"Is itinerary X better than itinerary Y?"

We often get asked this question from guests trying to decide which ship / itinerary to book.  Commenting on the quality of a particular itinerary over the years has led us to dig a little deeper and to identify variables that contribute to a good itinerary.  Surprisingly, it’s not much about which visitor sites the ship takes you to.  There are other more important variables we keep in mind - variables that if you pin down, then the issue of visitor sites takes care of itself. 

But before we get into that, it’s important to understand how ship itineraries are designed in the first place. 

HOW ARE ITINERARIES MANAGED?

In Galapagos, as per National Park rules, all ships must follow a 14-night / 15-day circuit during which time they may not stop at a particular visitor site more than once (there are a few exceptions).  These itineraries may be divided into shorter segments.   Typically, segments consist of 2 x 7-night itineraries, or a combination of shorter ones.  Itineraries may be proposed by a ship, but the Galapagos National Park Service has the final say. 

Every ship’s itinerary is clearly described in a document emitted by the park (the “patente”).  A ship must adhere to the itinerary defined therein.   Using a few small patrol boats, the Park will occasionally carry out monitoring trips at sea to be sure each expedition cruise ship is adhering to its itinerary.  It’s also not unusual for ships to report on each other if one is  not respecting its patente. 

A patente will indicate which visitor sites a ship can go to, in what order, and at what times of the day.  Typically, the patente will give windows for visitation periods (for example, “from 6-8AM” or “from 8-10AM) and indicate which types of activities are permitted there (hiking, snorkeling, zodiac rides, kayaking/paddleboarding).  

This system has helped ensure the quality of the visitor experience.  No visitor site ends up being overloaded with people.   Between applying this system and also capping the capacity of the Galapagos expedition ship fleet (both in ship numbers and ship size), the Galapagos National Park Directorate has received widespread recognition around the world for its excellent expedition-ship visitor management work. 

WHAT FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO A SUPERIOR ITINERARY?

While most ships will touch upon a common set of visitor sites over the course of their 15 circuits (with some variation and exceptions), how they do it will vary from ship to ship.   The elements we consider in making a judgement on an itinerary include:

UNINTERRUPTED: As noted, all ships must follow a 15-day circuit, but no ship actually runs a full 15-day uninterrupted itinerary.  They will all divide the 15 days into shorter segments.  When ship-based tourism first started, uninterrupted itineraries typically consisted of 7 nights / 8 days on board.  Combining two such segments takes the ship through its full 15 day circuit.    But over time, in response to what ships perceived as market demand, more and more ships further segmented their circuits, offering shorter and shorter itineraries.  It’s now possible to embark on a 2-night / 3-day cruise (very few ships offer it – but it’s possible).   More common are ship segments consisting of 4, 5 and 6 days.  In these cases, a 15-day circuit can be divided into two 6-day and one 5-day segments, for example.

Regardless of the itinerary length you choose, we believe that it’s better to ensure it’s uninterrupted.  That means that while you’ll be on board, your ship will not be dropping off / picking up guests who are on the ship for shorter itinerary segments. An interrupted itinerary  has several drawbacks: 

1. The ship must go back to a port to drop off / pick up guests, preventing it from venturing off to distant reaches of the archipelago.
2. During the pick-up and drop-off times, the visitor experience for those not disembarking can be second rate – with the possibility of wasted time as you wait, or are being taken to second rate visitor sites near the port.
3. With a new group of guests on board (and possibly new naturalist guides), you will find the naturalist guides repeating the talks they gave you already. You’ll be going through another safety drill as well. 
4. A change in guests half-way through your trip, and possibly a change in naturalist guides and crew will make it harder for you to develop a sense of shared experience and camaraderie with your fellow travellers (which is often a significant part of the experience).

RECOMMENDATION:  Look for uninterrupted itineraries if possible.  Avoid choosing an itinerary that is a composite of shorter segments.

AVERAGE DISTANCE TRAVELLED / VISITOR SITE:  Some ship itineraries follow a logical progression through the archipelago, while other ships follow circuitous routes.   Following a poorly designed itinerary will have you spending more time underway, and it may put the captain under a certain amount of pressure to weigh anchor and get going to the next visitor site, which may require several hours of navigation.  This might mean that your naturalist guides will also be under pressure to have you back on board, possibly cutting short your time at a visitor site. 

Below, we show examples of two contrasting 8 day itineraries:

FIG. 1:  CIRCUITOUS ITINERARY

The itinerary above (a 100-passenger luxury ship) follows a circuitous route.  It navigates for over 320kms (200 miles), back and forth to the western side of the archipelago, only to stop at two visitor sites there.  It backtracks and then heads off to the easternmost visitor site in the islands.    Guests on this ship will be navigating an average of 88 kms (55 miles) / visitor site. 

FIG 2: LOGICAL ITINERARY

Above, we see an itinerary that maximizes the number of sites visited over the course of an 8 day cruise. In this case (a 14-passenger tourist superior ship), guests on board will navigate  38 kms (24 miles) per visitor site, making for a much less hurried schedule.

A smaller visitor site to kms of navigation ratio contributes to a better overall visitor experience in our minds.

NUMBER OF TOWNS VISITED: While getting to experience “town life” in Galapagos contributes to one’s overall sense of discovery, and while we think it’s absolutely worthwhile doing so (we lived in Galapagos for 4 years after all!), we do believe that you are not flying all the way to Galapagos to spend an excessive amount of time in towns. For this reason, we favour itineraries which limit time spent in urban areas.  In figure 1 above, guests on that itinerary will spending time in two towns (Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno), while those following the itinerary in figure 2 will spend time in only one town (Puerto Ayora).  Guests keen on experiencing island life are encouraged to extend their time in Galapagos post-cruise for a few days (it can be a lot more economical to visit towns based in a hotel than on a ship!), allowing them to get the land-legs back and to decompress.  We offer that option for our trips. 

NUMBER OF VISITOR SITES / DAY: At the end of the day, we assume you want to be exposed to the greatest diversity of Galapagos ecosystems and landscapes both above and below the sea while in Galapagos.  The more visitor sites you experience, the greater the depth and breadth of your overall experience.   In this regard, we consider the number of visitor sites / day for an itinerary, and the higher the number, the better the itinerary.  For example, most ships will squeeze in a final visitor site on the last day of a cruise, before having guests disembark.  But some ships don’t.  They feed you breakfast and take you to the airport.  These kinds of factors make a difference to the overall itinerary quality.  

NUMBER OF “NON-VISITOR” SITES: Some visitor sites are underwhelming.  Of course, it can be subjective.  But in our minds, the following sites do not warrant being included on an itinerary:

1. Whale watching: Some ships include this as an activity in the afternoon (with nothing else on the program) – typically as a fill-in for a long navigation. In reality, you can whale watch anytime while navigating in the archipelago.
2. Circumnavigation of an island: Typically either Daphne Major, or Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock), we do not consider sailing around an island as a quality visitor experience.  
3. Visiting a museum: There is one museum in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (a bit long in the tooth now).  While it provides interesting insights on the history of Galapagos,  frankly, you won't learn anything new if you've already gone through a decent Galapagos guide book, and missing out on a hike / snorkel or other activity in exchange for a museum visit is not recommended, in our minds.   Typically, this visitor site is included for those whose itineraries are interrupted, and the ship has to disembark/embark new guests on shorter segments of your longer cruise. 

HOW ABOUT THE RELATIVE QUALITY OF VISITOR SITES ON A PARTICULAR ITINERARY?

Not all visitor sites provide the same experience.  Some are commonly understood by visitors (at least those most active on social media) as being among the most spectacular, while others are considered rather dull.  

It’s not that simple. 

There are a variety of attributes that contribute to the quality of a visitor site.  Some of those attributes are constant (example: The otherworldly volcanic landscape), while others are seasonal (example: Nesting waved albatross). Other attributes are haphazard (example: Nesting blue footed boobies – who nest opportunistically – you never know when).  

Some sites have beautiful beaches that are much appreciated after a long and busy day – but otherwise offer little in terms of wildlife.   Is that a good visitor site?  It’s in the eye of the beholder of course.

Most 8-day itineraries that rate well against the criteria above will expose you to a similar subset of visitor sites, wildlife experiences, hiking and snorkeling options and more.  We suggest that you should not be overly concerned about which individual visitor sites you will be experiencing on each itinerary as a way to compare itineraries.  Trying to make sense of all the combinations and permutations of different visitor sites on different itineraries will take you on the road to feeling absolutely overwhelmed.

Only if you are determined to witness a particular species in the wild (for instance, the flightless cormorant or the waved albatross) should you look closely at the component visitor sites on an itinerary.  We can of course help you with that. 

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 Contact us for more information

With Tui de Roy

With our sister agency, Galapagos Travel, we will be offering what we consider to be the best photography workshops available in Galapagos.  Why?

• They are designed with the support of, and led by Tui de Roy, the pre-eminent Galapagos professional photographer. Tui grew up in Galapagos, was among the first cohort of Park- certified naturalist guides and went on to become a globally recognized award-winning wildlife photographer. Tui can ensure that you will be in the right places at the right times so that opportunities for capturing stunning and unique images are maximized. Only a photographer with a decades-long experience in exploring and photographing the archipelago can provide this kind of guidance.   

• Small group: We can host a maximum of 15 people.

• Two excellent naturalist guides, hand-picked by Tui de Roy, ensuring wonderful synergies among your expedition staff, and allowing for greater versatility during excursions. 

• Ship and itinerary having received the full endorsement of your lead photographer. 

• A comfortable catamaran in the first-class category. 

• Two days pre-cruise in a very comfortable boutique hotel, giving you a chance to recuperate from your international travel, and to get to know this World Heritage city.
  
  
• Suitable for travel partners who are not photographers: We'll have two naturalist guides and a tour leader for a highly versatile experience. 

We are offering one trip in July 2025 and two trips in May and July 2026.  Prices start at US$14,465 (shared).  If you are travelling solo but willing to share, we will help you find roommate for the ship portion of the trip.   

For more information, or if you’re ready to book, please see our website.

Tui de Roy - up for an early start to her day

Cultural & Natural Heritage Tours - Chart Your Path to Wonder

www.cnhtours.com

Galapagos / Antarctica / Okavango / Madagascar / Easter Island / Provence / Pantanal

 Contact us for more information

Cultural and Natural Heritage Tours (CNH Tours) is delighted to announce that we have been selected by Das Lokal Ottawa as one of the top 6 travel companies in the Ottawa region!

The inclusion of CNH Tours among the Best Travel Agencies in Ottawa is based on: 

• Destination Knowledge: We evaluated travel agencies based on their expertise in offering detailed insights into local culture, attractions, and amenities.
  
  
• Personalized Itinerary Planning: We considered agencies that tailor travel itineraries to individual preferences. This includes accommodation preferences, transportation options, and activity interests.
  
  
• Transparent Pricing: We examined agencies that provide clear and transparent pricing structures, including fees for their services and any additional costs.
  
  
• Customer Service: We assessed agencies based on their responsiveness, professionalism, and willingness to address customer inquiries and concerns promptly.
  
  
• Access to Exclusive Deals: We looked for agencies that offer access to exclusive deals and discounts on flights, accommodations, and activities to provide added value.
  
  
• Efficient Problem Resolution: We considered agencies with a track record of efficiently resolving issues and complications that may arise during travel. 
  
  
• Technology Integration: We evaluated agencies that use technology to streamline the booking process, enhance communication, and provide real-time updates.
  
  
• Positive Customer Reviews: We analyzed customer feedback and reviews to identify agencies with a strong reputation for delivering memorable travel experiences.
  
  
• Sustainable Tourism Practices: We prioritized agencies that support eco-friendly accommodations, minimize environmental impact, and respect local communities.
  
  
• Flexibility and Adaptability: We looked for agencies capable of offering flexible booking options and providing guidance on travel restrictions.

 Some things we think sets us apart:

1. We know Galapagos like few others and are well-positioned to provide expert advice and an unbiased opinion from point of first contact until your return home:

• Marc Patry and Heather Blenkiron lived in Galapagos from 1998 to 2002, working at the Darwin Station 
• Kelsey Bradley, our senior associate, lived in Galapagos for 8 years, also working the Darwin Station
• Daniela Aguirre, a certified Galapagos Naturalist Guide and resident of Galapagos and our on-site associate
• Heather is the Destination Expert on TripAdvisor for Galapagos.
• Marc sits on the board of the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association as an expert on World Heritage issues facing the islands (he held Galapagos in his portfolio of natural world heritage sites at the UNESCO World Heritage Center from 2003 - 2013).
• Marc sits on the General Assembly of the Charles Darwin Foundation for Galapagos. 

Few, if any tour companies have staff that are as familiar with Galapagos as CNH Tours. 

2. Trip Protection via the Travel Industry Council of Ontario:  Guests who reserve their travel through CNH Tours are protected under the terms of TICO's traveller compensation fund. 

3. Your Trip's Carbon Emissions are Offset: CNH Tours offsets the carbon generated by your national flight to Galapagos and your Galapagos cruise. Full details. 

4. Complementary Emergency Medical Evacuation Insurance:  While travelling with us, all of our guests benefit from an emergency medical evacuation insurance of up to US$ 200,000 per person in coverage plus up to US$ 5,000 per person in medical services.

5. Complimentary Assistance from our Land Extensions Specialist for any pre- or post-cruise land services in Ecuador that you desire (including more elaborate extensions to lodges and multi-day itineraries based on your parameters).

6. Supporting Local Community Conservation:  As a member of the International Galapagos Tour Operators' Association, CNH Tours contributes to the Galapagos Traveler Conservation Fund.

7. Supporting the Local Art Scene:  Impressed by the work of Magno Bennett, we commissioned 7 of his paintings and had them on display in a hotel.  This helped relaunched his painting career - something he'd put on the backburner for a decade.  His art adorns this website. 

8. Supporting Local Partners in Times of Need:  With the help of many former guests, we raised $54,000 for the Samba team - the ship we use for our Active Galapagos trips.  Funds were deposited directly into their bank accounts. 

On site:

On-Site Support (24/7):  CNH Tours retains staff in Quito, Guayaquil, and Galapagos who are available to assist you 24 hours a day with any emergency that may arise. We've helped people get out of prison, deal with medical emergencies, retrieve lost passports and so much more... 

As Canada’s only Galapagos experts, we are honoured to receive this local recognition!  

Thank you Das Lokal!

We’ve been helping people plan and book their travel plans for 25 years.   While Galapagos is our focus, over the past few years, we’ve added a number of destinations for which we feel we can provide value added.   Madagascar, Provence, Antarctica, Okavango/Kalahari, Easter Island and the Pantanal are now on our palette. 

Most of the time though, tourism infrastructure is designed to accommodate people who travel in pairs.  Most particularly, hotel rooms and ship berths are priced for occupation by two people.   As a result, it is very difficult to offer trips for solo travellers at a price equivalent to, or at least very close to the per person price for people travelling in pairs. 

In our experience, this solo traveller price premium (ranging from 30% to 95% of the price of a shared accommodation rate) has held a lot of people back from travelling.  And that’s a pity.

To address this issue, CNH Tours has developed its SOLO TRAVELLER MATCHING SERVICE.   This is how it works:

• Tell us a bit about yourself (first name, where you live, age range, recent travel experience and what you liked about it, what two or three words would your best friends use to describe you).
• Tell us which trip(s) you are hoping to join.

When two people express interest in the same trip, we share one’s information with the other (without the contact details), asking them if they’d like us to make introductions.  If both say yes, we proceed and let them take it from there.

We’ve already had a couple of successful matches since we started this service. 

If you’d like to sign up – here are the links:

Galapagos solo traveller matching service

Other trips solo traveller matching service

We’re always happy to receive feedback.   Bon voyage!

No year end holiday plans yet? 

We've organized a trip that's guaranteed to have you end the year, and start the new one, with wonderful and lasting memories. 

We're running our first Natural History Workshop, from 18-30 December 2024, with an option to extend your stay in an nice boutique hotel for two extra days, allowing you to witness and enjoy the unique and colourful new year's eve celebrations as they are carried out in Ecuador, and in particular, in Galapagos.  

What is a Natural History Workshop?

• Longer, uninterrupted expedition cruise (11 days on board for this departure) - the only such cruise in Galapagos
• Two hand-picked naturalist guides, for a 8:1 ratio of guides to guests
• Full days, starting as early as dawn and into the evening (all activities optional of course)
• Slow paced - spending more time engaged with wildlife and landscapes both above and below the sea
• Curated evening presentations on various natural history topics pertinent to your trip

DATES:  18-30 December 2024, includes 2 days in Quito and 12 days on the ship.

NEW YEAR'S EVE IN GALAPAGOS OPTION:  After the cruise, spend 2 days / 2 nights in a very comfortable boutique hotel in Galapagos and enjoy the celebrations. 

PRICE:

• Standard trip (12 nights / 13 days): US$7,862 / person sharing
• With New Year's Even option (14 nights / 15 days): US$8,315 sharing.   Travelling solo?  Contact us. 

More information on our Natural History Workshops

"Out with the old, in with the new!".  Año Viejo papier maché figures are elaborately constructed in preparation for the New Year's eve celebration.  At the stroke of midnight, they all go up in flames, condemning to the ashes representaitons of unpleasant memories, events or people of the previous year. 

We've been very busy organizing all the details of this trip over the past few months.  We've finally dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's. Here are the details:

DATES: 2-16 February 2025

STARTS/ENDS:  In Santiago, Chile

BRIEF ITINERARY:

• 4 nights on the mainland:  Santiago, Casablanca valley wineries, and UNESCO World Heritage city of Valparaiso on the coast
• 5 nights on Easter Island: Guided by Easter Island native, and nationally recognized guide Josie Nahoe.  We are there during the annual Tapati festival - perfect timing!
• 4 nights on Chiloé Island:  Chile's capital of folkore and tradition, World Heritage wooden churches, curanto feasts, coastal forest hikes and penguins.

PRICE:  US$9,600 / person, shared accommodation.  Solo price:  US$12,700 (includes domestic flights).  We have a solo traveller matching service - sign up here if you're interested.

FIND ALL THE DETAILS, AND BOOKING FORM HERE

Corporación Quiport has closed air operations on Saturday, June 1st, 2024 from 02:00 to 12:00 to carry out preventive maintenance work on the airport runway. Flights are being rescheduled and the passenger terminal will remain open permanently. 

For more information, please contact your airline directly.

In addition to the closure on June 1st, air operations at Mariscal Sucre airport will be suspended on the following additional dates and times:

July 6th, 13th y 20th, September 7th, 14th and 21st from 02:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.

June 8th, 15th, 22nd and 29th from 2:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.

Preventive maintenance work is necessary to guarantee efficiency and safety in air operations at Quito airport and avoid unforeseen closures due to emergency corrective work.

The aerodrome closures have been coordinated and authorized by the General Directorate of Civil Aviation. The airlines that operate at the Quito airport were duly informed by Quiport and the DGAC through the respective NOTAM.

Personalized Service:  Meet your Match

Cultural and Natural Heritage Tours (CNH Tours) has been helping people explore options and book the Galapagos expedition cruise most suited to their travel style since 1999.  We’ve prided ourselves on offering a very personalized service and doing our best to ensure our guests enjoy a trip most tailored to their expectations.  “Unmatched Personalized Service” is our motto.[1]

Few travel companies have retained this kind of level of service consistently over the years.  More and more, we’re being prompted to use “chat-bots” instead of real people, or when trying to call a real person, we end up speaking with a revolving door of company representatives.  

This has also been the case for agencies selling Galapagos trips.  The owner-operator model has gradually given way to the leaner corporate and impersonal model where more often than not, it’s either “their way, or the highway” in terms of customization of your trip.

 

“We will not do chat-bots – you’ll always be contacting real people”

There have been some exceptions.  Most notably, “Galapagos Travel” (GT), a small California-based owner-operated company has maintained this very personalized approach to helping people consider and book their Galapagos Natural History Workshop and Photography expedition cruise since 1990.   We’ve known them for a long time.  Before CNH Tours was established, when we were living in Galapagos, we were regularly invited to have lunch with Galapagos Travel guests as “visiting scientists”.   During those years, we scuba dived with the founder, Barry Boyce.  

When we heard that the current owner of Galapagos Travel, Mark Grantham (along with his two long-time staff, Julie Lolmaugh and Debbie Brown) was planning on hanging up his mask and snorkel for good, we approached him and started exploring options for stepping into their shoes.  

A Match Made in Galapagos

We’re happy to announce that the discussions went very well and as of now, CNH Tours and Galapagos Travel will operate as two closely integrated sister agencies from Ottawa, Canada, each offering the same high quality personalized service in helping our guests consider, plan and book trips to Galapagos and to other fascinating parts of the world.

Debbie Brown (GT), Marc Patry (CNH), Mark Grantham (GT) and Julie Lolmaugh (GT) at the Galapagos Travel office. Aptos California, April 15^th 2024.

In Mark Grantham's own words:

"I can’t think of a better team to carry on our traditions and style of travel.  At the helm of CNH Tours are Marc Patry and Heather Blenkiron. They lived and worked in Galapagos from 1998 to 2002, at the Darwin Research Station and Galapagos National Park Service. Marc was even one of the guest scientists who used to come talk to our groups when we visited. More recently Marc has worked with the UN as a point man for conservation in Galapagos. In short their Galapagos knowledge and experience outweighs even our own. We are delighted to introduce our guests to Marc and Heather and the CNH team now!"

The two companies have developed similar but distinct signature trips to the Galapagos that we believe will continue to appeal to those people keen on getting the absolute most “Galapagos” out of their time in the islands – specifically:

1. CNH Tours’ “Active Galapagos” trips on the 14 passenger Samba: A standard length cruise (7 nights / 8 days) on a simple, but very professionally managed ship with top naturalist guides.  This trip is designed for people who are in decent physical condition (you don’t need to be an Olympian – but only keen on spending more time snorkeling or walking on the trails, getting into kayaks or onto paddle-boards).
2. Galapagos Travel’s “Natural History Workshop” small group trips on a locally owned and operated ship: A longer than usual 10 night/11 day cruise, or the full 14 night / 15 day version).  This trip, also fairly active, has you spending more time exploring the archipelago and has 2 naturalist guides on board.   Evening briefings will include a more in-depth presentation of natural history topics.
3. Galapagos Travel’s “Photography Tours”: An 11 or 15 day cruise with a professional Galapagos photographer on board.  While not a technical photography workshop trip per se, our photographer will be on hand to advise and to ensure that off-ship excursions are designed to maximize opportunities for unique photography. 
4. Other destinations: Both CNH Tours and Galapagos Travel have developed a range of other destinations that they have felt comfortable offering to their guests.  They are typically offered on a annual or biennial basis.  These include (but not limited to)

• Antarctica: From the Peninsula to the “Grand Tour” (Falklands, South Georgia and the Peninsula) – both CNH Tours and GT have developed an expertise here.
• Southern Africa: Cape Town, Okavango, Kalahari and Victoria Falls with Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic “Champion of the Okavango”
• Provence Discovery: 15 days, 14 guests, 3 luxury villas
• Easter Island and Chile: The Tapati festival in early February, led by Josie Nahoe, Easter Isand native
• Brazil’s Pantanal: Jaguars, tapirs, giant macaws
• Svaalbard Archipelago, Greenland, Northwest Passage and more Arctic
• Madagascar from top to bottom: A comprehensive 25-day journey.
• Melanesia, Tanzania…

Going Forward

In an effort to rationalize the two agencies’ offerings, we will be migrating CNH Tour’s “Active Galapagos” trips to Galapagos Travel, and we’ll be migrating all of Galapagos Travel’s non-Galapagos trips to Cultural and Natural Heritage Tours.  

Heather Blenkiron and Kelsey Bradley – who’ve been the front desk women for CNH Tours for many years will be moving to  Galapagos Travel – ensuring their in-depth knowledge of Galapagos continues to be put to excellent use.  Our Ecuador colleagues, Mercedes Murgueytio and Daniela Aguirre will join them.  Marc Patry (Heather’s husband and CNH Tours co-founder) will be managing CNH Tours and the variety of trips offered by that agency.   He anticipates hiring one or two people in the not-too-distant future.

Our big job in the coming months is to re-design and restructure our websites to reflect this new division of labour.  During that time, we ask for your patience and understanding as we embark on this new journey together with you, our amazing guests.  Thank you for your support over many years.  We look forward to host you and your friends/family for many years to come in Galapagos, and around the world!

[1] Another of our mottos is “we may not be big…. but we’re small!”

In the natural world, the concept of distinct species often seems straightforward. A lion is not a house cat – that’s pretty clear.  However, upon closer examination, the boundary between different species can be surprisingly blurred. The Galapagos giant tortoises provide an insight into this ambiguity. 

Inter-species cuddling

Galapagos tortoises are thought to have arrived in the islands a few million years ago, their ancestors having floated over from the mainland. They are renowned for their longevity and distinctive shell shapes, have evolved into numerous distinct populations across the islands. These populations exhibit variations in size, shape, behavior, and even diet, reflecting their adaptation to diverse island environments.  Ever since taxonomists first started describing them, a debate has raged as to whether the different giant tortoise populations were the same species, or comprised several different species. 

Take, for instance, the case of the Española and Santa Cruz tortoises. Despite residing on different islands and exhibiting notable physical differences, genetic analysis has revealed that these tortoises are remarkably similar at the molecular level. This genetic similarity challenges traditional notions of species distinction and raises intriguing questions about evolutionary relationships.

Same species?

The complexity of Galapagos tortoise taxonomy highlights the broader challenge of defining species in the natural world. While traditional classification methods rely on observable traits and geographic isolation, genetic analysis reveals a more nuanced reality. Evolutionary processes such as genetic drift, natural selection, and migration can lead to intricate patterns of divergence and convergence among populations, defying simple categorization.

At the end of the day, and most surprisingly to the taxonomically naïve, we learn that the concept of a species itself is not rigid but rather a human construct aimed at organizing the diversity of life.  At one point, the lion and the housecat had a common ancestor – but when, in their evolutionary divergence, would we have been able to definitively draw a line between the common ancestor species, and the two different species? 

ICZN members vote on new species 

It turns out that the line is drawn by the International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature (ICZN) - the global authority responsible for the scientific naming and classification of animals. It establishes and maintains rules and guidelines for the naming of animal species.  The ICZN provides a framework for resolving taxonomic disputes, clarifying rules for naming new species, and promoting stability and consistency in zoological nomenclature. Its decisions and recommendations are widely respected and followed by taxonomists, researchers, and scientific journals around the world.

Last Thursday night, I was giving a talk about our September 2025 trip to the Provence in the south of France. About 45 people were participating.  During the Q&A session that followed the talk, we got to discussing other destinations, including Antarctica.  For some reason, the discussion reverted back to Galapagos.  Most of the people on the talk were Galapagos alumni.   Jim and Joyce from Alaska, and Jill from California just jumped in to say how wonderful their trip had been.  Johanna, from British Columbia, was reassured, explaining to the others that she was scheduled to head to Galapagos next month.   

Click here to see the 90 second video.

Jim and Joyce from Alaska "One of the few trips I've done that I would do again"

Last January 8^th, a drug lord escaped from a prison in Ecuador.  His escape was soon followed by an armed gang bursting into a television studio during a live broadcast, brandishing arms (they were all arrested).  These events, particularly the live streaming of the armed gang, made international headlines.   While the government of Ecuador quickly and effectively responded, and while the violence associated with those events was brought under control within 2 days, the international community was left with a lasting impression of total insecurity in the entire country.  

As a result of that impression, many people with travel plans to Ecuador decided to cancel. At CNH Tours, almost all our booked guests with upcoming trips to Ecuador carried on with their plans.  Since the events of the 8 of January, over 100 of our guests have completed their trips to Galapagos, the Amazon, the cloud forest, through Guayaquil and beyond - and we’ve not received one report from any of them indicating any sense of insecurity. 

We responded to guests expressing concerns by sharing our experience with this kind of situation.  CNH Tours has been closely involved in Ecuador since 1998, when its owners (Marc and Heather) first moved there to take up a job at the Charles Darwin Research Station.  We started helping people with their Ecuador travel plans in 1999 (a friend’s cruise).  Over these past 25 years, we’ve witnessed many instances of disruption in the country, including:

• Dollarization – when the entire economy switched from the former currency, the Sucre, to the US Dollar leading to high degrees of uncertainty;
• Eruption of the Pichincha volcano, closing the Quito airport;
• Several popular “invasions” or demonstrations in Quito, with rural people streaming into the city, some leading to the overthrow of the government, others resulting in the burning down of the country’s tax agency headquarters;
• A triumvirate – where a president was run out of the country, to be replaced by a short-lived presidency simultaneously held by three co-presidents;
• Fishermen’s strikes in Galapagos, blocking the main road in Santa Cruz, and access to the local docks…

Never, in any of these situations, were any of our guests targeted.   In the worst-case scenario, our guests may have had to spend a night in a hotel closer to the airport instead of in the city – to avoid any transport delays on their way to Galapagos.   Never did any of our guests (or any other visitor to the country, to our knowledge) feel threatened.

It has been our experience that such disruptions in the regular day to day life of Ecuadorians are typically very limited in scope, very short-lived, and never target visitors. 

Based on our 25 year experience in the country, and thanks to our good network of local contacts, it was clear to us that by the 10^th of January, things were a lot less serious than what the images in the media led us to believe.   We felt comfortable reassuring our guests that the risk level to them was very low (nothing is risk free of course) and we encouraged them not to cancel their trips.

Unfortunately, images broadcast on television and the internet fuelled an undue sense of panic. Even today, I’m seeing many questions on social media, wondering if it’s now safe to travel to Ecuador.   I respond that it has been as safe as it has always been.  

Niels Olsen - Minister for Tourism, Ecuador

During our recent 3.5 weeks in Ecuador, we asked hospitality workers and business representatives how the events had affected their business.  Almost all reported cancellations and a drop in sales.  The hotel we use in Quito (Mama Cuchara) was almost empty (26 rooms) – thankfully, our not-for-profit friend’s trip helped bring in business there (17 rooms for 2 nights) and most of our other guests will spend at least a night there.   The owner of the hotel asked if CNH Tours would be willing to speak with the Minister of Tourism (Niels Olsen) – a contact of his – and share our thoughts about the situation in Ecuador.  We spoke with the Minister and he sent a small team of videographers to capture our thoughts.    You can see the video here, on their Instagram account.   

 Mama Cuchara boutique hotel

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CNH Tours had the pleasure of chancing upon the ECOS Foundation sea turtle conservation project and our old friend, Ana Maria Loose, at Bachas Beach, Santa Cruz Island on February 28th, 2024.

ECOS is an Ecuadorian foundation formed in 2003 under guidance from Ecology Project International.  Based in Galapagos, ECOS educates for a more sustainable future.  Under the framework of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD), their programs generate knowledge, skills and promote personal and societal transformation. ECOS is Spanish for Education for Sustainable Communities.

One of the foundation’s keynote projects takes place during sea turtle nesting season which runs from January to May.  During this time, ECOS brings local junior high and high school students, 11 – 18 years of age, on a 3 day / 2 night camping visit to Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz Island, where the students learn about sea turtle conservation through observation of their egg laying, and protection of the egg laying sites.  The students then bring this knowledge back to their local beaches, such as Tortuga Bay Beach, where they educate visitors to recognize and protect local sea turtle nesting sites.

The program is supported by the Galapagos National Park Service, the Galapagos Biosecurity Agency, and the Ministry of Ecuador.

CNH Tours is a proud supporter of ECOS through the International Galapagos Travellers Conservation Fund.  As a member of IGTOA, we sit on the IGTOA board, contribute membership fees, and for each and every one of our guests, CNH Tours contributes to the IGTOA Traveller Conservation Fund.

In February 2024, the board of IGTOA selected ECOS Foundation, among many Galapagos-based organizations, to support through the IGTOA Traveller Conservation Fund.

ECOS Foundation is a champion for conserving our collective natural world heritage for future generations. 

CNH Tours Co-Owner, and International Galapagos Tour Operators Association member, Heather Blenkiron (middle, with stripey dress) with students from Santa Cruz Island learning about the conservation of sea turtles at Bachas Beach, Santa Cruz Island.

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[Bolivar Channel, Western Isabela Island - Galapagos]

(updated 17 March 2024)

In its meeting this past Saturday, the authority in charge of such things voted to increase the Galapagos national park entrance fee from $100 to $200 for foreigners, and from $7 to $30 for Ecuadorians.   

This has been a very long time coming.  The effective cost of entering the park has not changed since the late 1980s (at that time, there were 3 elements to the fee, adding up to $100 - these were combined into a single fee in 1998).   

Back in the 1990's, $100 represented up to 10% of the cost of a budget 8 day cruise in Galapagos.  Today, given that the price of cruise has increased regularly over the intervening period, $100 represents approximately only 2% of such an expense.  Visitors to the islands are leaving significantly more in tips than they leave with the authorities in charge of managing the park.

CNH Tours, through its membership in the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA), has been actively advocating for an increase in the entrance fee.  IGTOA canvassed its members in 2017 and concluded that an entrace fee of $300 would be acceptable. The authorities have decided to raise it to $200 - which we find reasonable.  

We're pleased to see this development. It has been very difficult to have the authority in charge to pass such a change.  Of the 9 votes, 5 voted for the fee increase, 4 against.   Those who voted against were the 4 local municipal representatives.  Many locals fear that an increase in the fee will discourange budget travellers.  These travellers all choose the "land-based" model of tourism in Galapagos, staying in low-end hotels, spending in low-end eateries, and often engaging only in free activities, leaving very little money behind after their visit, yet requiring a disproportionate amount of municipal and other services.  

The "land-based" vs "ship-based" debate has been going on for years.   Recent numbers show that about 260,000 land-based visitors came to Galapagos last year (up from about zero 25 years ago), vs. 70,000 ship-based visitors (no significant difference from 25 years ago).  While the cruise ship fleet capacity has been striclty capped for 25 years, there is no such restriction on the number of visitors than can come to Galapagos on a land-based visitor model. 

Galapagos is unique on the planet and its ecosystems are very vulnerable to the introduction and dispersal of alien invasive species.  These species arrive thanks to the movement of people and goods from the mainland.  Limiting the number of visitors to the islands is a critical 1st step in trying to manage this risk.

While we believe that the increase will not affect visitor numbers, it is at least a sign that the authorities are starting to recognize the problem of overtourism in Galapagos.  UNESCO's intergovernmental World Heritage Committee first raised this concern in 2017.  Until as recently as last year, the minister of tourism was celebrating "record numbers of visitors in Galapagos".   While in Galapagos in February / March, we had the chance to speak with the minister (Niels Olsen) and we were pleased to see that he has made a 180 degree turn in his attitude.  

Thankfully, the ship-based visitor experience has not changed significantly over the years. Access to visitor sites is strictly regulated, and only a set number of visitors are permitted to disembark at any given time.  

What does this mean for CNH Tours guests who have already booked their trip?

If your trip has you arriving in Galapagos on the 1st of August 2024 or beyond, the new fee will apply to you.  There are two scenarios:

1. If the park fee was included in your invoice, either as a separate line item, or as part of the cruise price, we will need to invoice you for the difference.
2. If the park fee was not included in your invoice or as part of the cruise price (you are expected to pay on arrival in Galapagos), we will not be invoicing you for the difference, but you will need to come prepared on arrival in Galapagos with the proper amount in cash.  

We copy-paste the press released published yesterday (Google Translated from Spanish) below:

In an extraordinary meeting, this February 24, 2024, with five votes in favor and four against, the Plenary Session of the Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos approved the update of the income rate for conservation of protected areas in the archipelago. The figure had not been modified in the last 26 years.

 The collegiate body is made up of the highest authorities of the institutions: Governing Council of the Special Regime of Galapagos; Municipal GAD of San Cristóbal, Isabela and Santa Cruz; National Planning Secretariat; Ministries of: Agriculture and Livestock; Environment, Water and Ecological Transition and Tourism. A representative of the parish GAD also participates. 

The decision responds to the objectives of promoting a tourism model in accordance with the conservation actions already undertaken, generating citizen benefits and stabilizing the number of tourists who come to the island province. Thus, the cost to enter the protected areas in Galapagos will be USD 30 (thirty) for nationals and USD 200 (two hundred) for foreigners. The application of the new rate will take place after six months. 

According to the “Conservation Report on Properties Inscribed on the World Heritage List” issued by UNESCO, it is a priority to stabilize the growth in tourism volume to maintain the well-being of both the ecosystem and the inhabitants of Galapagos. The objective is to promote tourism focused on sustainability and the ability to boost the local economy, thanks to the natural wonders that the islands offer, unique in the world. 

On the other hand, it seeks to strengthen the management of decentralized autonomous governments, responsible for the provision and efficient administration of water services, environmental sanitation, waste, tourist facilities, urban fauna management, among others, capable of generating more benefits for Galapagos citizens in terms of conservation and economic development. 

To update the rate, length of stay, age, disability condition, tourism model, nationality or legal residence in the country was demonstrated, in accordance with article 29 of the Organic Law of the Special Regime of the province of Galapagos (LOREG). 

The National Government promotes environmental, tourist and economic management focused on motivating development and balance in the Islands, recognized by UNESCO as a Natural Heritage of Humanity (1978) and a Biosphere Reserve (1984).

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Report from Ecuador

February 20, 2024

CNH Tours owners, Marc Patry and Heather Blenkiron, are currently in Ecuador to lead a not-for-profit fundraising Galapagos cruise on the M/V Evolution.  While in the country, they are also spending some time visiting Quito, the Cloud Forest and Yasuni National Park in the Amazon basin, from where they are writing this missive. 

Today we received an update from the Ministry of Tourism concerning the Ecuadorian State of Emergency and want to share it with you, our former, current and potential guests:

The state of emergency, supported unanimously by Ecuadorians, has been a testament to our collective determination to restore peace to our country. A tangible outcome of this effort was witnessed during the recent Carnival holiday, which reduced over 50% in security incidents compared to the previous year. We have not experienced any security incidents affecting tourists, and we have successfully kept 100% of all routes and flights at our airports operational.

The arrivals to the Galapagos in January 2024 experienced a minimal decrease of just 3% compared to the previous year. All these measures are indicative of our steadfast resolve to bring peace back to the nation, affirming that life in Ecuador is already unfolding normally.

We invite you to see for yourselves, share in our traditions, explore our landscapes, and enjoy the hospitality that defines us.

For more details and updates, follow our official channels on Twitter @TurismoEc and on  Facebook at /MinisterioTurismoEcuador.

With gratitude and hope,

Date: February 20, 2024

Niels Olsen Peet

Minister of Tourism of Ecuador

Like our guests, we have been concerned about recent events in Ecuador.  We have taken all of the precautions we have recommended to our guests (private land transfers, guided visits, only using known taxis (recommended by our hotel).

From our moment of first arrival into Ecuador in the early hours of February 15^th, all has gone very smoothly with no concerns whatsoever. 

Since January 9^th, CNH Tours has hosted 92 guests in Ecuador - on the mainland, in the cloud forest, the Amazon, Quito and Galapagos. Not one has reported any concerns over safety.   

We met with our continental team on February 18^th at Mama Cuchara hotel (our go-to accommodations in Quito). 

Left to right: Our land services expert, Mercedes Murguetio; Quito Active Galapagos Logistics, Adriana Vallejos Yar; CNH Tours Co-Owner, Heather Blenkiron; Guayaquil Logistics, Maybell Galvez.

Napo River port at Coca, in the Amazon basin. Armed forces personnel are circulating, giving folks a sense of security.  

All guests returning from their "Active Galapagos" trips to Galapagos with us receive an automatic email inviting them to provide some feedback on their recent experience.  Usually, this is a useful way to do some "quality control" on the trip. But almost invariably, there is very little in the feedback that calls for improvements!  Here, Lee Ann Coughlin from New Hampshire (she was on our Anemone departure - 21 Jan - 1st Feb).  She did indicate that 2 cabins had malfunctioning air conditioning units.  We contacted the owner upon learning this, and within 30 minutes, we received a response indicating that the units had been repaired during the trip.  

Below are Lee Ann's unedited responses to our survey questions: 


Trip Overview document improvements?  If you wish, please let us know how could CNH Tours improve its "Trip Overview Document"

The AXUS portal was brilliant! All of the information you could possibly need was right there, well organized and thorough.

Quito City day tour suggestions We welcome your thoughts on the city tour / comments on your guide.

Juan Paul was a tremendous guide! We went everywhere and saw everything! We especially liked the chocolate tasting and the cable car ride. I can't say enough about Juan Paul, he is so enthusiastic about the city and a very nice guy!

Top of the world swing set - hung from the clouds? Accessible via the cable car 

Airport transfers (to and from Galapagos)  For those of you who requested private transfers:  If you had any problems, or if you have any suggestions for improvements on how the transfers to the airports were carried out, please share them with us here.

The transfers were wonderful, as were the guides who met us at the airport. We felt so taken care of, we never had a moment of "where do we go, what do we do". Everything was so well planned for us.

Tony Sotomayor - always at the airport to provide assistance

Comments for / about the naturalist guide Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the guide's performance. (optional)

Jimmy must be one of the best guides in the Galapagos! He was kind, patient, enthusiastic, funny and extremely knowledgeable. When dolphins were spotted we all jumped in dinghy's and swam with the dolphins. An extraordinary experience! He made sure every guest on the boat had a great time.

The indefatigable Jimmy Patiño

Comments about the crew Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the crew's performance (optional)

We found the crew to be gracious, kind and hard working. Our dinghy drivers, Ricardo and Roberto helped me on and off the dinghy, and in and out of the kayaks, always with a smile. Fredo was a great bartender and waiter and the chef was brilliant.

Over-the-top dedication:  Samba crew

Comments on the meals Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the dining experience (optional)

The meals blew us away! Always different, fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, quality meats, fish, chicken. Freshly made snacks and appetizers waiting when you came in from snorkeling. And dessert at lunch and dinner!

Delicious and nutritious

Comments on off-ship excursions  Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism on the off ship excursions (optional)

The excursions were top notch! Jimmy taught us so much so much about the Galapagos. Every one of our expectations were met.

Making like a marine iguana

Comments on the days in Puerto Ayora Please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism of the time in Puerto Ayora (optional)

Our time in Puerto Ayora was made special by our guide Nathalie. We learned so much about life in the Galapagos and Nathalie is charming and fun! We especially liked the visit to a small rural coffee farm.

Highland Galapagos coffee

Puerto Ayora Hotel comments  If you stayed at the hotel in Galapagos post cruise, please share with us any positive comments, or constructive criticism (rooms, staff, cleanliness, buffet breakfast... - optional).  What did they do best?  What low hanging fruit is there in terms of improvements to be made?

The Ikala was extremely clean, the rooms are very large, and the staff was some of the nicest we have encountered in our travels. The included breakfast was also wonderful.

Puerto Ayora lodgings - getting your land legs back here is as good as it gets

Quotable comments on your trip? Please feel free to leave any "quotable comments / sound bites" we could eventually use on our website.

A trip of a lifetime! Just pack your bags and go, Heather and her team have taken care of all the details. The trip on the Samba with the guide and the wonderful crew will take your breathe away.

A week ago, people around the world started hearing about troubles in Ecuador, sparked by the prison escape of a drug lord. Images of armed goons (they didn’t give the impression they were from an organized and disciplined group) taking over a live TV broadcast were seen.   News that prison guards were being held hostage and that bomb threats were being made was shared widely, along with images of chaos in Guayaquil, a large port city.  

In response, the newly elected president, Daniel Noboa, imposed an 11PM – 5AM curfew throughout the country (expiring on 8 March).  With full support of the national assembly, he also imposed a national state of emergency for the weekend of 13-14 January only, giving extra powers to the military and to police to round up the suspects.

Today, we learn that all prison guard hostages have been released, prisons are back in government control and over 1,000 arrests of drug gang members have been made.  Over the past few days, we have heard from various government sources, and from our own CNH Tours colleagues in Quito, Guayaquil and Galapagos that things have returned to normal. Today, January 15, 2024, the Mayor of Guayaquil announced that normal activities (with a strong army presence) have resumed in Guayaquil.

To be sure, there is increased police / military presence in key places (airports, government buildings).

The country is experiencing calm as stores reopen, employees return to their offices, and visitation returns to the historic centre of Quito (with the exception of the central square in front of the Presidential Palace, which remains closed). 

The Guayaquil and Quito Airports are operating normally.  Members of the army are checking all cars entering the security perimeter of the airport so please allow for an extra 20 – 30 minutes to your normal travel time to allow for your vehicle to be inspected.

International arrival and departure flights are operating normally (with the exception of issues relating to winter storms and Boeing jets grounded for technical concerns).

Galapagos a refuelling station for drug shipments?

Today we saw stories in the press about Galapagos being the fuelling station for drug shipments, as traffickers move their product from South America to North America by sailing far out at sea, south, then west of the Galapagos archipelago and then northwards – staying away from government patrols which tend to monitor waters closer to shore (though the US Coast Guard does carry out monitoring patrols in international waters around the archipelago - see this story).  Needing to refuel, there has been some collusion between local fishermen and the drug dealers. Fishermen buy fuel purportedly for their operations and head out to sea, far from the regular monitoring patrols of the navy / coast guard, meet up with the dealers and make their trade.  

The authorities have been capturing such drug dealing ships for years, but apparently there is more and more such traffic beyond the boundaries of the Galapagos marine reserve.   A record 25 tons of cocaine were seized from such ships in 2023 according to the Ecuadorian navy (up from 1 ton in 2019).  These activities do not intersect with those of expedition cruise ships, which navigate well within the marine reserve waters.  

Vote of confidence

While there is no such thing as zero-risk travel, at CNH Tours, we are confident that travel within Ecuador and the Galapagos islands is as low risk as it was before these recent events. While we recognize that our guests first need to be comfortable in their own decision to travel and that they need to be the final arbiters in the matter, we hope to reassure them that there is no longer any cause for increased concern following last week’s events. 

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On January 8, 2024, the Government of Ecuador implemented a 60 day nationwide curfew to reestablish order in the country and confront those threatening the stability of the territory. The curfew is in in effect between 11pm and 5am. Only travellers with proof of a national or international flight are permitted to travel on the roads during the curfew. Between 5AM and 11PM, there are no restrictions to movement and people can go about their regular affairs unhindered. 

Furthermore, on January 9, 2024, the Government of Ecuador declared a nationwide state of “internal armed conflict” to allow security forces to better respond to a sharp increase in gang violence across the country, including in Guayaquil and Quito. These measures are not expected to affect daily life in Ecuador.

 The Ecuadorian Minister of Tourism confirmed that same day: 

• Movement to and from the airport is permitted.
• Airports are operating normally
• Additional security measures have been implemented at terminals to ensure the safety of travellers
• Security has been strategically bolstered with increased police and military presence.
• There is no prohibition on entry, and no incidents of violence in the main tourist destinations in Ecuador:
  • The Galapagos Islands
  • The Amazon region
  • National Parks

Of course, the safety of our guests is always paramount and should we have any reason to believe there is a serious risk to that, we will respond accordingly. 

Our tours are continuing to run regularly (we have guests on ships right now, and others embarking this coming week).  For those who have their arrival or departure flights during the curfew, they will be required to present a printed copy of the air ticket or any other travel documents. 

We recommend that all travellers to Ecuador consider private land transfers at this time to maximize their security in-country. We can help make those arrangements.  

With the help of our team / colleagues / friends on the ground in Quito (Mercedes, Tannya, Adriana, Tony at the airport), Guayaquil (Maybel) and Galapagos (Daniela, Juan and others) we are keeping a close eye on developments.  Based on our 25 years of experience, during which time we have seen many such events come and go, we have no reason to believe this will affect your trip.  

We’ll keep you posted should there be any developments we feel might be worth noting.  

 www.cnhtours.com

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Antarctica:  Our expert has worked for 18 seasons in the region

Okavango / Kalahari / Vic Falls: Designed and led by Dr. Karen Ross, National Geographic's "Champion of the Okavango"

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Back, way back in 2001 somewhere in Puerto Ayora, the eminence grise* of the Galapagos guiding community Greg Estes and CNH Tours owners Marc & Heather (before CNH Tours existed...) were talking over lunch on a hot, steamy March day about "the ideal Galapagos expedition cruise".  We were working at the Darwin Station at the time and had somehow crossed paths with Greg a couple of years earlier.  He impressed us with his knowledge, focus and leadership type personality. We had hired him to lead our “Galapagos Amigos” not-for-profit cruise set up for our friends, shortly after our arrival in Galapagos.

"Galapagos Amigos" trip in 2000.  Marc Patry, Heather Blenkiron (and Émile) circled

Greg was about 40 at the time and had been guiding already for several years, while we were just contemplating getting into chartering ships for Galapagos expedition cruises on a more regular basis.   

"You know", Greg said, "I really feel sorry when folks get on a ship whose crew and naturalist guide take a lackadaisical approach to visiting the islands – what a missed opportunity".  He went on to explain that in too many cases, the ship experience was being managed like a holiday, and not an expedition. “The guide has guests get up at 7AM, they have breakfast, and they are off by 8AM on their first outing of the day.  That’s two lost hours of daylight – and two of the best hours for wildlife in Galapagos”.  For Greg (and we agree), visiting Galapagos should be approached as a rare privilege – one that should not be approached nonchalantly.  “And then the naturalist guide rushes through a trail so that he can let them lounge on a beach”.

Greg Estes at the Galapagos "Post Office", Floreana Island (back in 2000) 

“You only have a short time here – and there is so much to be exposed to, to experience, to see, hear, feel and witness” he added. We agreed again. It was during that conversation that the term “Active Galapagos” came up. What if we organized trips that were designed for people who were keen to get the most “Galapagos” out of their time in the islands? What if we told them this trip would be active  – that we’d get them up at the crack of dawn (or even earlier…) to ensure they got to see the wildlife at its most active?  What if we took our time on the shore excursions, spending 1.5 hours on a 1-mile (1.6km) hike, stopping frequently to just take it all in? What if we took full advantage of all the snorkeling/kayaking opportunities? 

It was that discussion that led us to develop the “Active Galapagos” trip.  CNH Tours first chartered the 16 guest Lobo de Mar for our trips – but soon the ship dumped us in exchange for a large contract with a big international travel company.  We had to find another ship.  It’s no longer clear how we came across the 14 guest Samba – but the fit was perfect.  Locally owned and operated, the Samba is 100% “on-board” with the Active Galapagos philosophy.   We started with 4 charters / year, but quickly realized that the desire to get the most out of a Galaagos trip was widespread.  We added more and more departures and now, we run between 20-24 Active Galapagos charters / year. 

Samba anchored off Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island

To be sure we stay on top of things, we survey all of our returning guests over a comprehensive list of indicators, measuring their satisfaction with various aspects of the trip. Guests rate their experience on a 1-5 scale. Using a simple algorithm, we translated that into a percentage rating.  We proudly present the results below:

CNH Tours Active Galapagos trip report card

Clearly, our guests are very satisfied with their trip - and embarrassingly, it seems one of the indicators that has the greatest room for improvement is our own responsiveness (only 94.6% satisfaction rate...). 

Post Samba time in Galapagos receives the lowest score at 83.2% (still very good after all) - that refers to the two (optional) extra nights we offer to our guests, giving them the time to get their land legs back and enjoy some down time after their full days on board. We are happy to give people a chance to get to know what life is like for those living in Galapagos - and these 2 days do just that.  Perhaps for some, the shock of disembarking from a cozy small ship, after having sailed to the remote corners of the archipelago, and to be re-introduced to a busy urban area is a let-down?  

* With his wife Thalia Grant, Greg is the co-author of the book: "Darwin in Galapagos: Footsteps to a New World" in which they publish the results of their extensive work retracing Darwin's day to day travels in Galapagos.

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Fireworks were banned in Galapagos in 2018 over concerns that the loud noises were detrimental to wildlife (that makes sense to us). However, the text of the regulations allowed for the opiton of "soundless" fireworks. This ambiguity has led to a major polemic going on in the islands these days.

The town of Puerto Ayora organized fireworks on new year's eve, despite not having received the authorization of the police, which we presume was a requirement. While many in Galapagos enjoy fireworks, a large portion of residents recognize that the islands should do without them, given their special status.

New Year's eve fireworks in Puerto Ayora on 31 Dec '23

The fireworks display led to major criticism on behalf of those that thought they were banned.  In response to the growing criticism, a press conference was held on 3 January, with the park director and the head of the Galapagos regional government, to clarify the situation. The director (Juan Chavez, an old work colleague of ours when we was working in the islands) clearly indicated that the park was against all forms of fireworks, even those considered "silent" - and he explained that silent ones still make a lot of noise and emit a lot of smoke.

Jan. 6 press conference - Juan Chavez (right) makes his case. President of the regional government Edwin Altamirano, and a government technician.

Things got more heated the following days, and on Saturday 6 January, he was fired from his job. We can only presume that this was in response to pressure from proponents of fireworks, mostly local municipal politicians.

This is an unfortunate development. Many residents have recognized that a unique Galapagos island culture needs to evolve to ensure that the human presence in the islands is in tune with the special status of Galapagos. A lot of effort has gone into promoting this change. The fireworks case we are seeing now is an illustration of the challenges they face.

Over the years, the development of an island culture in tune with its environment has been a growing theme.  Practices such as keeping domestic animals such as cats and dogs are considered not in line with an island culture.  These are not native to Galapagos and prone to going feral and preying on native species.  They can also carry diseases that could be transmitted to wildlife (the very contagious and deadly canine distemper can be transmitted to sea lions for example). But banning pets among a growing population is not as simple as publishing a new decree.  

There have been some successes.  CNH Tours is involved in promoting local artists for example, and we hire a local group of musicians who sing songs about Galapagos life from time to time.  There are local small environmental NGOs that focus on instilling a sense of Galapagos pride and culture among children. 

CNH Tours contributes $10/guest to the Intenational Galapagos Tour Operators' Association - which in turn supports the development of a local island culture.  ECOS is one such recipient of IGTOA support.

This is a developing story. There is a lot of pressure on the part of residents and conservation organizations to re-instate the director. We'll see what happens. If you are traveling to the island in the coming days or weeks you might want to ask any locals you meet what they think about this situation. That should start an interesting conversation.

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