understood by visitors (at least those most active on social media) as being among the most spectacular, while others are considered rather dull.  

It’s not that simple. 

There are a variety of attributes that contribute to the quality of a visitor site.  Some of those attributes are constant (example: The otherworldly volcanic landscape), while others are seasonal (example: Nesting waved albatross). Other attributes are haphazard (example: Nesting blue footed boobies – who nest opportunistically – you never know when).  

Some sites have beautiful beaches that are much appreciated after a long and busy day – but otherwise offer little in terms of wildlife.   Is that a good visitor site?  It’s in the eye of the beholder of course.

Most 8-day itineraries that rate well against the criteria above will expose you to a similar subset of visitor sites, wildlife experiences, hiking and snorkeling options and more.  We suggest that you should not be overly concerned about which individual visitor sites you will be experiencing on each itinerary as a way to compare itineraries.  Trying to make sense of all the combinations and permutations of different visitor sites on different itineraries will take you on the road to feeling absolutely overwhelmed.

Only if you are determined to witness a particular species in the wild (for instance, the flightless cormorant or the waved albatross) should you look closely at the component visitor sites on an itinerary.  We can of course help you with that. 

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With Tui de Roy

With our sister agency, Galapagos Travel, we will be offering what we consider to be the best photography workshops available in Galapagos.  Why?

• They are designed with the support of, and led by Tui de Roy, the pre-eminent Galapagos professional photographer. Tui grew up in Galapagos, was among the first cohort of Park- certified naturalist guides and went on to become a globally recognized award-winning wildlife photographer. Tui can ensure that you will be in the right places at the right times so that opportunities for capturing stunning and unique images are maximized. Only a photographer with a decades-long experience in exploring and photographing the archipelago can provide this kind of guidance.   

• Small group: We can host a maximum of 15 people.

• Two excellent naturalist guides, hand-picked by Tui de Roy, ensuring wonderful synergies among your expedition staff, and allowing for greater versatility during excursions. 

• Ship and itinerary having received the full endorsement of your lead photographer. 

• A comfortable catamaran in the first-class category. 

• Two days pre-cruise in a very comfortable boutique hotel, giving you a chance to recuperate from your international travel, and to get to know this World Heritage city.
  
  
• Suitable for travel partners who are not photographers: We'll have two naturalist guides and a tour leader for a highly versatile experience. 

We are offering one trip in July 2025 and two trips in May and July 2026.  Prices start at US$14,465 (shared).  If you are travelling solo but willing to share, we will help you find roommate for the ship portion of the trip.   

For more information, or if you’re ready to book, please see our website.

Tui de Roy - up for an early start to her day

 

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We’ve been helping people plan and book their travel plans for 25 years.   While Galapagos is our focus, over the past few years, we’ve added a number of destinations for which we feel we can provide value added.   Madagascar, Provence, Antarctica, Okavango/Kalahari, Easter Island and the Pantanal are now on our palette. 

Most of the time though, tourism infrastructure is designed to accommodate people who travel in pairs.  Most particularly, hotel rooms and ship berths are priced for occupation by two people.   As a result, it is very difficult to offer trips for solo travellers at a price equivalent to, or at least very close to the per person price for people travelling in pairs. 

In our experience, this solo traveller price premium (ranging from 30% to 95% of the price of a shared accommodation rate) has held a lot of people back from travelling.  And that’s a pity.

To address this issue, CNH Tours has developed its SOLO TRAVELLER MATCHING SERVICE.   This is how it works:

• Tell us a bit about yourself (first name, where you live, age range, recent travel experience and what you liked about it, what two or three words would your best friends use to describe you).
• Tell us which trip(s) you are hoping to join.

When two people express interest in the same trip, we share one’s information with the other (without the contact details), asking them if they’d like us to make introductions.  If both say yes, we proceed and let them take it from there.

We’ve already had a couple of successful matches since we started this service. 

If you’d like to sign up – here are the links:

Galapagos solo traveller matching service

Other trips solo traveller matching service

 

We’re always happy to receive feedback.   Bon voyage!

No year end holiday plans yet? 

We've organized a trip that's guaranteed to have you end the year, and start the new one, with wonderful and lasting memories. 

We're running our first Natural History Workshop, from 18-30 December 2024, with an option to extend your stay in an nice boutique hotel for two extra days, allowing you to witness and enjoy the unique and colourful new year's eve celebrations as they are carried out in Ecuador, and in particular, in Galapagos.  

What is a Natural History Workshop?

• Longer, uninterrupted expedition cruise (11 days on board for this departure) - the only such cruise in Galapagos
• Two hand-picked naturalist guides, for a 8:1 ratio of guides to guests
• Full days, starting as early as dawn and into the evening (all activities optional of course)
• Slow paced - spending more time engaged with wildlife and landscapes both above and below the sea
• Curated evening presentations on various natural history topics pertinent to your trip

DATES:  18-30 December 2024, includes 2 days in Quito and 12 days on the ship.

NEW YEAR'S EVE IN GALAPAGOS OPTION:  After the cruise, spend 2 days / 2 nights in a very comfortable boutique hotel in Galapagos and enjoy the celebrations. 

PRICE:

• Standard trip (12 nights / 13 days): US$7,862 / person sharing
• With New Year's Even option (14 nights / 15 days): US$8,315 sharing.   Travelling solo?  Contact us. 

 

More information on our Natural History Workshops

 

"Out with the old, in with the new!".  Año Viejo papier maché figures are elaborately constructed in preparation for the New Year's eve celebration.  At the stroke of midnight, they all go up in flames, condemning to the ashes representaitons of unpleasant memories, events or people of the previous year. 

 

 

We've been very busy organizing all the details of this trip over the past few months.  We've finally dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's. Here are the details:

DATES: 2-16 February 2025

STARTS/ENDS:  In Santiago, Chile

BRIEF ITINERARY:

• 4 nights on the mainland:  Santiago, Casablanca valley wineries, and UNESCO World Heritage city of Valparaiso on the coast
• 5 nights on Easter Island: Guided by Easter Island native, and nationally recognized guide Josie Nahoe.  We are there during the annual Tapati festival - perfect timing!
• 4 nights on Chiloé Island:  Chile's capital of folkore and tradition, World Heritage wooden churches, curanto feasts, coastal forest hikes and penguins.

PRICE:  US$9,600 / person, shared accommodation.  Solo price:  US$12,700 (includes domestic flights).  We have a solo traveller matching service - sign up here if you're interested.

FIND ALL THE DETAILS, AND BOOKING FORM HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the natural world, the concept of distinct species often seems straightforward. A lion is not a house cat – that’s pretty clear.  However, upon closer examination, the boundary between different species can be surprisingly blurred. The Galapagos giant tortoises provide an insight into this ambiguity. 

Inter-species cuddling

Galapagos tortoises are thought to have arrived in the islands a few million years ago, their ancestors having floated over from the mainland. They are renowned for their longevity and distinctive shell shapes, have evolved into numerous distinct populations across the islands. These populations exhibit variations in size, shape, behavior, and even diet, reflecting their adaptation to diverse island environments.  Ever since taxonomists first started describing them, a debate has raged as to whether the different giant tortoise populations were the same species, or comprised several different species. 

Take, for instance, the case of the Española and Santa Cruz tortoises. Despite residing on different islands and exhibiting notable physical differences, genetic analysis has revealed that these tortoises are remarkably similar at the molecular level. This genetic similarity challenges traditional notions of species distinction and raises intriguing questions about evolutionary relationships.

Same species?

The complexity of Galapagos tortoise taxonomy highlights the broader challenge of defining species in the natural world. While traditional classification methods rely on observable traits and geographic isolation, genetic analysis reveals a more nuanced reality. Evolutionary processes such as genetic drift, natural selection, and migration can lead to intricate patterns of divergence and convergence among populations, defying simple categorization.

At the end of the day, and most surprisingly to the taxonomically naïve, we learn that the concept of a species itself is not rigid but rather a human construct aimed at organizing the diversity of life.  At one point, the lion and the housecat had a common ancestor – but when, in their evolutionary divergence, would we have been able to definitively draw a line between the common ancestor species, and the two different species? 

ICZN members vote on new species 

It turns out that the line is drawn by the International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature (ICZN) - the global authority responsible for the scientific naming and classification of animals. It establishes and maintains rules and guidelines for the naming of animal species.  The ICZN provides a framework for resolving taxonomic disputes, clarifying rules for naming new species, and promoting stability and consistency in zoological nomenclature. Its decisions and recommendations are widely respected and followed by taxonomists, researchers, and scientific journals around the world.

Last Thursday night, I was giving a talk about our September 2025 trip to the Provence in the south of France. About 45 people were participating.  During the Q&A session that followed the talk, we got to discussing other destinations, including Antarctica.  For some reason, the discussion reverted back to Galapagos.  Most of the people on the talk were Galapagos alumni.   Jim and Joyce from Alaska, and Jill from California just jumped in to say how wonderful their trip had been.  Johanna, from British Columbia, was reassured, explaining to the others that she was scheduled to head to Galapagos next month.   

Click here to see the 90 second video.

 

 

Jim and Joyce from Alaska "One of the few trips I've done that I would do again"

 

Last January 8^th, a drug lord escaped from a prison in Ecuador.  His escape was soon followed by an armed gang bursting into a television studio during a live broadcast, brandishing arms (they were all arrested).  These events, particularly the live streaming of the armed gang, made international headlines.   While the government of Ecuador quickly and effectively responded, and while the violence associated with those events was brought under control within 2 days, the international community was left with a lasting impression of total insecurity in the entire country.  

As a result of that impression, many people with travel plans to Ecuador decided to cancel. At CNH Tours, almost all our booked guests with upcoming trips to Ecuador carried on with their plans.  Since the events of the 8 of January, over 100 of our guests have completed their trips to Galapagos, the Amazon, the cloud forest, through Guayaquil and beyond - and we’ve not received one report from any of them indicating any sense of insecurity. 

We responded to guests expressing concerns by sharing our experience with this kind of situation.  CNH Tours has been closely involved in Ecuador since 1998, when its owners (Marc and Heather) first moved there to take up a job at the Charles Darwin Research Station.  We started helping people with their Ecuador travel plans in 1999 (a friend’s cruise).  Over these past 25 years, we’ve witnessed many instances of disruption in the country, including:

• Dollarization – when the entire economy switched from the former currency, the Sucre, to the US Dollar leading to high degrees of uncertainty;
• Eruption of the Pichincha volcano, closing the Quito airport;
• Several popular “invasions” or demonstrations in Quito, with rural people streaming into the city, some leading to the overthrow of the government, others resulting in the burning down of the country’s tax agency headquarters;
• A triumvirate – where a president was run out of the country, to be replaced by a short-lived presidency simultaneously held by three co-presidents;
• Fishermen’s strikes in Galapagos, blocking the main road in Santa Cruz, and access to the local docks…

Never, in any of these situations, were any of our guests targeted.   In the worst-case scenario, our guests may have had to spend a night in a hotel closer to the airport instead of in the city – to avoid any transport delays on their way to Galapagos.   Never did any of our guests (or any other visitor to the country, to our knowledge) feel threatened.

It has been our experience that such disruptions in the regular day to day life of Ecuadorians are typically very limited in scope, very short-lived, and never target visitors. 

Based on our 25 year experience in the country, and thanks to our good network of local contacts, it was clear to us that by the 10^th of January, things were a lot less serious than what the images in the media led us to believe.   We felt comfortable reassuring our guests that the risk level to them was very low (nothing is risk free of course) and we encouraged them not to cancel their trips.

Unfortunately, images broadcast on television and the internet fuelled an undue sense of panic. Even today, I’m seeing many questions on social media, wondering if it’s now safe to travel to Ecuador.   I respond that it has been as safe as it has always been.  

Niels Olsen - Minister for Tourism, Ecuador

During our recent 3.5 weeks in Ecuador, we asked hospitality workers and business representatives how the events had affected their business.  Almost all reported cancellations and a drop in sales.  The hotel we use in Quito (Mama Cuchara) was almost empty (26 rooms) – thankfully, our not-for-profit friend’s trip helped bring in business there (17 rooms for 2 nights) and most of our other guests will spend at least a night there.   The owner of the hotel asked if CNH Tours would be willing to speak with the Minister of Tourism (Niels Olsen) – a contact of his – and share our thoughts about the situation in Ecuador.  We spoke with the Minister and he sent a small team of videographers to capture our thoughts.    You can see the video here, on their Instagram account.   

 Mama Cuchara boutique hotel

 

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[Bolivar Channel, Western Isabela Island - Galapagos]

(updated 17 March 2024)

In its meeting this past Saturday, the authority in charge of such things voted to increase the Galapagos national park entrance fee from $100 to $200 for foreigners, and from $7 to $30 for Ecuadorians.   

This has been a very long time coming.  The effective cost of entering the park has not changed since the late 1980s (at that time, there were 3 elements to the fee, adding up to $100 - these were combined into a single fee in 1998).   

Back in the 1990's, $100 represented up to 10% of the cost of a budget 8 day cruise in Galapagos.  Today, given that the price of cruise has increased regularly over the intervening period, $100 represents approximately only 2% of such an expense.  Visitors to the islands are leaving significantly more in tips than they leave with the authorities in charge of managing the park.

CNH Tours, through its membership in the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA), has been actively advocating for an increase in the entrance fee.  IGTOA canvassed its members in 2017 and concluded that an entrace fee of $300 would be acceptable. The authorities have decided to raise it to $200 - which we find reasonable.  

We're pleased to see this development. It has been very difficult to have the authority in charge to pass such a change.  Of the 9 votes, 5 voted for the fee increase, 4 against.   Those who voted against were the 4 local municipal representatives.  Many locals fear that an increase in the fee will discourange budget travellers.  These travellers all choose the "land-based" model of tourism in Galapagos, staying in low-end hotels, spending in low-end eateries, and often engaging only in free activities, leaving very little money behind after their visit, yet requiring a disproportionate amount of municipal and other services.  

The "land-based" vs "ship-based" debate has been going on for years.   Recent numbers show that about 260,000 land-based visitors came to Galapagos last year (up from about zero 25 years ago), vs. 70,000 ship-based visitors (no significant difference from 25 years ago).  While the cruise ship fleet capacity has been striclty capped for 25 years, there is no such restriction on the number of visitors than can come to Galapagos on a land-based visitor model. 

Galapagos is unique on the planet and its ecosystems are very vulnerable to the introduction and dispersal of alien invasive species.  These species arrive thanks to the movement of people and goods from the mainland.  Limiting the number of visitors to the islands is a critical 1st step in trying to manage this risk.

While we believe that the increase will not affect visitor numbers, it is at least a sign that the authorities are starting to recognize the problem of overtourism in Galapagos.  UNESCO's intergovernmental World Heritage Committee first raised this concern in 2017.  Until as recently as last year, the minister of tourism was celebrating "record numbers of visitors in Galapagos".   While in Galapagos in February / March, we had the chance to speak with the minister (Niels Olsen) and we were pleased to see that he has made a 180 degree turn in his attitude.  

Thankfully, the ship-based visitor experience has not changed significantly over the years. Access to visitor sites is strictly regulated, and only a set number of visitors are permitted to disembark at any given time.  

What does this mean for CNH Tours guests who have already booked their trip?

If your trip has you arriving in Galapagos on the 1st of August 2024 or beyond, the new fee will apply to you.  There are two scenarios:

1. If the park fee was included in your invoice, either as a separate line item, or as part of the cruise price, we will need to invoice you for the difference.
2. If the park fee was not included in your invoice or as part of the cruise price (you are expected to pay on arrival in Galapagos), we will not be invoicing you for the difference, but you will need to come prepared on arrival in Galapagos with the proper amount in cash.  

We copy-paste the press released published yesterday (Google Translated from Spanish) below:

In an extraordinary meeting, this February 24, 2024, with five votes in favor and four against, the Plenary Session of the Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos approved the update of the income rate for conservation of protected areas in the archipelago. The figure had not been modified in the last 26 years.

 The collegiate body is made up of the highest authorities of the institutions: Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos; Municipal GAD of San Cristóbal, Isabela and Santa Cruz; National Planning Secretariat; Ministries of: Agriculture and Livestock; Environment, Water and Ecological Transition and Tourism. A representative of the parish GAD also participates. 

The decision responds to the objectives of promoting a tourism model in accordance with the conservation actions already undertaken, generating citizen benefits and stabilizing the number of tourists who come to the island province. Thus, the cost to enter the protected areas in Galapagos will be USD 30 (thirty) for nationals and USD 200 (two hundred) for foreigners. The application of the new rate will take place after six months. 

According to the “Conservation Report on Properties Inscribed on the World Heritage List” issued by UNESCO, it is a priority to stabilize the growth in tourism volume to maintain the well-being of both the ecosystem and the inhabitants of Galapagos. The objective is to promote tourism focused on sustainability and the ability to boost the local economy, thanks to the natural wonders that the islands offer, unique in the world. 

On the other hand, it seeks to strengthen the management of decentralized autonomous governments, responsible for the provision and efficient administration of water services, environmental sanitation, waste, tourist facilities, urban fauna management, among others, capable of generating more benefits for Galapagos citizens in terms of conservation and economic development. 

To update the rate, length of stay, age, disability condition, tourism model, nationality or legal residence in the country was demonstrated, in accordance with article 29 of the Organic Law of the Special Regime of the province of Galapagos (LOREG). 

The National Government promotes environmental, tourist and economic management focused on motivating development and balance in the Islands, recognized by UNESCO as a Natural Heritage of Humanity (1978) and a Biosphere Reserve (1984).

 

 

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All guests returning from their "Active Galapagos" trips to Galapagos with us receive an automatic email inviting them to provide some feedback on their recent experience.  Usually, this is a useful way to do some "quality control" on the trip. But almost invariably, there is very little in the feedback that calls for improvements!  Here, Lee Ann Coughlin from New Hampshire (she was on our Anemone departure - 21 Jan - 1st Feb).  She did indicate that 2 cabins had malfunctioning air conditioning units.  We contacted the owner upon learning this, and within 30 minutes, we received a response indicating that the units had been repaired during the trip.  

Below are Lee Ann's unedited responses to our survey questions: 


Trip Overview document improvements?  If you wish, please let us know how could CNH Tours improve its "Trip Overview Document"

The AXUS portal was brilliant! All of the information you could possibly need was right there, well organized and thorough.

Quito City day tour suggestions We welcome your thoughts on the city tour / comments on your guide.

Juan Paul was a tremendous guide! We went everywhere and saw everything! We especially liked the chocolate tasting and the cable car ride. I can't say enough about Juan Paul, he is so enthusiastic about the city and a very nice guy!

 

Top of the world swing set - hung from the clouds? Accessible via the cable car 

Airport transfers (to and from Galapagos)  For those of you who requested private transfers:  If you had any problems, or if you have any suggestions for improvements on how the transfers to the airports were carried out, please share them with us here.

The transfers were wonderful, as were the guides who met us at the airport. We felt so taken care of, we never had a moment of "where do we go, what do we do". Everything was so well planned for us.

Tony Sotomayor - always at the airport to provide assistance

Comments for / about the naturalist guide Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the guide's performance. (optional)

Jimmy must be one of the best guides in the Galapagos! He was kind, patient, enthusiastic, funny and extremely knowledgeable. When dolphins were spotted we all jumped in dinghy's and swam with the dolphins. An extraordinary experience! He made sure every guest on the boat had a great time.

The indefatigable Jimmy Patiño

Comments about the crew Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the crew's performance (optional)

We found the crew to be gracious, kind and hard working. Our dinghy drivers, Ricardo and Roberto helped me on and off the dinghy, and in and out of the kayaks, always with a smile. Fredo was a great bartender and waiter and the chef was brilliant.

Over-the-top dedication:  Samba crew

Comments on the meals Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the dining experience (optional)

The meals blew us away! Always different, fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, quality meats, fish, chicken. Freshly made snacks and appetizers waiting when you came in from snorkeling. And dessert at lunch and dinner!

Delicious and nutritious

Comments on off-ship excursions  Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the off ship excursions (optional)

The excursions were top notch! Jimmy taught us so much so much about the Galapagos. Every one of our expectations were met.

 

Making like a marine iguana

Comments on the days in Puerto Ayora Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism of the time in Puerto Ayora (optional)

Our time in Puerto Ayora was made special by our guide Nathalie. We learned so much about life in the Galapagos and Nathalie is charming and fun! We especially liked the visit to a small rural coffee farm.

 

Highland Galapagos coffee

Puerto Ayora Hotel comments  If you stayed at the hotel in Galapagos post cruise, please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism (rooms, staff, cleanliness, buffet breakfast... - optional).  What did they do best?  What low hanging fruit is there in terms of improvements to be made?

The Ikala was extremely clean, the rooms are very large, and the staff was some of the nicest we have encountered in our travels. The included breakfast was also wonderful.

Puerto Ayora lodgings - getting your land legs back here is as good as it gets

 

Quotable comments on your trip? Please feel free to leave any "quotable comments / sound bites" we could eventually use on our website.

A trip of a lifetime! Just pack your bags and go, Heather and her team have taken care of all the details. The trip on the Samba with the guide and the wonderful crew will take your breathe away.

A week ago, people around the world started hearing about troubles in Ecuador, sparked by the prison escape of a drug lord. Images of armed goons (they didn’t give the impression they were from an organized and disciplined group) taking over a live TV broadcast were seen.   News that prison guards were being held hostage and that bomb threats were being made was shared widely, along with images of chaos in Guayaquil, a large port city.  

In response, the newly elected president, Daniel Noboa, imposed an 11PM – 5AM curfew throughout the country (expiring on 8 March).  With full support of the national assembly, he also imposed a national state of emergency for the weekend of 13-14 January only, giving extra powers to the military and to police to round up the suspects.

Today, we learn that all prison guard hostages have been released, prisons are back in government control and over 1,000 arrests of drug gang members have been made.  Over the past few days, we have heard from various government sources, and from our own CNH Tours colleagues in Quito, Guayaquil and Galapagos that things have returned to normal. Today, January 15, 2024, the Mayor of Guayaquil announced that normal activities (with a strong army presence) have resumed in Guayaquil.

To be sure, there is increased police / military presence in key places (airports, government buildings).

The country is experiencing calm as stores reopen, employees return to their offices, and visitation returns to the historic centre of Quito (with the exception of the central square in front of the Presidential Palace, which remains closed). 

The Guayaquil and Quito Airports are operating normally.  Members of the army are checking all cars entering the security perimeter of the airport so please allow for an extra 20 – 30 minutes to your normal travel time to allow for your vehicle to be inspected.

International arrival and departure flights are operating normally (with the exception of issues relating to winter storms and Boeing jets grounded for technical concerns).

Galapagos a refuelling station for drug shipments?

Today we saw stories in the press about Galapagos being the fuelling station for drug shipments, as traffickers move their product from South America to North America by sailing far out at sea, south, then west of the Galapagos archipelago and then northwards – staying away from government patrols which tend to monitor waters closer to shore (though the US Coast Guard does carry out monitoring patrols in international waters around the archipelago - see this story).  Needing to refuel, there has been some collusion between local fishermen and the drug dealers. Fishermen buy fuel purportedly for their operations and head out to sea, far from the regular monitoring patrols of the navy / coast guard, meet up with the dealers and make their trade.  

The authorities have been capturing such drug dealing ships for years, but apparently there is more and more such traffic beyond the boundaries of the Galapagos marine reserve.   A record 25 tons of cocaine were seized from such ships in 2023 according to the Ecuadorian navy (up from 1 ton in 2019).  These activities do not intersect with those of expedition cruise ships, which navigate well within the marine reserve waters.  

Vote of confidence

While there is no such thing as zero-risk travel, at CNH Tours, we are confident that travel within Ecuador and the Galapagos islands is as low risk as it was before these recent events. While we recognize that our guests first need to be comfortable in their own decision to travel and that they need to be the final arbiters in the matter, we hope to reassure them that there is no longer any cause for increased concern following last week’s events. 

 

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Back, way back in 2001 somewhere in Puerto Ayora, the eminence grise* of the Galapagos guiding community Greg Estes and CNH Tours owners Marc & Heather (before CNH Tours existed...) were talking over lunch on a hot, steamy March day about "the ideal Galapagos expedition cruise".  We were working at the Darwin Station at the time and had somehow crossed paths with Greg a couple of years earlier.  He impressed us with his knowledge, focus and leadership type personality. We had hired him to lead our “Galapagos Amigos” not-for-profit cruise set up for our friends, shortly after our arrival in Galapagos.

"Galapagos Amigos" trip in 2000.  Marc Patry, Heather Blenkiron (and Émile) circled

Greg was about 40 at the time and had been guiding already for several years, while we were just contemplating getting into chartering ships for Galapagos expedition cruises on a more regular basis.   

"You know", Greg said, "I really feel sorry when folks get on a ship whose crew and naturalist guide take a lackadaisical approach to visiting the islands – what a missed opportunity".  He went on to explain that in too many cases, the ship experience was being managed like a holiday, and not an expedition. “The guide has guests get up at 7AM, they have breakfast, and they are off by 8AM on their first outing of the day.  That’s two lost hours of daylight – and two of the best hours for wildlife in Galapagos”.  For Greg (and we agree), visiting Galapagos should be approached as a rare privilege – one that should not be approached nonchalantly.  “And then the naturalist guide rushes through a trail so that he can let them lounge on a beach”.

Greg Estes at the Galapagos "Post Office", Floreana Island (back in 2000) 

“You only have a short time here – and there is so much to be exposed to, to experience, to see, hear, feel and witness” he added. We agreed again. It was during that conversation that the term “Active Galapagos” came up. What if we organized trips that were designed for people who were keen to get the most “Galapagos” out of their time in the islands? What if we told them this trip would be active  – that we’d get them up at the crack of dawn (or even earlier…) to ensure they got to see the wildlife at its most active?  What if we took our time on the shore excursions, spending 1.5 hours on a 1-mile (1.6km) hike, stopping frequently to just take it all in? What if we took full advantage of all the snorkeling/kayaking opportunities? 

It was that discussion that led us to develop the “Active Galapagos” trip.  CNH Tours first chartered the 16 guest Lobo de Mar for our trips – but soon the ship dumped us in exchange for a large contract with a big international travel company.  We had to find another ship.  It’s no longer clear how we came across the 14 guest Samba – but the fit was perfect.  Locally owned and operated, the Samba is 100% “on-board” with the Active Galapagos philosophy.   We started with 4 charters / year, but quickly realized that the desire to get the most out of a Galaagos trip was widespread.  We added more and more departures and now, we run between 20-24 Active Galapagos charters / year. 

Samba anchored off Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island

 

To be sure we stay on top of things, we survey all of our returning guests over a comprehensive list of indicators, measuring their satisfaction with various aspects of the trip. Guests rate their experience on a 1-5 scale. Using a simple algorithm, we translated that into a percentage rating.  We proudly present the results below:

CNH Tours Active Galapagos trip report card

Clearly, our guests are very satisfied with their trip - and embarrassingly, it seems one of the indicators that has the greatest room for improvement is our own responsiveness (only 94.6% satisfaction rate...). 

Post Samba time in Galapagos receives the lowest score at 83.2% (still very good after all) - that refers to the two (optional) extra nights we offer to our guests, giving them the time to get their land legs back and enjoy some down time after their full days on board. We are happy to give people a chance to get to know what life is like for those living in Galapagos - and these 2 days do just that.  Perhaps for some, the shock of disembarking from a cozy small ship, after having sailed to the remote corners of the archipelago, and to be re-introduced to a busy urban area is a let-down?  

 

* With his wife Thalia Grant, Greg is the co-author of the book: "Darwin in Galapagos: Footsteps to a New World" in which they publish the results of their extensive work retracing Darwin's day to day travels in Galapagos.

 

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Fireworks were banned in Galapagos in 2018 over concerns that the loud noises were detrimental to wildlife (that makes sense to us). However, the text of the regulations allowed for the opiton of "soundless" fireworks. This ambiguity has led to a major polemic going on in the islands these days.

The town of Puerto Ayora organized fireworks on new year's eve, despite not having received the authorization of the police, which we presume was a requirement. While many in Galapagos enjoy fireworks, a large portion of residents recognize that the islands should do without them, given their special status.

 

New Year's eve fireworks in Puerto Ayora on 31 Dec '23

The fireworks display led to major criticism on behalf of those that thought they were banned.  In response to the growing criticism, a press conference was held on 3 January, with the park director and the head of the Galapagos regional government, to clarify the situation. The director (Juan Chavez, an old work colleague of ours when we was working in the islands) clearly indicated that the park was against all forms of fireworks, even those considered "silent" - and he explained that silent ones still make a lot of noise and emit a lot of smoke.

 

Jan. 6 press conference - Juan Chavez (right) makes his case. President of the regional government Edwin Altamirano, and a government technician.

Things got more heated the following days, and on Saturday 6 January, he was fired from his job. We can only presume that this was in response to pressure from proponents of fireworks, mostly local municipal politicians.

This is an unfortunate development. Many residents have recognized that a unique Galapagos island culture needs to evolve to ensure that the human presence in the islands is in tune with the special status of Galapagos. A lot of effort has gone into promoting this change. The fireworks case we are seeing now is an illustration of the challenges they face.

Over the years, the development of an island culture in tune with its environment has been a growing theme.  Practices such as keeping domestic animals such as cats and dogs are considered not in line with an island culture.  These are not native to Galapagos and prone to going feral and preying on native species.  They can also carry diseases that could be transmitted to wildlife (the very contagious and deadly canine distemper can be transmitted to sea lions for example). But banning pets among a growing population is not as simple as publishing a new decree.  

There have been some successes.  CNH Tours is involved in promoting local artists for example, and we hire a local group of musicians who sing songs about Galapagos life from time to time.  There are local small environmental NGOs that focus on instilling a sense of Galapagos pride and culture among children. 

CNH Tours contributes $10/guest to the Intenational Galapagos Tour Operators' Association - which in turn supports the development of a local island culture.  ECOS is one such recipient of IGTOA support.

 

This is a developing story. There is a lot of pressure on the part of residents and conservation organizations to re-instate the director. We'll see what happens. If you are traveling to the island in the coming days or weeks you might want to ask any locals you meet what they think about this situation. That should start an interesting conversation.

 

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Galapagos:  We are TripAdvisor's Destination Expert

Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

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Provence Discovery:  14 guests - 15 days - 3 luxury villas.  September 2025 

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Planes can be fast… but a zen experience they are not.  CNH Tours co-founders Heather Blenkiron and Marc Patry are on day 5 of an 8-day crossing of the Atlantic Ocean on the Queen Mary 2 (QM2).   This is the third time we’ve moved between the new and the old worlds by ship.   

The trip is a far cry from a Galapagos or Antarctica cruise.  First of all, it’s not a “cruise” per se, but a “crossing”.   We’re not sailing around from visitor site to visitor site, disembarking/embarking.  No – we are simply going from Southampton to New York City, heading home after several weeks in Provence, where we house sat for old friends and did some research for a trip we’re planning there (September 2025).  

Position of the Queen Mary 2 on Friday 24 November, 9AM ship time

We’re quite keen on these crossings.  If you have the time, they are a very elegant, very comfortable and surprisingly inexpensive way to cross the Atlantic.  It’s like spending a week at a higher end “all-inclusive” resort with all the usual accoutrements. 

The QM2 offers a variety of dining options, from fancy restaurants, buffet style, pub food and more, all with extensive wine, beer and cocktail menus.  There is a wide-ranging program of activities and lectures, live music (their jazz ensemble is stellar) and stage performances.  Sailings may be themed - we happen to be on “Literature Festival at Sea” trip – with a few dozen journalists, authors, radio personalities and more on board offering all kinds of talks, presentations and discussions.  Looking to stay in shape? There's a good gym, two pools - and five times around the main deck will get you one mile under your belt. 

Over the course of the week, for those who are keen, the ship will host 2 or 3 “formal dinner / gala / dancing” evenings.  To participate, you will be required to dress accordingly (black tie, evening dresses etc..).  Our impression is that about ¼ of the guests on board take part.   While there is an effort to re-create the “grand old days of Atlantic crossings” type of feel in terms of dress code (you don’t see much of sweatpants / t-shirts / crocs at all on board), the overall mood is pretty relaxed.  

One of our favourite lounges - the Commodore Club - offers a commanding view of the ship's bow and the sea beyond.  A great place for your morning coffee.

The ship is large and handles the seas very well.  We had gale force winds yesterday and the waters were “somewhat lively” shall we say!  There was definitely some heeling going on, but very manageable.  I suppose it comes with the territory when crossing the north Atlantic at the end of November… On our previous two sailings, during summer months, we were hard-pressed to feel any motion at all during the entire crossings. 

A typical balcony stateroom

Based on our observations, about 90% of the people on board are in their 60's and 70's and from what we could gather, they are quite a well-educated group of people with interesting life stories. Encounters with other guests are common, be it at a shared pub-style table over lunch or sitting next to each other at one of the evening performances.   Folks are generally keen to chat – but as we have CNH Tours work to do while on the ship (such as, for instance, writing news items for our website...), we have been able to easily eclipse ourselves for parts of the day, either retreating to our comfortable cabin or finding a quiet corner somewhere in one of the several cozy lounges (the internet is quite good). 

The jazz band in the Chart Room - playing on the Queen Mary 2 for many years.  It doesn't get much better than that.

We’ve taken the time to carry out a thorough inspection of the ship, its cabins (“staterooms” to use the local vernacular), various restaurants and venues.  We’ve taken note of the pros and cons of different cabin classes in different parts of the ship.  There are a number of variables to keep in mind – upper decks vs lower decks, forward vs aft vs mid-ship berths, sheltered / regular balconies or no balcony, solo cabins, interior berths, location of cabins in relation to the different staircases/elevators (the ship is longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall), port vs starboard sides… 

It's well worth choosing a strategically located cabin - it can make a big difference to your on-board experience (we recommend mid- to mid-aft ship, lower decks, near, but not directly in front of the C staircase...).  

A lively stage production at the 1,100 seat Royal Theatre

CNH Tours is registered with Cunard – we can help you book a stateroom best suited to your travel style.  Prices start at about US$1,200 / person shared for the 7-night / 8-day crossing (inside cabin).  For about US$1,700 / person, you can book a cabin with a deck. There are about two dozen attractively-priced solo cabins (book early, they go fast). The ship offers more spacious Princess and Queen class cabins in the US$3,00-$4,000/person range.  If you really want to go all the way, it has a handful of staterooms fit for royalty, as spacious as a small house...  We're here if you have any questions.

 

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We regularly come across concerns about whether expedition ships in Galapagos may be a source of water pollution.  We go over the issue in this short article.   

What waste? 

Ships do not throw inorganic rubbish into the sea.  It is collected and disposed of when the ship returns to port at least once a week – joining the rubbish produced in towns and sent to a landfill once any recyclable materials are taken care of.  Ships don’t dump oil or fuel into the sea either – they have no interest in doing so.  Fuel is used to power the engines, and exhaust, like for all internal combustion engines, is released into the air.   Organic kitchen scraps are allowed to be disposed into the sea (at least 2km from shore), but only after having been chopped up. Such scraps quickly decompose and are the source of nutrients for marine organisms.  We focus on human wasted in this article.

It’s true that ships release human waste into the ocean as they navigate throughout the archipelago.  Whatever is flushed down the toilet (and almost all ships ask you to flush nothing but human waste down the toilet, providing a covered waste basked next to it for the paper) does end up in the sea.  Regulations require that wastewater pass through a type of industrial blender (primary treatment), turning it into more of a sludgy liquid before being released.

Is human waste a pollution concern?  We look at it in two ways:

• Waste composition: Are the actual components of human waste harmful to the Galapagos marine environment?
• Waste volume: Is the total amount of human waste released into the sea a concern?

Does the nature of human waste harm Galapagos?

Human waste is pretty much the same as waste generated by other animals such as fish, sea lions, whales and blue-footed boobies.  It’s a mix of organic matter, bacteria, high in nitrogen, fat and other organic compounds and elements.  There may be varying concentrations of different compounds between species, but at the end of the day, it’s the same kind of thing.  

Is this waste bad for the marine environment?

Biologists understand that animal waste is a rich source of nutrients.  Farmers spread manure on their fields to enrich them – and many of us do the same in our back-yard gardens.  Typically, if amounts do not exceed certain levels, animal waste is considered as a very valuable input into marine ecosystems, bringing in highly prized nutrients in waters that are generally nutrient poor.  Plankton thrives when nutrients are available - and in turn, the plankton forms the basis of a rich food chain leading right back up to whales, sea lions and sharks.   In this regard, one can conclude that human waste, by its composition, is actually beneficial to the Galapagos marine environment, like fertilizer is beneficial to a garden. 

However, it’s possible to overload an ecosystem with nutrients.  Doing so leads to eutrophication – a condition that occurs when an excess of nutrients leads to runaway algal growth. Algae proliferates, dies and is consumed by bacteria, which use up all the oxygen, turning such waters into dead zones for animals.  Eutrophication usually occurs in enclosed waters (lakes, slow moving rivers, estuaries or inlets) and rarely in the kinds of open waters one finds in Galapagos.  Still, there’s no harm in looking at the volume and concentration of human waste being released into the sea as a possible indicator of negative impacts.

Does the volume and/or concentration of human waste harm Galapagos marine ecosystems?

The best way to answer this question is to get a sense of the relative importance of human waste vs Galapagos wildlife waste that is released into the waters.   The Galapagos marine reserve is home to dozens of species that are larger than humans.  The weight of a single adult blue whale (up to 300,000 pounds, or 136,000kg), for example, is about the same as the total weight of all humans aboard expedition ships on any given day[1].  Arguably, the daily waste a blue whale generates must be in the same order of magnitude as the daily waste generated by all those people.  Don’t forget – when a blue whale has a bowel movement, it all happens in one spot, while human waste is dispersed over a vast expanse of ocean.  Yet eutrophication of Galapagos waters has never been a concern – it doesn’t happen because the relative amount of nutrients remains very much below the threshold that could lead to eutrophication. 

A whale of a bowel movement...

 

Getting back to that blue whale – it shows how just one individual of one species can produce as much waste as all the humans on board expedition ships – that alone should make it clear that human waste is a minuscule part of all the animal waste released into the Galapagos marine reserve every day.   If we just look at whales – the fact that over a dozen species of larger whales make Galapagos waters their home and they number in the thousands further illustrates the inconsequential nature of contributions made by humans.

But let’s keep on considering other sources of animal waste.

Occasionally seen in superpods containing 1,000 or more individuals, dolphins are very common in the islands.  It’s not unreasonable to conclude that tens of thousands of them spend a lot of time in the Galapagos marine reserve – and each one weighs on average over twice as much as a human.   You’ll also notice many sea lions while exploring Galapagos.   Their population has been estimated at about 50,000 – and each one is close to the size of an average human.   We’ve not even mentioned the millions of fish in the sea around Galapagos. From the tens of thousands of larger sharks, rays, tuna, to the ubiquitous smaller fish. And then there are all those seabirds.

Each one of these animals releases waste into the water.  It’s easy to conclude that the proportion of animal waste released into Galapagos waters that can be attributed to humans on expedition ships is infinitesimally small and that its incremental effect on the environment is literally no more than the proverbial drop in the ocean.   

A non-issue at sea, but not near towns

It’s clear that human waste released by people aboard expedition ships has no negative effect on Galapagos marine ecosystems.

However, there are waters in Galapagos that are demonstrably negatively affected by human waste.  These are found in the bays around which the main human settlements are built and where we find hotels, restaurants and more.  This is particularly the case in Puerto Ayora.  Here, approximately 15,000 people live around Academy Bay – and the town has no sewage system.  Used waters are flushed (in a best case scenario) into little more than holes dug into porous volcanic rock.  They easily flow into the bay.  Studies have shown the the levels of faecal coliform bacteria in the near shore at Academy Bay, along with other indicators of leaching sewage, are high enough to pose a risk to human and ecosystem health[2].  There has been talk about developing a functioning sewage treatment system in Galapagos for decades - but little has been done to date.  

So, rest assured, your time aboard your expedition ship is not contributing to the contamination of pristine Galapagos waters. 

 

[1] 65 ships, with an average capacity of about 25 guests, a 1:2 ratio of crew to guests and an average occupancy rate of about 75% means that, on any given day in Galapagos, there are a little over 1,800 guest and crew members on Galapagos expedition ships.

[2] Mateus, C.; Guerrero, C.A.; Quezada, G.; Lara, D.; Ochoa-Herrera, V. An Integrated Approach for Evaluating Water Quality between 2007–2015 in Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos Archipelago. Water 2019, 11, 937. https://doi.org/10.3390/w11050937

 

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos:  We are TripAdvisor's Destination Expert

Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

Okavango / Kalahari / Vic Falls: Our trip was designed and is led by Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic's "Champion of the Okavango"

Provence Discovery:  14 guests - 15 days - 3 luxury villas.  September 2025 

 Contact us for more information