We get this question a lot.  From Anchorage to Quito, or Reykjavik to Antananarivo.  What's the best flight route?  

What's the best way, from A to B?

There is no single “best” flight route that suits everyone, because so many factors come into play when booking travel. In other words, it really does depend on what matters most to you personally. Here’s a deeper look at the key factors that can influence your decision:

• Number of Connections: Some travelers prefer to have as few connections as possible. A direct flight might be the most convenient, but it’s not always available from your home airport, or it might be more expensive. For others, a longer layover may be worth it if it significantly reduces costs.

• Price: Budget is a big factor. Travelers often balance convenience with price. For example, a direct flight may be more expensive, while a flight with one or two layovers can be much cheaper.

• Departure and Arrival Times: The time you leave and arrive can make a big difference. You may want to arrive early in the day so you can make the most of your time at the destination, or you might prefer an overnight flight to save on hotel costs.

• Stopovers and Interesting Layovers: Some travelers enjoy routes that allow for a longer stop in another city, turning it into a mini trip within a trip. This can be a great way to explore a new place without buying a separate ticket.

• Airline Loyalty Programs: Frequent flyers might prioritize routes with airlines that offer them the most value in terms of points or status upgrades. If you’re a member of a loyalty program, booking with a partner airline can also bring you added perks.

• Reliability and Flexibility: Some airlines have better reputations for punctuality, fewer cancellations, or more flexible policies on changes and cancellations. This can matter a lot, especially if your plans might shift.

At CNH Tours, we typically start by using a comprehensive booking site like Expedia. These platforms show a broad range of airlines and flight options, helping us see the possibilities side-by-side. Once we identify a promising option, we double-check directly with the airline’s website for accuracy and to make sure we’re seeing the most up-to-date schedules and fares. We usually book directly with the airline—this is key—because in our experience, it’s easier to resolve issues or make changes if something goes wrong when you’re dealing directly with the airline, rather than through an intermediary booking site.

Ultimately, the best route for you will come down to balancing these factors—price, comfort, convenience, airline loyalty, and peace of mind—according to your own travel priorities.

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal 

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Our friend, Ecuadorian champion of nature conservation and member of the Charles Darwin Foundation board of directors, Alfredo Carrasco, made a recent re-discovery of a very ancient one.  

Perusing some of oldest “world maps” ever made, he came across what is almost incontrovertibly the earliest depiction of the the Galapagos Islands ever portrayed on a map.   Alfredo confidently reports that the 1551 Nautical Planisphere map (by Spanish cartographer Sancho Gutiérrez) likely shows the first graphic representation of the Galápagos Islands, depicted just under the equatorial line. Though unnamed on the map, it predates other maps and reflects early Spanish efforts to chart the Pacific’s remote territories.

See his full analysis here

Dr. Karen Ross is our Okavango-Kalahari-Cape Town-Victoria Falls tour leader.   Why Karen?  It's a good story.

We first met Karen in 2015.  CNH Tours owners Heather and Marc were living in Nairobi. Marc was working at the UN and Heather was running CNH Tours.  Marc met Karen at a meeting dealing with nature conservation issues and struck up a friendship.   We learned that Karen had spent almost her entire life in Africa, starting in Kenya, and moving on to Botswana, and then briefly, back to Kenya (when we met her).    

She did a Ph.D. in wildlife ecology and in Kenya, she worked under some of the most famous wildlife conservation people in the business.  She moved to Botswana 30+ years ago and led many wildlife Okavango Delta conservation projects there.  She became the "go to" person in that regard.  So much so that the government of Botswana asked her to help put together the World Heritage nomination file for the Okavango Delta - a very big job (the Okavango Delta was officially added to the World Heritage list in 2014).

Until that point, CNH Tours was only dealing with Galapagos.  Heather and I were Galapagos experts - having lived and worked there for 4 years, and I followed that up with a UN job that included, in part, the monitoring of the state of conservation of Galapagos.   We just didn't feel we had the authenticity, the first-hand knowledge, to propose other destinations - even though our returning Galapagos guests asked us for such options. 

It was when we met Karen that we thought: "Maybe we could design and offer trips to the Okavango Delta".   We approached Karen and explored the idea.  She was enthusiastic about it.  We asked her to design the "ideal Okavango-Kalahari" trip, taking into account the best time of year, a great itinerary, very comfortable "bush camps" and more.  She worked closely with a Botswana friend of hers, Glen Stephen at Liquid Giraffe, who ran a travel company there and together, they created the CNH Tours Okavango trip. 

Karen in a mokoro, in the Delta

It has been very popular since the first time we offered it (2020 --- postponed to 2022).   We now run one or two trips a year in April/May.  The trips are 14 days long and take you to Cape Town, the Kalahari, the heart of the Okavango Delta, the Okavango Panhandle and Tsodilo Hills, and to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.   The trips regularly sell out within weeks of being posted - and for good reason.  

Karen has just returned from leading our May 2025 trip - which ended 4 days ago.  She received several "thank you" notes from the participants.  We post a few below for the record.  

LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR OKAVANGO-KALAHARI TRIP

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Back in 2020, we were asked to review a Galapagos guidebook, by Josef Litt.  Based in the Czech Republic, Josef is a keen diver and very passionate about the islands. 

We were quite amazed by the book.  Having had a close look at many Galapagos books over the years, this one really stood out.  It is comprehensive, dealing not only with the usual guide-book topics, but it is also broad in scope, addressing other issues not normally addressed in guidebooks.  It gives the reader a full 360-degree exposure to what Galapagos is all about.

While it comes across as  bit hefty if you’re planning on stuffing it into a side pocket of your day pack, we highly recommend it for anyone wanting to obtain a broad understanding of what really makes these islands tick.

See our comprehensive review of the book.

Ever since we reviewed the book, we’ve come to know the author a bit better.  While he’s fully employed in a sector not related to Galapagos, he runs occasional dive trips there.  He recently informed us that his book is out of print and that he only has 30 or so copies remaining for sale. He added:  "The good news is that I can offer them signed if any would like that".  

Order your Galapagos guidebook here. 

If you're spending more than 10 days in Colombia, Peru, Bolivia or Brazil before going to Ecuador, or if you are a resident there / have any of those nationalities, read this message: 

OFFICIAL STATEMENT - YELLOW FEVER VACCINE

Ministry of Public Health - April 30, 2025 

𝗘𝗰𝘂𝗮𝗱𝗼𝗿 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗿𝗲𝗾𝘂𝗶𝗿𝗲 𝗮 𝘆𝗲𝗹𝗹𝗼𝘄 𝗳𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝘃𝗮𝗰𝗰𝗶𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗰𝗲𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗳𝗶𝗰𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝘃𝗲𝗹𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗣𝗲𝗿𝘂, 𝗖𝗼𝗹𝗼𝗺𝗯𝗶𝗮, 𝗕𝗼𝗹𝗶𝘃𝗶𝗮, 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗕𝗿𝗮𝘇𝗶𝗹 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗠𝗮𝘆 𝟭𝟮, 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟱 

To strengthen prevention and control of the circulation of the Yellow Fever virus (YF), and in compliance with the International Health Regulations (IHR 2005), Ecuador will implement the requirement to present the International Certificate of Vaccination against this disease upon arrival in the country, starting May 12, 2025.

The requirement applies to: 

- Travelers of nationality or residency in Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Brazil 

- Travelers of any nationality or residency who have stayed more than 10 days in transit or visit in those countries before entering Ecuador 

The Certificate must indicate that the vaccine was received at least 10 days before the trip. The yellow fever vaccine provides lifelong immunity. 

If you are Ecuadorian or a resident without prior vaccination history and are traveling to high-risk areas in the Ecuadorian Amazon (Sucumbíos, Orellana, Napo, Pastaza, Morona Santiago, and Zamora Chinchipe), you must be vaccinated 10 days before traveling. 

The Ecuadorian Government recommends that travelers take the necessary precautions, comply with this provision, and plan their trips in advance, ensuring that they have a valid international vaccination certificate.

MORE INFO ON YELLOW FEVER FROM CNH TOURS

Yellow fever - what is it?   It's a viral disease transmitted by infected mosquitoes, primarily Aedes aegypti. It occurs mainly in parts of Africa and South America. Symptoms range from mild—such as fever, chills, and muscle pain—to severe, including jaundice (yellowing of the skin), bleeding, organ failure, and potentially death.

The illness is serious: about 15% of infected individuals develop severe disease, and among those, the fatality rate can be as high as 30–60%. A highly effective vaccine exists and is the best prevention method for travelers and residents in at-risk regions.

Is it prevalent in Ecuador?

Yellow fever is endemic in Ecuador, particularly in lowland tropical regions such as the Amazon Basin. However, the country had not reported any cases between 2019 and 2023. In 2024, there was a single case, and as of April 2025, three confirmed cases have been reported, including one fatality in Zamora Chinchipe province near the Peruvian border . This resurgence is attributed to a decline in vaccination coverage following the COVID-19 pandemic, leaving populations more susceptible to preventable diseases .

In response, Ecuador's Ministry of Public Health has declared an epidemiological alert and implemented measures such as mandatory yellow fever vaccination for travelers entering from neighboring countries like Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Brazil, effective May 12, 2025 . Additionally, mass vaccination campaigns are underway, and mask mandates have been introduced in schools within affected provinces.)

For travelers, the CDC recommends yellow fever vaccination for those aged 9 months and older who are visiting areas below 2,300 meters (7,550 feet) in elevation, especially in provinces like Morona-Santiago, Napo, Orellana, Pastaza, Sucumbíos, and Zamora-Chinchipe . Vaccination is not required for travel to higher-altitude cities such as Quito, or for the Galápagos Islands.

If you're planning a trip to Ecuador, especially to the Amazonian regions, it's crucial to consult with a healthcare provider about yellow fever vaccination and other preventive measures.

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Tuscany/ Pantanal 

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CNH Tours is a member of the International Galapagos Tour Operators' Association.  IGTOA promotes sustainable tourism and excellence in guiding.  Member companies like ours contribute $20 for each guest booking with us to IGTOA's Conservation Grants fund.   Each year, IGTOA invites organizations in Galapagos to apply for funding.  CNH Tours participates in the review of grant applications and in the decision-making.  This year, our colleague, Kelsey Bradley, was involved in that process.

Below is a summary of the IGTOA news item it published on its website this week.  

IGTOA Announces Nearly $110,000 in Galápagos Conservation Grants for 2025

In 2025, IGTOA will award $109,200 in grants through its Galápagos Traveler Conservation Fund (GTCF) to organizations advancing conservation, education, and community initiatives in the Galápagos. Funded by IGTOA members and their clients, the GTCF supports efforts to preserve the islands for future generations.

ECOS – Youth Environmental Education, $35,000
ECOS provides immersive environmental education for Galápagos youth. This year’s grant will fund an educational program for all 31 students and 7 teachers on Floreana Island, supporting the island's major restoration effort. It will include new resources, teacher training, and field trips. In Santa Cruz, the funding will also support leadership and citizen science programs focusing on climate monitoring and endangered species, promoting youth engagement and awareness.

AGIPA – Santa Cruz Community Library, $30,000
The only public library in the Galápagos, run by AGIPA, offers critical educational resources and internet access. IGTOA’s grant will support continued operations, programming, and maintenance, benefiting thousands of residents through literacy, conservation, and vocational workshops.

Naveducando – “Oceanic Classroom” for Youth, $20,000
Many Galápagos children have limited access to the surrounding marine reserve. Naveducando’s sailing program offers students hands-on experiences with coastal ecosystems. This year’s funding will allow 150 seventh-grade students from San Cristóbal Canton to participate in this transformative program.

Charles Darwin Foundation – Green Sea Turtle Research, $15,000
The Galápagos hosts key nesting sites for endangered East Pacific green turtles. IGTOA’s support helps the CDF continue its long-term monitoring, especially during climate events like La Niña. The data collected will guide conservation strategies to protect turtle populations affected by rising temperatures and changing weather patterns.

FIRMAG – Radio and Community Programs, $9,200
FIRMAG's #GalapagosMiResponsabilidad radio program raises awareness of environmental and social issues. The grant will fund operating costs and youth workshops in radio production and journalism, promoting community engagement and environmental stewardship.

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Dr. Keith Alverson (CNH Tour's own ad-hoc advisor on all things related to climate change, snow, glaciers and icebergs) will be at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris this week to moderate discussions during the course of an international"Brainstorming Session" to define priorities for a decade of action in cryospheric sciences.  

Keith poses for a selfie with a bit of the cryosphere in the background (Villarrica Volcano, Chile)

What is the cryosphere? The cryosphere is an umbrella term for those portions of Earth's surface where water is in solid form. This includes sea ice, ice on lakes or rivers, snow, glaciers, ice caps, ice sheets and frozen ground (which includes permafrost). 

In August 2024, the United Nations General Assembly adopted the resolution to declare the period from 2025 to 2034 as the "Decade of Action for Cryospheric Sciences". Championed by the Republic of France and the Republic of Tajikistan, and supported by a coalition of nations, this initiative underscores the urgent need for international scientific collaboration to mitigate the far-reaching effects of cryospheric changes on ecosystems, water security, and global climate stability.

A dedicated brainstorming session during the March 2025 celebrations in Paris will convene policymakers, scientists, and civil society to outline the priorities for the Decade of Action. This session aims to identify innovative research approaches, foster cross-border partnerships, and strengthen the integration of cryospheric science into global climate adaptation strategies. With UNESCO serving as the coordinating agency, the session will highlight the critical role of glaciers and the cryosphere in regulating freshwater resources.

This decade-long initiative builds on the momentum created by the International Year of Glaciers' Preservation and will serve as a launchpad for the Decade of Action for Cryospheric Sciences. It will lay the groundwork by fostering global cooperation on research, monitoring, and data-sharing to better predict the consequences of cryospheric changes on water resources, sea levels, and ecosystems. 

WHAT'S IN IT FOR CNH TOURS?
CNH Tours takes a keen interest in these international processes given that many of our guests are drawn by the wonders of polar ecosystems and land/icescapes.  Climate change is being felt particuarly strongly in the Arctic - leading to very measurable effects on the cryosphere there, and therefore, on ecosystems and on communities living there.    

We've asked Keith to keep in mind how this roadmap may relate to tourism and we hope he'll be able to report back to us later next week.  

13-28 October 2026

3 rural hotels / 16 days / 14 guests

Following up on our very popular "Provence Discovery" trip (taking place this Sept/Oct 2025), we've transposed our slow, versatile approach to travel to neighbouring Tuscany.

You'll join a small group (14 guests) adventure and experience three contrasting areas of this fabled Italian region. With 5 nights in three comfortable rural hotels, for a total of 15 nights/16 days, our retreat takes you to explore a different Tuscany, away from the crowds to reconnect with the countryside and the most authentic traditions of the region. 

Each day, we arrange problem-free explorations in the region surrounding each villa, whether it's about interacting with local hosts, enjoying gentle hikes, exploring local markets, partaking in culinary experiences and wine tasting, or visiting charming villages and historic sites.

Our slow-paced itinerary allows enough free time to sense the spirit of each corner of Tuscany, exploring at your own pace and taking home long-lasting memories of the region's natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.

More information and booking.

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal / Tuscany

In this week's edition of The Economist, there's a good piece highlighting the work of a woman in Ecuador who risks her life daily in the pursuit of jusice - that's Diana Salazar, the country's attorney general.  

Diana Salazar (in The Economist)

Once oddly (and thankfully) left out of the drug trade induced violence more commonly associated with countries such as Colombia, Honduras and Mexico, Ecuador has in recent years been catching up if not surpassing its neighbours when it comes to drug cartel violence. 

While Galapagos is pretty much isolated from this violence, the waters around the archipelago are often used by ships to transport drugs - and given the extra degree of vigilance around the marine reserve (and also in part from the American coast guard), shipments of drugs are occasionally intercepted there. 

The fact is, a great number of people consume illegal drugs and it has been next to impossible stopping them.  Some are hooked and desperate, others do it for recreational purposes.  But every person who buys illegal drugs has blood on their hands - as they support a multi-billion dollar industry bent on undermining justice with the use of violence, extortion and bribery in countries like Ecuador. 

Diana Salazar is engaged in a very dangerous pursuit.  We wish her full succeess in her efforts. 

Read the article here.  

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

If you're embarking on one of our 11-day "Natural History Tours" - there's a good chance your guide will be Daniel Angermeyer Fitter.  

Not only is Daniel an accomplished Galapagos Naturalist Guide, he's also an accomplished individual.  He has co-authored books on Galapagos, has been an on-again / off-again professional photographer, and he's also a community leader.   

But Daniel also has an amazing family history. 

Sensing the gathering storm clouds and unwilling to go along with the growing authoritarian nature of his homeland, Daniel's grandfather, Johannes Angermeyer, was one of 5 sons (Heinrich, Gus, Carl, Johannes and Fritz) who left Germany in 1935.  They acquired a sailboat with Galapagos as their destination.  At the time, Galapagos had received a lot of attention in the German press, portrayed as "the last paradise".  It's easy to understand how adventurous but disillusioned young men would choose it as a destination for a new life.

It was a long journey there, and following a near shipwreck off the SW coast of England, the boys arrived more than a year later.  Conditions were much harsher than imagined of course.  Very little fresh water, no electricity, rocky volcanic soils had discouraged many who came before them.  But not the Angermeyers.  Their doggedness and unbridled enthusiasm served them well.  Today, many of their descendants, including your guide Daniel, still live in the islands.  

Their story is told in a lovely book (My Father's Island) written by Johanna Angermeyer, the daughter of one of the brothers, and our naturalist guide's aunt.  She tells the dramatic life story of her mother Emma - emigrating to Nebraska from Russia as a young girl.  Emma meets a dashing Ecuadorian pilot training there, forever changing her destiny.  Johanna ends up spending summers in Galapagos in the late 1960's, recounting her adventures - be they out on goat hunting expeditions with her uncles, encountering eccentric folks in the highlands, being invited aboard yachts of wealthy visitors...  He older sister Mary (Daniel's mother) figures prominently.

It's part diary, part drama, part history and a very pleasant read - giving you a glimpse of what life was like in Galapagos in the 1950's and 1960's - when the only way to reach the islands was by ship.  

Angermeyer family tree, from Johanna Angermeyer's book "My Father's Island". 

First published in 1989

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Galapagos / Arctic & Antarctica / Okavango-Kalahari / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

One of the more charismatic endemic species in Galapgos is the Galapgos Penguin, and one of the most memorable experiences in Galapagos is to be snorkeling among of group of busy penguins.  Among the smallest of the world's 18 penguin species, the Galpagos Penguin is also the only one whose range extends into the northern hemisphere (just).  

Their numbers have always, and will always be small, simply because their range is small - they exist only among the Galpagos islands. For this reason, their continued survival as a species is inherently subject to disturbances.  A bout of bird flu combined with a harsh El Niño could reduce their numbers dramatically, for example. 

The Charles Darwin Research Station in cooperation with the Galapagos National Park Service carry out penguin population censuses as regularly as they can (which means: When they can find the funding).  In an effort to improve the penguins' efforts at keeping stable population numbers, the Station and Park build artificial nesting sites for them along their usual breeding ranges (mostly the western shores of the archipelago).  

We've assembled some information below on Galapagos Penguin population dynamics.  You'll be well-prepared to ask pointed questions to your naturalist guide after going over that information!

The population dynamics of Galápagos penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus) are highly influenced by environmental variability, food availability, and predation. Here are some key factors that shape their population trends:

Population Size & Distribution

• Galápagos penguins are one of the rarest penguin species, with an estimated population of around 1,500 to 2,000 individuals.
• They are mostly found on Isabela and Fernandina Islands, with smaller populations on Santiago, Floreana, and Bartolomé.
• They are the only penguin species that lives north of the equator.

Factors Influencing Population Dynamics

1. Climate Variability: El Niño & La Niña

   • El Niño events cause warm ocean temperatures, reducing upwelling and decreasing fish availability. This leads to high mortality and reduced breeding.
   • La Niña events bring cooler waters, increasing food supply and improving breeding success.
   • Severe El Niño events (e.g., 1982–83 and 1997–98) have caused population crashes of 50% or more.

2. Food Availability

   • Galápagos penguins primarily feed on small fish like anchovies, sardines, and mullet.
   • Productivity of the Cromwell Current, which brings nutrient-rich waters, is crucial for their survival.
   • If food is scarce, they delay or skip breeding.

3. Reproductive Strategies

   • They breed opportunistically depending on food abundance, not seasonally.
   • Clutch size: Typically two eggs, but survival rates depend on food conditions.
   • Long-term pairs help improve reproductive success.

4. Predation & Human Impact

   • Natural predators: Galápagos hawks, owls (on land); sharks and sea lions (in water).
   • Invasive species: Feral cats, rats, and dogs prey on eggs and chicks.
   • Human threats: Potential oil spills, fishing nets, and habitat disturbance.

5. Conservation Efforts

   • The species is classified as Endangered (EN) by the IUCN.
   • Conservation efforts focus on marine protected areas, nesting site restoration, and invasive species control.
   • Artificial nest sites have been built to increase reproductive success.

Long-Term Trends

• The population has fluctuated significantly over decades due to climate shifts.
• After the 1997–98 El Niño, numbers dropped below 1,000 but recovered with La Niña conditions.
• In recent years, conservation efforts and favorable ocean conditions have led to gradual recovery, but the species remains vulnerable to climate change.

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That's the amount of carbon emissions that has been saved from being released into the atmosphere due to our trips from July to December 2024 - thanks to CNH Tours' participation in the Gold Standard carbon emissions retirement program.  

The Gold Standard is rated as among the top best carbon offset programs, according to CarbonCredits - an agency that reports on carbon, clean energy, emission reduction and climate related business practices.

CNH Tours began purchasing carbon offsets in January 2022 and we publish our certificate every 6 months.  We've calculated the amount of C02 emitted by our trips and have been purchasing the equivalent offsets.  For Galapagos, this amounts to the CO2 emitted by the domestic flight to the islands and to those emitted by the expedition cruise ship.

For a detailed description on carbon offsets - what they are, how they work, how they relate to climate change mitigation, why they're important, see our very own Carbon Offsets 101 Illustrated Guide

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It's never a bad idea to try to understand the headspace of the people you'll be seeing when you go on a trip. Besides being a learning experience, it gives you more context for what you might be observing around you and the potential for greater empathy with those who'll be working to make yours a wonderful trip. On 9 February, Ecuadorians go to the polls to elect a presidend and the members of their national legislative assembly.  

Ecuadorians have had a tumultuous time with their presidents for as long as CNH Tours has been paying attention (since the mid 1990's). It's very rare that a president finishes his full term, either being chased out of the country, resign under threat of impeachment or simply physically run out of office.  At one point in the early 2000's, Ecuador was run by a triumviate - three presidents at the same time..  

What follows is from the Financial Post dated 2 January. 

Ecuadorian President Daniel Noboa arrives at Carondelet Palace in Quito, Ecuador, on Oct. 17, 2023. (Editor's Note: CNH Tours founder Marc Patry once met with a previous president of Ecuador (Lucio Gutierrez) in Carondelet Palace on UNESCO business - during the course of the meeting, crowds could be heard chanting outside "Out with Lucio!" - three days later, Gutierrez had fled the country). 

President Daniel Noboa hopes to secure his first full term in Ecuador’s general election on Feb. 9. All 151 seats in the country’s National Assembly are also up for grabs.

The U.S.-educated son of Ecuador’s wealthiest man, Noboa came to office via a two-round snap election held in August and October 2023. The vote followed the resignation of former President Guillermo Lasso, who dissolved the legislature to avoid being impeached. Noboa was elected to finish Lasso’s term, which began in 2021.

Like Lasso, Noboa is conservative, and he has focused his presidency on combating violent crime. Ecuador has experienced rising insecurity and homicide rates as it has become a hot spot for cocaine trafficking in recent years. While on the campaign trail in 2023, one of Noboa’s opponents was assassinated; Ecuador’s attorney general later linked the killing to criminal gangs.

After a spate of attacks last January, Noboa declared Ecuador to be in an “internal armed conflict,” instituting a state of emergency and deploying troops to stabilize the country. Months later, voters approved a Noboa-backed referendum to tighten security measures. Despite the broad public support, legal experts and human rights activists worry that the measure could endanger due process and the rule of law.

Ecuador is also wrestling with post-pandemic economic devastation. With so much money devoted to fighting gangs, the government has even fewer resources to address its deficit. Noboa has courted the United States, the International Monetary Fund, and others for help. Last year, he secured more than $93 million in assistance from Washington, to be delivered over five years.

What’s more, Noboa announced that he would propose a constitutional amendment to reauthorize the presence of foreign military bases on Ecuadorian soil. Former Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa disallowed such bases in 2008, forcing the United States to shutter an outpost on Ecuador’s Pacific coast.

Correa, accused of corruption by the U.S. government, is currently living in exile in Belgium, but he still wields influence over Ecuador’s politics. Luisa González, who served in Correa’s government from 2007 to 2017 and lost to Noboa in 2023, plans to run for president again this year.

Also on the ballot is Leonidas Iza, who heads Ecuador’s powerful Indigenous confederation. Controversial businessman Jan Topić is in the mix, too.

Noboa’s approval rating has fallen in recent months, but polls still show him on top ahead of next month’s election. He is trailed by González, Topić, and Iza. If no candidate wins at least 40 percent of the vote with at least a 10-point lead in the first round, the top two candidates will proceed to a runoff on April 13. Legislators are elected via a mixed-method proportional system.

So often when recalling the exploits of great scientists, explorers and politicians, those who enabled them are relegated to the broom closet of history.   Darwin is no exception.  We rarely hear about his right-hand man on the Beagle, and for a few years after Darwin’s return to England.   In his book, “The Voyage of the Beagle”, Darwin never mentions Syms Covington, yet he was by his side for over 5 years.   Only later in life Did Darwin express gratitude toward Covington in his correspondence and acknowledged the importance of his contributions in his later writings.

Here’s a short story of Covington’s life. 

Early Life and Career
Syms Covington was born in Bedfordshire, England, in 1816. Little is known about his early years, but he joined the British Royal Navy at a young age, seeking adventure and opportunity. By his teens, Covington had become a sailor aboard the HMS Beagle, where he initially served as a cabin boy and ship's fiddler. His musical abilities were valued on the ship, as fiddling provided entertainment during long voyages.

The Voyage of the HMS Beagle
In 1831, the HMS Beagle embarked on its second voyage, captained by Robert FitzRoy. Aboard this expedition was the young naturalist Charles Darwin, who had been invited to join the journey to study geology, natural history, and the environment of the regions they explored. Covington, though initially part of the general crew, soon became Darwin’s personal servant and assistant.

As Darwin’s assistant, Covington played a crucial role in the success of the expedition. His duties included helping Darwin collect, prepare, and preserve specimens of plants, animals, and fossils. He often used his skills as a marksman to hunt birds and mammals, which Darwin studied in detail. Covington’s keen eye and steady hand made him an indispensable part of the scientific team. He was also responsible for organizing and labeling specimens, ensuring they were properly stored for later analysis.

Contributions to Darwin’s Work
During the Beagle voyage, which lasted from 1831 to 1836, Darwin relied heavily on Covington’s practical skills. Covington’s assistance in collecting specimens was vital, especially in challenging environments such as the Galápagos Islands and South America. His meticulous work enabled Darwin to focus on his observations and theories, laying the groundwork for his later development of the theory of evolution by natural selection.

One notable instance of Covington’s contribution was his role in preparing finches collected from the Galápagos Islands. These specimens would later become central to Darwin’s insights into adaptive radiation and the diversity of species.

Life After the Beagle
Following the Beagle voyage, Covington continued to work for Darwin in England, assisting him in cataloging and organizing the extensive collection of specimens gathered during their travels. However, after some time, Covington sought a new life and emigrated to Australia in 1839. There, he settled in Pambula, New South Wales, and became a postmaster. He married and raised a family, leading a quieter life far removed from his adventurous seafaring years.

Despite the distance, Covington maintained occasional correspondence with Darwin. These letters reveal Darwin’s appreciation for Covington’s contributions to his work, as well as a mutual respect between the two men.

Legacy
Syms Covington’s life is a testament to the unsung heroes of scientific discovery. Though not a scientist himself, his labor and dedication provided essential support for Darwin’s groundbreaking research. Covington’s name appears in Darwin’s correspondence and acknowledgments, underscoring his role in one of the most important scientific voyages of the 19th century.

Covington passed away in 1861, having lived a life that bridged two worlds: the high seas of exploration and the quietude of a small Australian town. His story serves as a reminder of the collaborative efforts behind scientific progress, where even the smallest contributions can leave a lasting impact on history.

FURTHER READING

Covington’s life was recounted in this lovely, fictionalized story “Mr. Darwin’s Shooter” by Roger McDonald (1998). In this richly detailed novel, Roger McDonald shines a light on a man forgotten by history, capturing the breathtaking excitement of the historic voyage of the Beagle and brilliantly illuminating the scientific, religious, and social controversies that exploded around Darwin's watershed theories.

You'll get a whole lot more out of you short stay in Galapagos if you prepare your mind in advance... here's an eclectic collection of books (and movies) we've curated for you. From lateral gene transfers to ménage-à-trois on Floreana Island... You should find something to pique your interests...

The list is divided into a few sections:

• GUIDEBOOKS / NATURAL HISTORY
• CONSERVATION / EVOLUTIONARY BIOLOGY / TAXONOMY
• HUMAN HISTORY / HISTORICAL FICTION
• FILMS

Have a look and if there's a book / film that you think belongs on the list, please let us know.  

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By Nicolás Larenas / January 2, 2025

The Quito International Airport ends 2024 with more than 5.3 million passengers transported, which implies a 1% drop compared to 2023.

The management balance of the Mariscal Sucre International Airport reflects a stable behavior of passenger traffic, practically in line with the traffic registered in 2023, while, in air cargo, the operation shows sustained growth figures that keep the Quito airport as one of the most important in the Latin American and Caribbean region.

2024 CLOSED STABLE DESPITE THE DEPARTURE OF AIRLINES

Passenger traffic in 2024 exceeded 5.3 million passengers, with a slight drop compared to 2023 of 1%. Throughout the year, 16 passenger airlines connected Quito with 19 direct international destinations and 8 domestic destinations.

A new low-cost airline entered the Ecuadorian market serving the route between Quito and Lima, allowing more connections from the Peruvian capital to other destinations in the southern cone. In addition, a new destination was added to the Quito airport's offer: Punta Cana, in the Dominican Republic.

During 2024, four airlines stopped operating due to external factors, such as Aeroméxico - due to the diplomatic crisis with Mexico - while JetBlue, Wingo and Viva Aerobus left the market due to strategic issues and fleet limitations.

"The performance that the Quito airport has achieved in 2024, a very difficult year for the country due to all the crises we had to overcome, has been very positive thanks to the commitment of all the actors that make up the Mariscal Sucre community. We had to concentrate our efforts on maintaining passenger traffic and developing air cargo, which still has significant growth potential," said Ramón Miró, president and general director of Corporación Quiport.

AIR CARGO GROWS FOR THE FOURTH CONSECUTIVE YEAR

In air cargo, Quito airport maintained the growth trend recorded since 2021. 354 thousand metric tons of export, import and national cargo were transported in 2024, exceeding the 340 thousand tons of 2023. Export cargo by air from Quito had a great performance, close to 300 thousand metric tons left the Mariscal Sucre airport. 92% corresponds to flowers, the main export product by air. 15 cargo airlines operated at Quito airport in 2024.

This growing volume of cargo did not go unnoticed in the industry. The International Council of Airports of Latin America and the Caribbean (ACI-LAC) published a report on the ranking of the main cargo airports in the region in which Quito airport is ranked fifth, making Quito one of the main air cargo hubs in Latin America and the Caribbean.

EXPANSION OF THE AIRPORT RESUMES 

The main milestone of Quiport's management in 2024 was the resumption of the expansion work at the Mariscal Sucre airport, which includes 17,000 m2 on four levels of the passenger terminal and 35,000 m2 of a platform for aircraft parking and taxiways, thanks to an investment of US$ 74.2 million, Quiport Corporation's own resources.

The work will be completed in December 2025 and will allow the airport's capacity to increase from 5 million passengers to 7 million passengers per year, which will impact employment and promote tourism.

One of Quiport's main commitments is to maintain the infrastructure in optimal conditions that guarantee the safety and efficiency of operations. In 2024, major preventive maintenance work was carried out on the airport's runway and taxiways to replace the asphalt layer.

In March, the national VIP lounge expansion work began, doubling its useful area and capacity, giving it a local identity through design elements that recall the architecture that characterizes the city and maintaining the same service quality standards for passengers who use this space.

NOTE FROM CNH TOURS:

Having passed through many dozens of airports around the world, we can attest to the Quito airport as being one of the better well-designed and very functional places to catch a flight.   It helps that it's relatively small. The national departures area (for your flight to Galapagos) is spacious and bright, with large floor to ceiling windows and a decent (if pricey) restaurant - a good place for a more substantial breakfast on your way to the islands.   Immigration and customs can be a bit long... more so as international flights often arrive rather late at night and disembarking passengers are already tired after a long flight.  

The airport is located quite a distance from the city though. Plan for a 40 minute drive when traffic is light.   

Our Okavango-Kalahari colleague and tour leader, Dr. Karen Ross attended the UK premiere of "A Life Among Elephants" last week, at the Royal Geographical Society's headquarters in London.  

The film celebrates the work of "Save the Elephants" founder, Dr. Ian Douglas-Hamilton and his nearly 60-year extraordinary mission to protect wild African elephants.  

Karen Ross, worked closely with him in her formative years when she was carrying out her post-graduate research.   

Karen reported back to us on the event:

"In late November the UK's premiere of 'A Life Among Elephants' was held  at the Royal Geographic Society in London to support the protection of elephants and a fundraiser for the charity Save the Elephants. It was an honour to be part of this special event to celebrate Dr Iain Douglas-Hamilton's 60 year mission to protect wild African elephants. It was also a step back in time to the late 1970's and early 1980's when I worked with Iain as he valiantly took on the horrific ivory poaching scourge that was decimating elephants across Africa, and Kenya and Tanzania in particular. Dr. Douglas Hamilton's fight for the protection of elephants culminated in the world's first "ivory burn" in 1989 when the President of Kenya symbolically set light to a 12 ton stockpile of ivory seized during the previous decade of poaching. It was to send a message, not only about the destruction of Kenya's elephants, but also to the causal effect of the rocketing ivory trade, and a desperate measure to take all ivory out of circulation. Less than two months later, on October 17th 1989, the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) enforced a worldwide ban on the sale of ivory. Immediately elephant poaching was reduced, and elephant numbers began to stabilise in East Africa. 

Botswana became a safe haven for elephants during this time, and now has the largest population of elephants in the world, numbering over 132,000 elephants and more than half of all of Africa's herd."

See the movie trailer here. 

CNH Tours owner, Marc Patry, had the chance to meet Ian on a couple of occasions when he was working for the UN in Nairobi - "He certainly left an I've-seen-it-all kind of impression on me" he reports. 

 Ivory burn in Kenya: The only way to be sure that confiscated ivory doesn't make it into the ivory trade

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CNH Tours helps approximately 500 a year plan their ideal Galapagos expedition cruise – and almost all these people will spend some time in Quito on their way to Galapagos.  Most spend 2 nights in the city, and many add on longer mainland extensions there.  Most are in their 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.   

Since 1999, when we first started helping people organize their Galapagos expeditions, we have had only one situation when a guest (a 73 year-old woman) had fairly serious health issues that could have been exacerbated by the altitude – though no definitive conclusions were reached in that regard.  

Based on our experience, there are fair chances you’ll feel some of the symptoms of altitude sickness, but these will be minor.  Overall, you should not be terribly concerned about being significantly affected by altitude sickness – but it never hurts to understand what the risks are. 

Quito sits at about 2,850 meters or 9,350 feet above sea level.  For the sake of comparison, the air pressure inside your plane on the way to Quito is equivalent to an altitude of roughly 1,800 to 2,400 meters (about 6,000 to 8,000 feet) above sea level.  According to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, at this altitude, the risk of feeling mild symptoms is moderately high, though the risk of serious complications is relatively low if precautions are taken.

Symptoms of mild altitude sickness are usually manageable and can include:

• Headaches
• Light-headedness or dizziness
• Nausea or loss of appetite
• Shortness of breath, especially during physical activity
• Trouble sleeping

These symptoms generally subside within 24-48 hours as the body begins to acclimate. However, if symptoms worsen, it’s essential to take them seriously, as they can indicate more severe forms of altitude sickness.

Mitigating Measures

• Stay Hydrated: Higher altitude air is dryer.  Dehydration can worsen symptoms.
• Avoid Alcohol and Sleeping Pills: These can interfere with acclimatization.
• Monitor Symptoms Closely: Be attentive to any unusual symptoms and seek medical attention if symptoms worsen.

Statistical Risks and Age-Related Factors

Studies indicate that roughly 30-40% of people traveling from low altitudes to elevations between 2,500 and 3,000 meters (8,200 and 9,800 feet) experience some form of altitude sickness, with most cases being mild to moderate. Older adults do not necessarily have a higher susceptibility to altitude sickness solely due to age; instead, underlying health conditions and reduced physiological resilience can increase the likelihood of complications.

Serious Altitude Sickness: These conditions are very rare at elevations below 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) with a risk of less than 1%. However, older adults with underlying heart or lung conditions may have an elevated risk of experiencing more pronounced symptoms due to decreased oxygen levels.

Considerations for Older Adults

Age can indirectly increase altitude sickness risks due to several factors, such as lower lung function, cardiovascular challenges, or the presence of chronic conditions (e.g., hypertension, respiratory disease). Studies have shown that older adults may experience more shortness of breath and fatigue, but with proper acclimatization strategies, most older travelers can avoid severe altitude sickness.  We recommend that you consult with a doctor if you are managing conditions like heart disease or respiratory illness.

How about the Quito Cable Car to Cruz Loma, on Pichincha Volcano?

The Quito cable car takes you to the Cruz Loma lookout on Pichincha volcano.  It is one of the highest aerial lifts in the world, rising from 3,117 m (10,226 ft) to 3,945 m (12,943 ft).  If you take the approximately half-mile / 1km trail to the famous swings, you’ll be adding another 45 m / 145 ft in altitude. At this level, you will most likely feel symptoms of altitude sickness, particularly if you are exerting yourself (going up a flight of stairs, walking along a trail).  You may feel your heart rate accelerate as it tries to compensate for the lower oxygen levels at this altitude.  If you’re planning to enjoy this spectacular view, we recommend you just walk slowly, and take a break every minute or two to catch your breath.  There’s no rush!

Chris (66 years old) swings from the clouds on the upper slopes of Pichincha volcano (apx. 13,100 feet / 4,000 m) 

Conclusion

For healthy adults of any age, the risk of severe altitude sickness in Quito is low, though mild symptoms are common. With a few precautions, the vast majority of visitors can safely enjoy Quito without major concerns.

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Over the past several months, mainland Ecuador (not Galapagos) has been dealing with rolling blackouts of various durations.   An unusually long dry spell has left the country’s hydro-electric reservoirs severely depleted, forcing the authorities to ration out electricity. 

In normal circumstances, Ecuador produces 80% of its electricity needs through renewable sources, positioning the country as a leader in clean energy in Latin America. But when the rains fail, things can get difficult. 

No rain - no electricity at the Paute dam

Things have become more difficult recently, with citizens having to do without electricity for up to 14 hours / day.

Mercedes, our Quito -based colleague in charge of helping our guests plan their mainland extensions writes: “for this week, in my house the power outages is from 7:00 to 15:00 and from 18:00 to 24:00”.

Mercedes goes on to report on how this affects daily life:

“This problem is affecting the economy severely. Big companies have their power plants, but small businesses don´t. They can have small generators but they will not be enough for so many hours. 

I have a very small generator that help to have internet for a couple hours, but nothing more.  And at the moment, there are no generators available. You can buy one, but now they are over the $1000 and you have to wait a couple weeks to get one.

Regarding our guests, I don’t think this will affect them. The hotel has a big generator that supplies the entire hotel, both rooms, hot water, WIFI and social areas. The airport is working normally, as is the cable car. Most restaurants have also their own generator.  Maybe the traffic could be a little complicated, as there are no traffic lights. In this case, during the full day Quito, it could take some more time to go for example to the cable car or return to the historic center.

The driver to and from the airport will not be affected as we use the highways.  All the lodges as Mashpi, Bellavista, have their own generators as well. 

What is affected is the cell phone use. Sometimes, it’s difficult to have signal duing the power outage. 

Since yesterday it has rained again where the hydroelectric dams are located. I hope it continues raining!  It seems that with the rain of these days, the power outages hours will be reduced. Hopefully. Until the government announced something different, we continue with the power outages between 10 to 14 hours daily."

Our other Quito-based colleague (Tannya, who helps match ships/itineraries/dates with guest requirements) reports:

“As in Quito and all cities in the country, some stores in the historic center have a generator for a few hours, in effect, it causes noise and pollution, but they try to get ahead with their activities. In the case of hotels and big restaurants, they have their generators for the whole day.  The Tour Bus is offering the visits regularly.  The power outage in Quito,as all cities, varies weekly by sector. This week the power outage in my area is from 6 to 11AM and 3 to 11PM.”

Based on the reports we have from our colleagues, it seems that our guests can still enjoy a relatively problem free visit to mainland Ecuador.

In Galapagos, power is generated mainly by oil-fired electrical generators, augmented by some aeolian generators. 

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